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Discussion Starter #61
I can't believe people would pay someone to do an oil change on this bike. I'm doing all of the maintenance except a valve adjustment, which is really an easy task once you get to the valves. I did all of the maintenance on my last 178cc scooter. It was a great learning experience. I hate changing brake fluid though, brake fluid is evil. That shiz will kill your paint in 0.2 secs.

When you change your brake fluid, try to put some shop cloths around and having a partner helps as well to keep spillage to a minimum.

Hopefull by the time you get to the valve adjustment and if you're willing to try, more people will have input on how to do them.

I don't know if you've done one before, but the CBR doesn't really look too bad. You don't have to remove the cams which saves a lot of pain.
 

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Yeah, I think stickys are the way to go.

Unless we had something like a wiki that linked to the stickys.

That assumes people will actually look instead of reposting.:|
Exactly.

Why would anyone want to look for an existing thread that has everything you'd ever want to know about a topic, when you can just start a new thread, and rehash everything over again. Perhaps some have searched, found, and read the existing forum threads... maybe they just didn't like the answers that they found... "This is a bitter pill to swallow, I don't like it... I think I'll start a new thread on the exact same topic, maybe then I'll get the easy answers I'm looking for".

How many threads are there regarding "600 mile Service" or "Valve Clearance Inspection/Adjustment" or "Which exhaust should I buy?"... I've lost count... Seriously, it's becoming just a little ridiculous how many threads are repeats, of repeats, of yet another repeat.

Here's an idea:
When a new, redundant thread is started, maybe the first and only reply should redirect the OP to an existing thread.

What blows me away is how many people post to a thread, and it is so obvious that they didn't read the previous posts to the thread, because they are saying the same thing that someone else said two pages back, and they post as if they had the original thought. Read the entire thread before you post with your bold, new insights.

And that's all I've got to say about that.:p
 

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Discussion Starter #63
That's why I like wikis. They make things so blatantly obvious. And easy to navigate. You can summarise all the important things in there. And then link to pertinent threads with discussion.

Least that's what I think.
 

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I have a question about an engine rattle, the first 600 mile service , a new exhaust system, a fender eliminator kit, a tinted windscreen and handlebar vibrations. I think I will start a new thread.:p
 

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What blows me away is how many people post to a thread, and it is so obvious that they didn't read the previous posts to the thread, because they are saying the same thing that someone else said two pages back. Read the entire thread ...:p
I know exactly how you feel, the agonizing torture of having to share the planet with people like that. Or worse, quoting someone's post in a thread, but they accuse you of pulling the quote from an entirely different thread because they can't even remember their own posts two pages back. Sheesh, some people! Thou shalt know thy own posts. :rolleyes:
 

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Exactly.

Why would anyone want to look for an existing thread that has everything you'd ever want to know about a topic, when you can just start a new thread, and rehash everything over again. Perhaps some have searched, found, and read the existing forum threads... maybe they just didn't like the answers that they found... "This is a bitter pill to swallow, I don't like it... I think I'll start a new thread on the exact same topic, maybe then I'll get the easy answers I'm looking for".

How many threads are there regarding "600 mile Service" or "Valve Clearance Inspection/Adjustment" or "Which exhaust should I buy?"... I've lost count... Seriously, it's becoming just a little ridiculous how many threads are repeats, of repeats, of yet another repeat.

Here's an idea:
When a new, redundant thread is started, maybe the first and only reply should redirect the OP to an existing thread.

What blows me away is how many people post to a thread, and it is so obvious that they didn't read the previous posts to the thread, because they are saying the same thing that someone else said two pages back, and they post as if they had the original thought. Read the entire thread before you post with your bold, new insights.

And that's all I've got to say about that.:p
I have sarcastically remarked several times that half my posts anymore are me linking people to old threads after i searched them from the search box at the top of the page..

sometimes id rather do that than answering their questions in their new thread that has already been rode hard and put away wet in here multiple times...

sometimes i dont mind seeing a new thread when the old one went off subject or became nothing but an " im smarter than you intellect shouting match" between two people..thats about as annoying as rehashing old threads repeatedly to me
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Wiki!

I am a HUGE advocate for wikis. They make it extremely easy to find the answers to popular questions. I am contemplating just starting one and asking people here to help me contribute pictures and information. So we can just put up useful information w/o searching through ten pages of commentary.:)
 

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There's more to it than that. Friction Modifiers are only one of the problems. Do some research into the amounts of Zinc and Phosphorus in current auto oils and get back to me.

Rotella isn't an auto oil - it's a diesel oil. There's a difference. I didn't say "don't run diesel oils" I said "don't run auto oils". Rotella has good levels of the additives I mentioned and no modifiers.

Use a diesel oil, but not an auto oil.


Jay
I thought you were talking about all auto oils including diesel. Most of the oils other than the majic motorcycle oil I see people running in bikes is diesel oil like delo, rotella and delvac so it's gotta be good stuff.
 

