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Measured everything again and now I'm coming up with .009s all around. I've never used a feeler gauge before and now understand that inserting it kinked will basically make the gap feel a thousandth smaller than it really is. So the exhausts are basically just under spec and the intakes are just over spec. I'm thinking just leave it as-is for now and check again at 3-4k. does that sound reasonable?
 

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Honda just called and said i could pick my bike up tommorrow.

Tech said all 4 valves were tight. replaced all shims. Hopefully they wrote down what the specs were.. Also said that might of been why bike was dying. I really dont think so but we will see.
 

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Someone said there is a shim kit you can buy?

Reading the service manual it doesn't seem to difficult to remove the gas tank. I have ABS so it looks like I'm going to have to do that.

My only concern is dropping a shim in the engine should I need to make an adjustment.

Ok so if I check the valves, they are in spec, I can just leave it? How will I prove to Honda that I checked them when no shims are needed?

Can you use the telescopic/flexible magnet to install the shims?

Also, the service manual does not give you instructions how to get to the cylinder head, or does it? I have the service manual and I did not see any instructions on how to get to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
If you take the tank and rubber water covering off, you won't have any trouble with dropping the shims. You can just let the radiator hang to come in from the front for measurement only. They are probably in spec until you get to 3,000 miles so won't need to pull the tank.
 

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Someone said there is a shim kit you can buy?

Reading the service manual it doesn't seem to difficult to remove the gas tank. I have ABS so it looks like I'm going to have to do that.

My only concern is dropping a shim in the engine should I need to make an adjustment.

Ok so if I check the valves, they are in spec, I can just leave it? How will I prove to Honda that I checked them when no shims are needed?

Can you use the telescopic/flexible magnet to install the shims?

Also, the service manual does not give you instructions how to get to the cylinder head, or does it? I have the service manual and I did not see any instructions on how to get to it.
It isn't difficult to take off the tank, but it will be time consuming. Make sure you note how the rubber sheet is placed. I recommend taking the tank off for the valve check and shim replacement just because you can really see what you are doing and how to get at the shims.

I wouldn't try putting the shims in from the side because you probably will drop them and it would be really frustrating. I don't know what it entails, but I imagine you will have to loosen some bolts and move arms.
 

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Yes I will be taking the tank off but I will do it at 3k miles IF the measurements are ok.

I need to know about this shim kit, does that make the process easier?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
How far are you from the dealer and do you have something else to drive while the bike is apart? You can just measure the valve clearance to find out if any need adjusting. If they do, take the shims to the dealer along with your digital micrometer to match up the replacements. You may even be able to swap the position of a couple of them so you may only need one or two. How much is a shim kit? $100? You may only ever use $10 worth.
 

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How far are you from the dealer and do you have something else to drive while the bike is apart? You can just measure the valve clearance to find out if any need adjusting. If they do, take the shims to the dealer along with your digital micrometer to match up the replacements. You may even be able to swap the position of a couple of them so you may only need one or two. How much is a shim kit? $100? You may only ever use $10 worth.
Yeah that makes sense. The dealer is only about 15 miles away.
 

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Hey guys I called my dealer and he said their are two shim 7.48 kits available for our bike, the hotbodies kit for $89.95 and the Wiseco kit for only $49.95.

I only have two close dealers and they will not "swap out" shims, they said they will only order the kit for me.

You can buy them off Amazon.

Amazon.com: 04-11 HONDA CRF250R: WISECO VALVE SHIM KIT 7.48mm: Automotive
 

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QUESTION: Do you have to depressurize the fuel system to remove the tank?

Also, what sealant do you recommend?
 

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Page 5-33 details fuel pressure relieving and 5-39 is how to remove the tank. Others have indicated it ins't ness. but it might be easier in the long run if your valves need adjusted.

For the clinder head cover see page 8-6. It reccommends Three bond 5211c, ss Ke45, 1027B, 1215 or equivlent @ Cylinder head semi-circular cut outs.

If you haven't read the procedure yet please do - it will save you alot of trouble later. Also get used to identifying things in that manual if you plan on continuing servicing your own equipment cause its more/less the same for all manuals.
 

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thanks lacarolus

yeah I read those items but just wandered is it was necessary to depresurize just to check the valves.

I'm hoping I don't need to adjust just yet like most on here. The dealers are telling me 3k miles it will most likely needs the adjustment.

Honestly, I don't mind paying someone but I look forward to the challenge of completing the job successfully.

You feel more connected to the bike when you work on it yourself. Soulful experience.
 

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Utilize that fancy service manual you have there. It answers both questions with approved methods/products.
DudeMan asked this question regarding fuel system depressurizing early today, on the DIY Oil Change thread. I answered his question, and gave him the S/M section and page number. I figured he had me on ignore, or that he maybe thought I was giving him bad info, as he is over here on this thread asking the same question. Didn't even bother checking section 5, page 33 for the info.

I don't know what to think about this guy anymore. For someone who claims to know a lot, he sure seems lost in many respects.
 

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I never took the tank off so can't help you there. I didn't use any sealer on anything or replace any gaskets. The rubber gaskets work well to use over and over again.
Technically you should replace the gasket and reseal with sealer-according to the manual. However in reality those gaskets can be used many times without issue. So I guess its up to dude to decide if he follows the manual and buys all the req replacement parts -or- reuses what is probaly ok to reuse.
 

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Technically you should replace the gasket and reseal with sealer-according to the manual. However in reality those gaskets can be used many times without issue. So I guess its up to dude to decide if he follows the manual and buys all the req replacement parts -or- reuses what is probaly ok to reuse.
Or just sprays everything down with plasti dip because it works great as a sealant too! And it looks fly yo!!
 

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