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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dear friends, I too fell into the trap and bought a Quality Coolant That Is Not suitable for our CBR250R motorcycle, and not suitable for motorcycles at all. I am from the old generation, in my time anyone who wanted to invest in a quality coolant bought a special green liquid, and did not settle for ordinary Distilled-Water (and extra thrifty people filled tap water).
Gentlemen, the OLD G11 standard based on the active ingredient SILICATE is not suitable for motorcycle engines that made of aluminum(Like our CBR250R), with a radiator that is also made of aluminum.
For CBR250R, the G12 standard, or G12 +, is suitable, and G13 is also just that G13 is more expensive.

According to the Honda manufacturer's specification:
The active substance should be of the Ethylene Glycol type, and preferably in a concentration of 50% active ingredient compared to distilled water.
Liquid Green Fluid Drink Household supply


ALPINE:
Font Advertising Paper Document Signage


Putoline (LINK):
Skyscraper Building World Blue Azure
Font Electric blue Parallel Rectangle Publication
Font Rectangle Commemorative plaque Circle Event


SINTEC - That one Below(The green) is NOT suitable for motorcycles:
Font Advertising Label Circle

The SINTEC RED is GOOD(LINK):
Household supply Font Liquid Fluid Circle
Font Material property Poster Brand Logo


And there is also a short video I made about draining coolant:

Link to the old post(2012):
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
colour of dye used in coolants has nothing to do with corrosion-inhibitor additive package. Read up on coolant types here: Engine Coolant Basics
YES. I did not buy the wrong liquid because of the green color, I bought because I intended to buy a professional coolant (compared to: distilled water, or tap water), I did not know there was interest with an aluminum motor or radiator.

The paint is just a pigment that manufacturers add to differentiate coolants from the same company that are different types of active ingredients (Different properties, for example G11, G12, G13). There is no standard for the color of the liquid and every manufacturer can choose a color as he pleases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I just picked up a 2 qt. bottle of Coolanol Motorcycle & ATV Coolant at my local bike shop for $15. Ethanol, pre-mixed, easy-peasy.
Yes, not a complicated maintenance job, just I did not know there is a special interest with aluminum, I thought it was a professional coolant, more expensive more better, compared to, distilled water, or tap water.
So yes, the coolant should be from Good Qualit, and include in its specifications at least one of the following:
  • "Suitable for Motorcycles"
  • "Suitable for aluminum engine"
  • "Based on Ethylene Glycol"
  • "On an Organic basis"
  • "G12 or G12+ standard"
Usually at least two of them appear on the coolant packaging. And of course the percentage of the active ingredient, and if you need to mix in Distilled-Water, or the ingredient is Ready-To-Use (I bought a ready-to-use coolant).
 

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Thanks for the insight, Tamir.

I have been taught not to mix different colors of coolant for cars, because the coolant might clump up. I assume this goes for motorcycles as well.

My coolant level is low and I do not know what kind of coolant is on it. Should I just drain it and fill it with new coolant, or is it safe to fill it up with some motorcycle coolant of another color/kind?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the insight, Tamir.

I have been taught not to mix different colors of coolant for cars, because the coolant might clump up. I assume this goes for motorcycles as well.

My coolant level is low and I do not know what kind of coolant is on it. Should I just drain it and fill it with new coolant, or is it safe to fill it up with some motorcycle coolant of another color/kind?
Hi and Thanks

I think the important question right now is at what rate are you losing coolant?
If at a high rate please go into the garage and take care of it right now, and they will already replace coolant fluid and also fix the leak. If the fluid loss is at a low rate this is not a problem, just keep following to see that it is stable.

To your question: Level filling is done to the RADIATOR RESERVE TANK 19110-KYJ-900).
It is not a liquid that immediately enters to the engine cooling system. This is a small amount that merges into the whole liquid, so even ordinary water will currently be able to give you a good temporary solution.
Besides, there are two types of coolant liquids, and the Ethylene Glycol liquid to the best of my knowledge does not get along well with the organic liquid?(Maybe the opposite?). Most of the organic is colored yellow, but I understand there is no binding standard for the coolant colors. As in the case of small amount of ordinary water, even in the case of another unsuitable liquid, it is fine when it comes to a temporary solution. When replacing the liquid in the system the mechanic rinsing the system with distilled water to ensure that there is no mixing of unsuitable liquid substances, and it's also good for general system cleaning.
 

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Thank you. My coolant level is not critically low and it is not leaking rapidly. I wish to do the maintenance myself, and I want to drain my coolant, flush the cooling system and swap the hoses. However, there is one thing that concerns me.

