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So after having the chain and clutch lever adjusted by Honda, these past few months my clutch still seems to not work properly, its clunky changing gears, sometimes it slips causing me to almost **** myself, I kindaaa feel lower acceleration, and cuts transmission for a second sometimes when going from 1rst gear to 2nd gear.

I believe the clutch is worn, wear that accelerated from the first year and a half that I owned the bike and had the clutch lever wrongly adjusted causing the clutch to either not engage or not disengage completely.

So with this in mind, I believe I might need a clutch replacement, but first what should I inspect when I open the clutch? What wear should I look for on the plates, steels, springs, basket and bearings? And ultimately do you think ill be able to replace only the friction plates and maybe steels without issue if the rest don't present major wear? Also can anyone fin the torque nM for the basket bolts and does the middle bolt need removing or is it only the 5 basket ones.

Last question, anyone who has done this or gone through this before, any tips or help you can give are much appreciated!

Thanks and sorry for so many questions!

(cbr 250r 2011 non abs)
 

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anyone who has done this or gone through this before, any tips or help you can give are much appreciated!
Yes...I opened the right engine case, checked the clutch, and found that the clutch is in good condition, and that the pads are at 50% time life. Link to my post

You can know what the condition of the pads, without opened the right engine case, by two options (But first check that the cable is OK and the lever is adjusted correctly):
  • (This is what you have already done) If under load the engine revs up suddenly, it means the clutch is slipping. Or when there is difficulty changing gears.
  • Test pads by the condition of the two adjusting mechanisms. The pictures below are with a new cable, and pads at 50% (for Reference):
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do you think ill be able to replace only the friction plates and maybe steels without issue
When the case is open, it's a good opportunity to take a look and see how good are the rest of the assemblies. You cleaning the strainer filter. And after general checking then you have to decide what to replace (and buy). If there are no surprises, it is recommended to buy in advanced the set: friction pads, metal discs, and springs.
But you also need to order in advanced the paper gasket, and some 3 types of O-rings. This is at a minimum.

Is your water pump leaking? Because I opened the cover to fix the coolant pump whose seals collapsed.
it only the 5 basket ones.
YES. BUT If it is necessary to replace parts of the axis of the basket, the bushing and the needle bearing, then in such a caseת yes, middle NUT need to remove.
any tips or help
This is a job that requires a lot of time, a lot of experience, knowledge, it is not recommended for amateur mechanics. See what I wrote in the forum lately here (link):
"the job of removing the right engine cover on a CBR250R(2013) is relatively complicated:
  • You need to drain both: the oil, and the coolant.
  • There is an issue with the clutch mechanism, and the spring. You have to keep the spring from falling into the engine, and then there is a problem of putting it back in place.
  • In the assembly there is an issue with the axis angle of the water pump.
  • In addition to the paper gasket, you need to replace 3 more O-Rings in three different sizes.
  • Draining the coolant is easy, but you mustn't forget to bleed air bubbles when refilling".
 

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As you've found out, clutch-lever adjustment is critical and it's difficult to get it just right.

Part of this is cable friction! To verify, disconnect both ends of cable. Then manually floss inner wire through entire length of travel to verify it slides smooth with no friction. Then swing handlebars fully to one side then other and hold cable-end near lever and manually floss inner wire again.

I've found having this cable-adapter really helps to spray in teflon-based lube from spray-can. Makes clutch super responsive with much better feel.


If you do end up replacing clutch, make sure you get stiffer performance springs from Barnett, EBC, etc
 

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I've found having this cable-adapter really helps to spray in teflon-based lube from spray-can. Makes clutch super responsive with much better feel.
Yes, you always have to start with the simple and cheap things:
  • So of course check Clutch adjustment.
  • and check that the lever and the cable are lubricated and grease as required.
  • And also check the cable for damage.
The cable may need lubrication, but maybe it is already rusty? Maybe it has torn some threads?...Therefore you can also consider replacing the cable.
I believe the clutch is worn,
A torn and rusty cable also interferes with the proper functioning of the clutch. Replace this cable before opening the cover.
 

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I've found having this cable-adapter really helps to spray in teflon-based lube from spray-can. Makes clutch super responsive with much better feel.

