Fender eliminator write-up
Fender eliminator write-up
For those of us who want a cleaner rear fender look and have some DIY talent, also some welding experience or a nearby welder.
Small and big flathead
Phillips screw driver
8mm, 10mm, 12mm 3/8 sockets
12 mm ratcheting wrench
14mm combination wrench
Drill gun and various drill bits
A pair of vise grips
Black spray paint
3”x 1” 14g piece of metal
Either led plate lights or a led strip
Standard bullet connectors
Remove rear seat
Remove 3 Phillips screws off top taillight fairing, gently slide rearward being careful not to break the plastic clips
Remove the two support handles by removing the (2) 12mm bolts (4 total).
Remove the two upper Phillips screws holding the taillight to bracket.
Remove the two clips holding the rear fairings,, and the two clips holding the belly pan. I used a small flat head for the fairing pieces, and my finger pressing from the inside for the under belly panel. After clips are removed push panel down towards tire and remove.
Remove the license plate (2 bolts) and bracket( 3 bolts) with the 8 and 10mm ratchet.
At this point I opened up the wiring cover and unplugged and labeled all the connections, removing the blinkers, the taillight connection and the license plate lamp wires. Remember to pull at the connector not from the wire.
Color code for wires
License plate lamp green
Blue right turn signal
Orange left turn signal
Also a common power for turn signal wires Green
And a common power from the taillight and license plate lamp Brown
One connection to the rear taillight.
Remove the (4) screws with the Phillips screwdriver from the inside of the fender holding the license plate lamp and rear reflector to the fender.
Remove the last center bolt 10mm from the rear fender.
Remove the (2) 14mm nut holding the rear blinkers on the fender, carefully removing without dropping. Rear fender should just pull off now.
Remove the two Phillips screws from lower taillight panel to body and last Phillips screw from the lower taillight panel to taillight pull the fairing apart removing the lower taillight panel. The complete taillight assembly should also just pull free from the bike.
Remove the (3) 12mm bolts off the rear fender support to frame.
Modified rear fender support
Modified belly panel
License plate and modified bracket
Lower and upper taillight panels
Parts no longer used
Complete rear fender
Stock license plate light
This is where the fun begins, so if you’re not too savvy with the grinder or welder you might want to find an expert to do these next few steps.
The rear fender support needs to be cut down or else it’ll stick out behind the belly panel, I decided on cutting ¼ from rear bolt hole, just in case I later wanted to reattach or weld on a luggage rack. I then smoothed with a file and some sand paper and repainted with flat black
The license plate bracket needs to be modified, I cut off the bottom where it comes to a point, removed the rear reflectors and drilled out the holes where they were to fit the turn signal assemblies.
With the 3x1 piece of steel I cut a slot into the 1”width side about an inch and a half (1 1/2) deep at about 3/16 wide, this way putting in the dreaded third bolt for the rear support under the taillight would be a breeze.
With a pair of vise grips clamp the new piece of metal on to the plate bracket, I measured exactly in the middle so it would have a centered look, you could also offset, but in my opinion its better straight.
The welding begins, just laid a full bead across the 1” width of metal. Grind the small metal flake and smooth the bead. Paint your newly finished bracket
The belly pan modification, I looked at many different ways to cut this plastic and decided the butting up against the license plate would be best look and protection from debris affecting the wiring and underneath of rear seat.
Again measure thrice cut once; mark the line straight so there’s a good seal, cut with either the grinder or a more precise Dremmel with cut-off wheel.
Install the rear fender support with the (3) 12mm bolts leaving the rear one loose enough to slide the 3”x1” piece of metal from the license plate bracket onto the bike.
Install the taillight and lower taillight panel and put in the screw retaining the taillight and (2) to the rear side fairings.
After the bracket has dried slide onto the rear bolt and tighten down with the 12mm ratcheting wrench, install the license plate.
Install the rear blinkers into housing, tighten the two 14mm nuts and connect wires. Install the rear taillight connections, the clip and single power wire.
This is where you decide on your license plate light setup, I at first went with the led strip from the local AutoZone, but after a week of ride time half of it went out, I later ordered the led plate bolts and am currently waiting on them in the mail, anyways. Just wire up the same way crimp the bullet terminals or solder and plug in.
Start install, on the rest of the OE components. Clip on upper taillight cover, two passenger handles and two rear fairing clips and snap in the belly panel and two belly panel clips. Snap back on your rear seat and get to riding…