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Discussion Starter #41
In Australia the oil is $12 per bottle, the filter $16, the gasket $8, and the washer $4 so the 'kit' is cost effective for me.
I do alot of oil changes as I give my baby a severely hard time at the track.

When I swap to Castrol 4T semi synthetic 10-40w and order the filters & gaskets online in bulk, then I'll change, but for now the kits are great.
I prefer to run the std oil till the bike has done at least 10,000 hard km.

Bottle being a litre?
 

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Bottle being a litre?
Yes,1 bottle = litre
'kit' has 2 bottles, filter, gasket, and washer.

If you buy a 4 litre container of GN4 its about $33-$40, but if I was buying 4 litres there is better oil options with Castol (etc) for same money, then you still need the filter etc.

Tried to explain it to JVK and others in another thread but it turned into another mineral vs synth discussion as always.

The 'kit' is the way to go for anyone in the first 12,000km/12 month ownership who likes to do extra oil changes.
Waste of time running any other oil in the first year, this engine seems to take ages to loosen up, and it likes 10-30 mineral oil while new, mine is getting there, but still a bit tight (at 6000km and 5 track days),
least the gearbox is very slick now tho. (finally)

Its still not producing enough power and its slow to rev compared to some higher milage ones Ive seen, but have had it to 171/2 kph (indicated) even tho takes a 1km downhill run to get there.

$40 in australia is loose change.
might get you 3 pizzas , or a carton of beer, or 2 tanks of fuel in a cbr250, or a cabfare home from the pub.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I'm guessing that if gas is cheaper here, so is oil? I normally pick up a gallon for $12-$20 here.
 

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Our average wage is $80k per annum here in WA so its all relative.

AUD$ is at $1.05US (it will fall soon but good for us now)

Canada and Australia has ther best living standards in the world.. but but we've had that topic elsewhere lol.

And you lot still talk of Quarts and gallons, in 1966 the rest of the world went metric.. do please try to keep up :p :)
 

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I changed my oil today and i had difficulties on taking off the Middle fairing. I was unable to detach the non visible third tab (one closest to the exposed allen bolt). Is there an easier way to get at this tab?

Also i checked the factory Torque setting on the Oil Filter cover bolts and they registered at 7 lbf ft. Just if anyone was wondering
 

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What's your opinion on either HIFLO or the K&N brand filters? I called the closest dealership to me and they have been on backorder for them for 9 months... So with my first change coming up (after buying used) I need to find a filter and maybe gasket. I was just going to use 10W-40 mototrcycle since the 30 is more rare than the filters it seems. Ideas?
 

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What's your opinion on either HIFLO or the K&N brand filters? I called the closest dealership to me and they have been on backorder for them for 9 months... So with my first change coming up (after buying used) I need to find a filter and maybe gasket. I was just going to use 10W-40 mototrcycle since the 30 is more rare than the filters it seems. Ideas?
I would say either filter is fine, but if they are not available just use the OEM one this time.

Use Hondaline GN-4 10W-30 or Hondaline HP-4s 10W-30 synthetic or another 10W or 5W-30 cycle oil (do not use a standard auto oil of any type).

A 10W-40 will slow the oil-flow rate and give you more oil pressure than you need unless you are consistently operating in extreme temps and high RPMs (racing mostly).


Jay
 

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Its all in the owners manual but I hope mine and etiainens pics helped.

One day I'm going to do write ups of this sort of stuff and Luke will make them stickys.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Yeah, I think stickys are the way to go.

Unless we had something like a wiki that linked to the stickys.

That assumes people will actually look instead of reposting.:|
 

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I would say either filter is fine, but if they are not available just use the OEM one this time.

Use Hondaline GN-4 10W-30 or Hondaline HP-4s 10W-30 synthetic or another 10W or 5W-30 cycle oil (do not use a standard auto oil of any type).

A 10W-40 will slow the oil-flow rate and give you more oil pressure than you need unless you are consistently operating in extreme temps and high RPMs (racing mostly).


Jay
Why?? There's tons and tons of people running auto oil for many many miles with no problems. It's a dealership "myth" to make more money from you that you HAVE to run "motorcycle" oil. As long as you don't run an energy saving rated oil you'll be fine. Energy saving rated oils have friction reducers that can affect our wet clutches. As a matter of fact rotella dino oil and their synthetic is now JASO MA certified which means that it specifically meets motorcycle standards. Check out bobistheoilguy website sometime and see how many people are running automobile oil in their bikes for thousands and thousands of miles with perfect results. They have a motorcycle specific section too. The most popular ones seem to be rotella, delo 400 and delvac.
 

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Why?? There's tons and tons of people running auto oil for many many miles with no problems. It's a dealership "myth" to make more money from you that you HAVE to run "motorcycle" oil. As long as you don't run an energy saving rated oil you'll be fine. Energy saving rated oils have friction reducers that can affect our wet clutches. As a matter of fact rotella dino oil and their synthetic is now JASO MA certified which means that it specifically meets motorcycle standards. Check out bobistheoilguy website sometime and see how many people are running automobile oil in their bikes for thousands and thousands of miles with perfect results. They have a motorcycle specific section too. The most popular ones seem to be rotella, delo 400 and delvac.
There's more to it than that. Friction Modifiers are only one of the problems. Do some research into the amounts of Zinc and Phosphorus in current auto oils and get back to me.

Rotella isn't an auto oil - it's a diesel oil. There's a difference. I didn't say "don't run diesel oils" I said "don't run auto oils". Rotella has good levels of the additives I mentioned and no modifiers.

Use a diesel oil, but not an auto oil.


Jay
 

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They really nice thing about Rotella...is that you pick it up in almost any town. I have been using Rotella for years, but it seems a bit "heavy" for the CBR.
 

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I can't believe people would pay someone to do an oil change on this bike. I'm doing all of the maintenance except a valve adjustment, which is really an easy task once you get to the valves. I did all of the maintenance on my last 178cc scooter. It was a great learning experience. I hate changing brake fluid though, brake fluid is evil. That shiz will kill your paint in 0.2 secs.
 

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They really nice thing about Rotella...is that you pick it up in almost any town. I have been using Rotella for years, but it seems a bit "heavy" for the CBR.
You are right. A 5W-40 (like Rotella T6) or 10W-40 of any type isn't the best choice for the CBR for normal riding conditions.

There aren't a lot of readily available 10W-30 cycle oils to choose from. I'd use Hondaline GN-4 or Hondaline HP-4s (synthetic) in the CBR. There are other 30-grade cycle oils like Motul, Repsol, etc but they are not that common.

DO NOT run a 5W-30 or 10W-30 automotive oil.


Jay
 

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I can't believe people would pay someone to do an oil change on this bike. I'm doing all of the maintenance except a valve adjustment, which is really an easy task once you get to the valves. I did all of the maintenance on my last 178cc scooter. It was a great learning experience. I hate changing brake fluid though, brake fluid is evil. That shiz will kill your paint in 0.2 secs.
What are you talking about, you have to ride it to even need to change the oil. Youre oil will evaporate before youre ever due for an oil change.
 
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