Amazon.com: FLYPIG Cable Lube Luber Lubricator Lubricant tool for Motorcycle Scooter Bike : Automotive
BUT The special tool is only suitable for generic cables. It is not suitable for use with the original Honda clutch cable, because the end adapters of the original cable interfere with the operation of the tools, so this tool cannot be used with them.
  • On one side (lever), the OEM cable is connected to a thick tube with a special bend.
  • On the other side (engine), the OEM cabel is connected to a special tube with a threads.
Automotive lighting Font Audio equipment Electronic instrument Gas

To oil & clean an original Honda cable, hang it vertically, drip oil into the inlet from above, move the inner cable up and down, and add more drops of oil like this. When a drop seeps in, put another drop...like this until the excess oil starts to drip from the bottom.
 
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So after having the chain and clutch lever adjusted by Honda, these past few months my clutch still seems to not work properly, its clunky changing gears, sometimes it slips causing me to almost **** myself, I kindaaa feel lower acceleration, and cuts transmission for a second sometimes when going from 1rst gear to 2nd gear.

I believe the clutch is worn, wear that accelerated from the first year and a half that I owned the bike and had the clutch lever wrongly adjusted causing the clutch to either not engage or not disengage completely.

So with this in mind, I believe I might need a clutch replacement, but first what should I inspect when I open the clutch? What wear should I look for on the plates, steels, springs, basket and bearings? And ultimately do you think ill be able to replace only the friction plates and maybe steels without issue if the rest don't present major wear? Also can anyone fin the torque nM for the basket bolts and does the middle bolt need removing or is it only the 5 basket ones.

Last question, anyone who has done this or gone through this before, any tips or help you can give are much appreciated!

Thanks and sorry for so many questions!

(cbr 250r 2011 non abs)
Clutch replacement is easy and relatively cheap, but your clutch would be slipping rather than changing your gears. I've heard this problem before and it sounds more like a bent shifter fork.
 

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Clutch replacement is easy
Not in CBR250R (2013) - Relatively
Clutch replacement... relatively cheap
Yes, usually when you buy spare parts directly from Thailand (Paying for regular shipping)
Or when you buying spare parts from AliExpress.
AND there are also other additional purchase options for purchasing parts that are not OEM, and from better quality than the original, and at a cheaper price.
but your clutch would be slipping rather than changing your gears.
This is what happens when the clutch does not separate properly, you press the gear shift lever, but the command "shift" is sometimes not fully "received". The fork does not go into place not because it is bent, but because the movement on the foot lever was not complete.
clutch lever wrongly adjusted causing the clutch to either not engage or not disengage completely...clutch lever wrongly adjusted causing the clutch to either not engage or not disengage completely.
Big Cahuna, according to the description of the problem, I suspect that there is a problem with the greasing of the lever and the cable. Maybe the cable is stuck due to sand or rust, maybe the cable is torn, and then the cable has a problem to transmitting the commands from the lever to the clutch!
Always start the simpler options. And that's what I suggested above, to check the cable first.
 
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So after having the chain and clutch lever adjusted by Honda, these past few months my clutch still seems to not work properly, its clunky changing gears, sometimes it slips causing me to almost **** myself, I kindaaa feel lower acceleration, and cuts transmission for a second sometimes when going from 1rst gear to 2nd gear.

I believe the clutch is worn, wear that accelerated from the first year and a half that I owned the bike and had the clutch lever wrongly adjusted causing the clutch to either not engage or not disengage completely.

So with this in mind, I believe I might need a clutch replacement, but first what should I inspect when I open the clutch? What wear should I look for on the plates, steels, springs, basket and bearings? And ultimately do you think ill be able to replace only the friction plates and maybe steels without issue if the rest don't present major wear? Also can anyone fin the torque nM for the basket bolts and does the middle bolt need removing or is it only the 5 basket ones.

Last question, anyone who has done this or gone through this before, any tips or help you can give are much appreciated!

Thanks and sorry for so many questions!

(cbr 250r 2011 non abs)
Report back when you discover the problem. There seem to be several theories as to what is wrong.
 
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