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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
So, I decided since the CBR250R is a bike aimed at beginners, a lot of new riders might want to know how to change their oil. I decided I'd supplement available information with a picture DIY.

It's really not too hard, takes only about 30 minutes to complete.

The only tools needed are:

12mm socket

8mm socket

5mm hex wrench

Torque wrench(some people don't use one, but I have one, so I use it. I'd rather not strip the oil drain bolt)



Along with this pick up a new oil filter, oil gasket, and crush washer. Costs less than $10.







You will also need new oil and a small funnel.

I am using Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 semi-synthetic motor oil.



Now onto the oil change....

Warm up the bike by riding it so that the oil flows out quickly.

Remove the oil filler cap, located on the right of the bike.



Locate the engine oil drain bolt and loosen it. It is a 12mm bolt. Quickly remove it so that you don't get oil all over yourself.




While that is draining out, remove the right lower fairing bolt. It is a 5mm hex bolt. Behind it is the oil filter.



I didn't remove the middle fairing. I just pried back the right lower fairing. It doesn't give you too much room, but it is enough to sneak out the filter.

Remove the four 8mm bolts of the oil filter housing, which is the circular object the arrow is pointing towards. The four bolts are circled.



The oil filter housing should come out now, with quite a bit of oil. It is somewhat messy, try to get your oil drain pan underneath the filter housing. It will drip over the exhaust as well if it is on the side stand.





Underneath the filter, which is the large object in the middle of the housing is a spring. Make sure you don't let that escape.



This is the new filter. Note the OUTSIDE written on it. That part needs to be mounted facing outwards.



Hold back the fairing and put the new filter with OUTSIDE facing outwards as pictured below.



Now, with the new gasket in place, re-insert the oil filter housing, making sure the spring is in the same place. It may take a third hand(helper) to hold the fairing back and get a bolt in so that it stays in place. I believe the torque value for the oil filter housing bolts is 9 ft/lbs. I just hand tightened them, plus a little more and it does not seem to be leaking.

Next, with your new crush washer, put some engine oil on the drain bolt threads and hand tighten it back into place. Then with your torque wrench at 18 ft/lbs tighten the oil drain bolt down.

Now with your new oil and funnel, fill up the oil so that it reads between the upper and lower levels in the oil sight window on the right side of the bike. Do this with the bike level. Now close up the oil filler cap. Start the bike up so that oil can circulate through it. Then turn it off and leave it for a few minutes while you clean up. Check it while level again and pour in more oil so that the level is correct. Make sure you replace the oil filler cap.

Notice the upper and lower marks.




Congratulations! Your oil change is complete. Ride and enjoy:)

For an example of what happens if the oil filter is put on backwards, see this engine destruction thread (scary photos): http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-problems-issues/61378-my-engine-seized.html#post644954
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone know how to change the thread name? I managed to forget to get rid of the Year Make Model bs.

Thanks!

Please let me know of any changes and suggestions for this DIY.
 

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Is the new gasket absolutely imperative? I went and bought a couple filters and some oil today, didn't think about the seal.
 

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the gasket is probably good for a few changes, but having one sitting nearby in case the old one decides to start leaking isnt a bad idea.

one thing that people may want to look at though is motorcycle oil vs car motor oil.
ive read several times that because of the wet clutch system this bike needs to use oil that is designed for motorcycles so that the clutch doesnt end up slipping when its not supposed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The gasket is pretty cheap. It doesn't really hurt to change out either.

But, yes, I think you could get away without getting a new oil filter gasket.
 

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I am not worried about the cost of the gasket, it was just at the time i didn't pick one up and the dealership isn't open on sunday. I reused it, so far so good. Will pick up a couple extras and keep them around.
 

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Awesome write up! I had an atv that had a wet clutch transmision and I ran regular auto oil in it for about two years and it was fine. I don't think they need a friction modifier in it like a clutch type limited slip rearend does.
 

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Now, with the new gasket in place, re-insert the oil filter housing, making sure the spring is in the same place. It may take a third hand(helper) to hold the fairing back and get a bolt in so that it stays in place. I believe the torque value for the oil filter housing bolts is 9 ft/lbs. I just hand tightened them, plus a little more and it does not seem to be leaking.
not too tight on them housing bolts.......they snap off :eek::eek::eek:


nice post :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks everyone.

Yeah I really went easy on the oil filter housing bolts. Literally hand tight and a 1/4th turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is very helpful! you should make a tutorial video:)
I may make a video for the valve adjustment at 16k.

Or at least another picture write up. I do think that a video is more helpful for valves though, because understanding what you're doing helps a lot. In contrast an oil change is a lot simpler.

At least the valves don't require removing the camshafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah. I just decided to buy the SM. This is a new bike so there's not a lot of info like for the Ninja 250 online. I decided it'd be a fun project to help provide information as I figure it out. I don't think the valves will be too impossible after reading the SM. I think with removing the tank there should be enough space to get my telescopic magnet in there.
 
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