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If you dont have a torque wrench, dont use a 1/2" ratchet on the sump plug,
3/8 drive will do, even a 12mm combination (ring- open end) wil do,
you have more risk overtightening than anything else.

(for Robbo)
 

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Where is the best place to purchase the parts for the oil change? Any online recommendations? The dealer ALWAYS charges way more for parts, or do you HAVE to order the parts through the stealership?
 

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Where is the best place to purchase the parts for the oil change? Any online recommendations? The dealer ALWAYS charges way more for parts, or do you HAVE to order the parts through the stealership?
Mate its about $20 for filter, gasket and washer. $20 for oil
 

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Where is the best place to purchase the parts for the oil change? Any online recommendations? The dealer ALWAYS charges way more for parts, or do you HAVE to order the parts through the stealership?
Because the choices for 10W-30 cycle oil are pretty limited, most likely you'll be using Hondaline GN-4 (conventional) of HP-4s (synthetic) anyway, so you might as well just get the OEM filter while you are there.

As far as hunting-down the oil and filter online for a better price, you could find OEM filters cheaper somewhere and buy Hondaline or another 10W-30 cycle oil (Motul, Repsol, etc) if you wanted to. Add the shipping and see what the difference would be, but it might not be much.

I'd probably use this 10W-30 Motul 5100 (Motul - Automotive Products - 5100 4T 10W30) if I didn't want to use HP-4s. Because of the small amount of oil the CBR holds I personally would always use a high grade synthetic.

Jay
 

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You'll do the driveline more good if you change the oil more often than the book says (every 8k miles my ass) than if you obsess over finding an oil with the JASO rating. Avoid EC/RC oils if you're concerned about that, even though all evidence points to EC additives having no adverse effect on clutch operation -- even the JASO testing guidelines say only that there is 'concern', not that the concern is founded or verified.

I put in mobil-1 10w30 high mileage (non-EC) at the 600mi change before I read this, and will ship it off to blackstone @ 3600 for analysis and then put in a quality 10w30 EC oil to test out the clutch myth for myself.

Important part of the linked article:
Can synthetic oils cause my clutch to slip?
To answer this in one word: No
....
We talked to Mark Junge, Vesrah's Racing representative, who has won numerous WERA national championships using Vesrah's clutches. He said that in his years of engine work he has yet to see a slipping clutch that could be pinned on synthetic motor oil. Junge felt that nearly every time the clutch was marginal or had worn springs, the new oil just revealed a problem that already existed.
 

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I will be going with semi-synth and then synth. How can I order the oil filter and gasket myself w/o the dealer? Does everybody order their parts at the dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
You could order at cheapcycleparts.com.

However, I found that my dealership was cheaper when it came down to shipping. It's really not that much to get it at the dealership.
 

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Best place? Dealership pickup. The parts are cheap. $15 or less for the oil filter, gasket, and crush washer. Oil wherever you want to buy it.
 

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allen;54480 I put in mobil-1 10w30 high mileage (non-EC) at the 600mi change before I read [url=http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html said:
this[/url], and will ship it off to blackstone @ 3600 for analysis and then put in a quality 10w30 EC oil to test out the clutch myth for myself.
Here's a guide to Mobil1 oils - http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf.

Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-30 (Group III) has good levels of Phosphorus and Zinc (unlike most auto oils) but it also contains "seal conditioners" that are intended to swell engine seals and stop leaks on older cars. That's the main reason I generally don't recommend it.

Mobil1 Extended Performance uses an advanced base stock (PAO, Group IV), but has typical (low) levels of Phosphorus and Zinc (ZDDP).

Regular auto oils have reduced levels of Phosphorus and Zinc because of automotive regulations, and aren't a safe choice for most cycles. Because the CBR's uses roller-rocker arms, the low levels may not cause damage like it can in a typical cycle engine.

Diesel oils like Rotella T6 and Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck have higher levels of ZDDP than auto oils, and no modifiers. Just as a note - all 40-grade automotive oils (5W-40, 10W-40, etc) and above do not have modifiers - but that doesn't mean they are a safe choice for use in most cycles.

The "Energy Conserving" part (Friction Modifiers) doesn't bother me as much as low levels of Phosphorus and Zinc (and the "seal conditioners" in Mobil1 High Mileage), but again, the CBR's roller rockers are similar to an automotive design that can function safely with lower levels.


Jay
 

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I'm honestly not worried about any of it. If it's the right weight for the climate, and meets at least the minimum API and ACEA ratings, it should be fine. I'll send it off to blackstone to be tested and try a few others as well. If there's any abnormal wear it will show in the test results.
 

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I'm honestly not worried about any of it. If it's the right weight for the climate, and meets at least the minimum API and ACEA ratings, it should be fine. I'll send it off to blackstone to be tested and try a few others as well. If there's any abnormal wear it will show in the test results.
The effects of the "seal conditioners" is the concern with that oil, and won't show on the tests.

Just something to consider.


Jay
 
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