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Discussion Starter #1
I got on my bike this morning to go to work, i get about half a mile from my house, i hear a sputtering noise. i look down and see the engine light is flickering. i pull in the clutch and it dies on me while im rolling.(now the engine light went from flickering to on) so i pull in to the closest parking lot. shut the key off, waited a minute, turned off the kill switch ( i put this on after it died while i was rolling) turned the key, FI ran like normal & i was able to start it up like normal. i started to head back home and as soon as i got about 40 again the same thing started to happen.

i was doing 40mph @ the time this started happening. but my speedometer, started acting crazy, saying i was doing 40, 70, 10, 99.

I havent done any modifications to the engine other than put the yoshi slip on exhaust. i ride it regularly so it doesnt sit for more than a day or 2 tops lately.

has anyone else had an issue like this?
if so how was it resolved?

thanks in advanced
 

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Have you disconnected the battery or ran it flat at any stage?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you disconnected the battery or ran it flat at any stage?
disconnected the battery about a month or 2 ago to put my airhorn on. no haven't ran it flat either

went for my first service about 2 weeks ago dont know if they did anything.
& i didnt really have time to look into it when i dropped it off @ home after this problem.
 

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hi,
better take this to the HM people.
often they tend to screw up some bits during the first service.

i had a bad experience on this one,they left the front seat unhooked from the petrol tank.

i did not check the bike receipt thoroughly and latter on i realized this.

so i drove away immediately to dealership and banged them....
 

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Going to have to go to the dealer. Since the light was flashing then it set a code that they can check. Then they can work from there to see if they can figure out what happened. It's still under warranty I'm sure so it's not on your dime anyways =)

And just for your own personal knowledge, the check engine light is always on solid if the motor is not running with the key in the on position.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Going to have to go to the dealer. Since the light was flashing then it set a code that they can check. Then they can work from there to see if they can figure out what happened. It's still under warranty I'm sure so it's not on your dime anyways =)

And just for your own personal knowledge, the check engine light is always on solid if the motor is not running with the key in the on position.
""And just for your own personal knowledge, the check engine light is always on solid if the motor is not running with the key in the on position.""

lol i knew that i was just so pissed off this morning guess i didnt think about that

& im calling them after while about it
 

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Confed I'm curious to know know what the dealer said about your bike. Im pretty sure I had the exact same issue as you,. I was cruising to school and my bike started acting really unresponsive and then just died on me, engine light blinking. My dealers mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with it...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Confed I'm curious to know know what the dealer said about your bike. Im pretty sure I had the exact same issue as you,. I was cruising to school and my bike started acting really unresponsive and then just died on me, engine light blinking. My dealers mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with it...
I brought it in yesterday morning. But they were backed up in the service dept. and said it would be about a week (if the mechanic works fast) before they could look at it. so when i find out ill let ya know when i find out.
 

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Just an update from me: Picked my bike up from the shop this morning and rode it to school. Bike seems to run ok but now has that "high rpm rattle" that other people have complained about! Coincidence that I have it after the bike broke down on me?....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well i got a call today. they said i need a power commander (he said he called around but couldnt find one) b/c the pipe i have on needs to be remapped. ??? he also said if i put the stock one back on then it should run fine. ive had the pipe for more than a month. Why would it start doing this now?

also i know the bike adjusts to a pipe is it bad to put the stock one back on and then put my yoshi one back on when i get a power commander?

Has anyone else had to remap with their yoshi slip on exhaust? i didnt think i needed to if it was a slip on. only if it was a full system.
 

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well i got a call today. they said i need a power commander (he said he called around but couldnt find one) b/c the pipe i have on needs to be remapped. ??? he also said if i put the stock one back on then it should run fine. ive had the pipe for more than a month. Why would it start doing this now?

also i know the bike adjusts to a pipe is it bad to put the stock one back on and then put my yoshi one back on when i get a power commander?

Has anyone else had to remap with their yoshi slip on exhaust? i didnt think i needed to if it was a slip on. only if it was a full system.
Very interested to see the outcome when you put the stocker back on, and IF a slip on can actually cause this.

did you have the silencer in the yoshi btw?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very interested to see the outcome when you put the stocker back on, and IF a slip on can actually cause this.

did you have the silencer in the yoshi btw?
Ill put the stock back on & see how it runs if it makes a difference
and no I didnt have the silencer in the yoshi.
 

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well i got a call today. they said i need a power commander (he said he called around but couldnt find one) b/c the pipe i have on needs to be remapped. ??? he also said if i put the stock one back on then it should run fine. ive had the pipe for more than a month. Why would it start doing this now?

also i know the bike adjusts to a pipe is it bad to put the stock one back on and then put my yoshi one back on when i get a power commander?

Has anyone else had to remap with their yoshi slip on exhaust? i didnt think i needed to if it was a slip on. only if it was a full system.

What error code did he get from the ECU that told him a remapping of the ECU was needed? No error code, then he's probably talking out his a__. Did he offer to do a ECU reset on your bike? That would be the first place I'd start. Let the bike learn the mapping from scratch with the less restrictive exhaust and see if that resolves the problem.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
What error code did he get from the ECU that told him a remapping of the ECU was needed? No error code, then he's probably talking out his a__. Did he offer to do a ECU reset on your bike? That would be the first place I'd start. Let the bike learn the mapping from scratch with the less restrictive exhaust and see if that resolves the problem.

no he didnt offer to reset the ECU. i'll look into trying to reset it and see if it works before i switch back to the stock. is there a certain way to get this done? ive never done it before.

thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Exact words from the Repair invoice
"Ran Unit on Dyno-Unit lean on mid to top range // jumping
of speedo is caused when unit hits that range"

Recommendations
"Needs Fuel Modification such as power commander which is not available at this time
or return to stock exhaust till available"
 

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Exact words from the Repair invoice
"Ran Unit on Dyno-Unit lean on mid to top range // jumping
of speedo is caused when unit hits that range"

Recommendations
"Needs Fuel Modification such as power commander which is not available at this time
or return to stock exhaust till available"
If this is really what's happening then I can't blame the dealer/mechanic for not wanting to touch a set of parts that were not designed to work together. Hope the new fuel meter works out for your setup (probably will).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Soo i tried disconnecting the battery for about a half hour to reset the ecu. it seems like that fixed it. once i connected it back i took it for a short ride (3/4 - 1 mile). to see if it worked. & it seemed like it worked. i let it cool off completely then i went for another ride (about 10 miles) & it seems to be working fine now.

i'll let yall know if anything else comes up with it. Thanks again for the help
 
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