Since I do not know what kind of coolant is in my bike (other than it being green), I want to flush the cooling system. From my research, I’ve found that I must drain it and then I can flush it by running clean tap water through the radiator filler neck, until clean water comes out of the cooling system drain bolt. Then drain and flush the reservoir.

Fair enough. But, wouldn’t there still be coolant in the water jacket, that won’t be drained? Coolant goes from the water jacket in the engine, up to and through the radiator, down to the water pump, into the water jacket and so on. Draining and flushing the coolant the way I’ve described (as also described in the Haynes manual, chapter 1, pages 28 to 32), won’t there be old coolant in the water jacket and in the radiator hoses on the bike’s left side?

In short, my concern is, will draining the coolant, as described in the Haynes manual, drain all the coolant?

If not, which means there’s danger of two different coolants being mixed, even after flushing the coolant system as described in the Haynes manual, I will take the bike to a bike repair shop and let them handle it.

Sorry for stealing your thread, Tamir, I can make a new one if you wish.
 

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Yes, also drain coolant from block. Remove drain-bolt on outside of water-pump.
Note, colour doesn't indicate chemistry of coolant. You can have 2 compatible coolants, one green and one blue.

They are all have ethylene-glycol base, difference is in additives/anti-corrosion package. For these bikes, you want OAT chemistry which is silicate and borate free.

I've found good source for these coolants from your TOYOTA dealer. Their "super long life" coolant meets all requirements. Zerex Asian Vehicle, Recochem OEM Pink, Pentosin Pentofrost A4 coolants also works.

Avoid GM Dexcool! Also known as "DeathCool", which is responsible for GM going bankrupt while back. They faced hundreds of million$ in class-action lawsuits when DeathCool turned to gel inside cooling system. It would do this if there was trace amounts of any other coolant previously used, or if there was air in system. Not very good coolant at all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I do not know what kind of coolant is in my bike (other than it being green),
YES
It is impossible to know the coolant type by his color, because to my understanding and as I wrote above, there is no binding standard for coolant colors. You need to read the coolant specifications, and see that the code words I mentioned above are appearing in the specification.
wouldn’t there still be coolant in the water jacket, that won’t be drained?...
won’t there be old coolant in the water jacket and in the radiator hoses on the bike’s left side?...
YES & YES
Anyone who wants to get rid of close to 100% of the old coolant residues must fill the system with distilled water, and when the distilled water is inside the system the engine should be run for five to ten minutes. And then re-drain the distilled water, and if they come out unclean it is possible to repeat the process again as needed.
BUT
to me personally, and even for some good mechanics, this "full" rinsing method it seems unnecessary.
If not, which means there’s danger of two different coolants being mixed, even after flushing the coolant system as described in the Haynes manual,
There is NO danger, because the percentage of residue is negligible.
I will take the bike to a bike repair shop and let them handle it.
OK very good.
Sorry for stealing your thread, Tamir, I can make a new one if you wish.
TobyBryant I do not know if there is such a thing as "my thread", it is a platform for sharing, and your questions are good and directly related to the thread title, well done and thanks for your sharing!
 

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Thank you, both Danny and Tamir.

I will drain and flush my coolant, and possibly swap the radiator hoses.

is there anything else I should look for or swap while I’m at it? Can I reuse the clamps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
is there anything else I should look for or swap while I’m at it?
Yes#1, the forum, or any other anonymous web-based source, is not a substitute for:
1. A course in mechanics.
2. Purchase of the professional literature relevant to our model (Haynes' book, and Honda's book).

Yes#2,
  • Do not open the system when it is hot, this is a certain danger of serious injury. Only open the cup when the system is cold.
  • It is recommended to be equipped with a new sealing ring for the drain bolt.
    WASHER 90463-ML7-000 (LINK to Partzilla)
  • Check the pipes that are not cracked (and if so then need to replace them).
  • The coolant is a toxic liquid. Care should be taken with poisoning, and it should be collected in a closed container that should be brought to a collection point for hazardous materials.
  • Care should be taken not to over-tighten the drain bolt.
Can I reuse the clamps?
Yes, BUT do not tighten them too much. The guide indicates the degree of tightening relevant to fresh and new pipes, in old used one it's a matter of a mechanic's feeling.
 

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Thank you for your concern, Tamil. I have the Haynes manual, official service manual and of course the owner’s manual. I also have a couple torque wrenches and I’m waiting for a pressure tester to arrive, to make sure I don’t have any leaks after I replace the hoses and the coolant. I guess you don’t actually have to do this, but being inexperienced I want to make sure I do it properly

I will order a seal together with hoses, and I will try to find something to use for disposal of the old coolant.

Thank you for your help
 
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