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Some feedback from doing my own First 600 mi Service.

Ride bike to warm up the oil.
Ride front tire up on 2 2x6 boards to make bile level when rear tire is on jack.
Make sure filter is facing correct direction when installing.
Don't over tighten cover bolts, feels like it could strip easily.
Flip drain plug washer over to crush in other direction.
Reused filter cover gasket. HOW OFTER SHOULD BE REPLACED?
Release coolant fan wires before trying to reposition fan/cooler to gain access to valve cover.
Valve cover was king of fun to wiggle out.
Intakes were .007 in. (.006 in. spec)
Exhaust were .010 in. (.011 in. spec)
Reused old valve cover gaskets, HOW OFTEN SHOULD BE REPLACED?
Pretty tight squeeze working on valve clearence. HOW DIFFICULT IS THE JOB TO CHANGE OUT ADJUSTMENT SHIMS?
Buttoned up motor and ran up to operating temp, no oil leaks, test ride fun!

Pretty easy job, nothing to be afraid of as long as you have a workshop manual.
 

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I changed my oil last week, and the guy who changed it at the first service had messed up the small gasket on the oil filter, what a sorry job they seem to do at the Honda shop where I live, so I am doing all of my own services from now on. In the owners manual it recommends changing the oil filter cover gasket and the drain plug sealing washer with each oil change. They are less than a dollar a piece so it's very inexpensive to change it with each oil change so I would recommend changing them every time.


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Your exhaust valve measurements are at the tight end of the allowed clearance. I typically replace the shim(s) when that occurs. You may want to check that again in 5K miles or before that if the bike doesn't start easily.

At least you guys don't have to remove the camshafts to change out shims. :)
 

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I was wondering about the valve adjustments, seems I had heard/read that you remove a bolt and the camshaft slides over or something?? Care to enlighten me how you adjust them?
Tony
 

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I can't, I'm riding an older 250 that requires removing the cams.
 

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My 1st oil change - topic for newbies

I messed up the oil filter gasket, too! It ended up inside the oil filter. It took a pen to fish it out of the housing and reinstall.

My 12 mm generic copper crush washer did not fit my oil plug bolt, by the way. It took a second trip to the dealer, where I learned that only the Honda 12mm AL (12.3 mm actually) crush washers fits the bolt. When I left my dealer, I felt like I was the first CBR250r to have ever done his own oil change. There is an old timers there behind the parts' counter who did not share any insight into this matter.

By the way, the oil filter housing gasket is not that cheap. My dealer charged me $5.00 for it, but I didn't use it this time. I figure that this item can be replaced every other oil change. And, it looks like the crush washer can have a long life, too!

By the way, my oil plug bolt was not equipped with a crush washer. I swear on that statement! It was a naked bolt onto the housing when I removed it. I checked the oil pan, which contained nothing but oil!

Strange!

I haven't checked the valves yet, but it seems that a simple check of the valve clearances is not that hard. The challenge comes with making adjustments to clearances by swapping out shims. I don't think that my handicapper fingers ( wrist injury last year severed my median nerve) are nimble enough for that task. Out to the dealer for adjustment when that day comes!

GaryW.
 

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HOW DIFFICULT IS THE JOB TO CHANGE OUT ADJUSTMENT SHIMS?
In the valve adjustment process has some challenges:
1. I do not know how it is possible to complete the job of replacing shims with a fuel tank lifted up. In my opinion the fuel tank must be fully out. Maybe lifted up the fuel tank is good for the test. For replacement shims (adjustment), in my opinion, it must be removed.
2. Even when opening another window from above (in addition to the window opened by moving the radiator down), it is still very crowded there, and the viewing angles are uncomfortable.
3. The horror of the shims that can fall into the engine is real and really scary.
4. Then measure the old shims, doing some calculations, and go to buy a new shims. Me engine stays open like this for a week (I covered it with nylon).
5. The stage of removing the old shims and inserting the new back into place, is a critical stage in the matter of panic that I mentioned in section 3.
6. First of all you have to open the covers of the rocking-axis, it does not open, then more torque, and at the end it opens as if something was broken, what luck that nothing is broken. The covers were really tight !!!
7. After the new shims were put in place the rocking must be returned to their axis, and again need a lot of patience, technique. And also need a copper hook I made from electrical wire, to lift the rocking towards the axis.
8. Removing the valve cover requires applying force to the radiator and care must be taken not to cause damage, the window is really small, and should be maneuvered the cover when the space is small.
9. At the end, when putting the valve cover back in place, remember to put glue on the the two arches at the top of the engine, and the gasket falls off the cover, and falls again, and there is no room to insert a finger to fix it, good technique helps, but till I was learning the technique the job already done.

I'm not in the business of discouraging anyone, just take a tons of patience and it's will be okay.
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