Engine quit at speed

8681 Views 30 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Tamir, 10 mo ago

Steverides123

Discussion Starter · Feb 21, 2015 (Edited)

Engine quit at speed = You put the oil filter in backwards dummy!

Hello,

I thought that I would go on a little ride today. My bike is a 2011 with just under 13,000 miles with no modifications to the engine.
I did change the oil and filter this morning but can't believe that it had anything to do with the issue I had.

I had been riding at slower speeds for about 15 minutes to get to a better riding location.
There is a big hill that leads out of town and I was humming along at 7500 rpm at around 50 mph. The bike seemed to be doing just fine up the hill, not struggling or making funny sounds and then the engine stopped. I slowed to the very small shoulder and tried to take stock of the situation.

The bike would turn over but would not start. The fan was running when I tried to start it, which should not be unusual. I carefully wheeled the bike into a gravel area to get away from traffic. No leaks or smoke or weird smells. Tried to start it again but it would not start.

After a few minutes, I tried starting it again and gave it a little throttle as it turned over. It started up this time with a little sputter but then seemed to be running good. I gave up on a longer ride and headed home. No problems on the way home, power was good, no smoke. Parked it at home and shut it off. Started it up again without a problem. Not sure what to do.

I have been concerned that the cam chain tensioner (CCT)had failed and the previous owner had been running it with a slapping cam chain. I replaced the CCT
a year or so ago and it had quieted a bit, especially at idle. The engine does seem loud to me in general, though this is my first single.

Any ideas why my engine quit? It sounds like there have been some similar incidents.

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MotoMike

· #21 · Feb 27, 2015

MotoMike said:
... Fortunately, parts are not very expensive for this bike... Parts Finder Honda East Toledo Maumee, OH 1-877-437-1631

Steverides123 said:
I was able to sand/polish out the scratches on the left cam bushing, but not much accuracy in that, but it looks better.
I found a new head and bushing set for about $140, cams at about $30 each.
That's pretty cheap.
The bushings on the head look pretty good (much more minor scratches) and I may be able to shine that up.
I know that I am getting a new cam and some other bits, which will only set me back $60 or so. I just need to decide if I want to test it without replacing head.
Cheers

Steve, not sure if you missed my previous post, but Honda East Toledo has OEM parts for less than those prices, and has free shipping on orders over $99.

Cylinder Head is $124.63 here: Parts Finder Honda East Toledo Maumee, OH 1-877-437-1631

Looks like you only need one camshaft @ $26.55, the Rocker Arm Pins are less than $3 each, and a head gasket is about $12... you should be able to get everything you need for less than $175.

At those prices, if it were my bike, I wouldn't even mess around with trying to salvage that cylinder head. A machine shop would easily charge $100 or more to bore the damaged camshaft bearing surfaces and fit a bushing (assuming a correct sized bushing can be found 'off the shelf').

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jkv357

· #22 · Feb 27, 2015

^ Wow - that's a no-brainer replacing everything in question at those prices!

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shisoshin

· #23 · Feb 27, 2015

especially if you can do it yourself..

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Steverides123

Discussion Starter · #24 · Mar 29, 2015

Sorry for the long time before an update.
I took a long time to get the parts, supposedly because of bad weather on East Coast...

I replaced the intake cam and cleaned up the head surfaces as best I could.
It is back together now and running good!

It cost me under $100 for parts.

I changed the oil and filter again and used thicker oil (semi-synthetic 10 W40).

Went for a ride this morning and it was great to get back on the bike.
Troubleshooting continued vibration from cowlings. Tightened/replaced fasteners.
Washed the bike and will ride a little more to see how it sounds.

Thanks again for suggestions.

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Juann

· #25 · 10 mo ago

Steverides123 said:
Sorry for the long time before an update.
I took a long time to get the parts, supposedly because of bad weather on East Coast...

I replaced the intake cam and cleaned up the head surfaces as best I could.
It is back together now and running good!

It cost me under $100 for parts.

I changed the oil and filter again and used thicker oil (semi-synthetic 10 W40).

Went for a ride this morning and it was great to get back on the bike.
Troubleshooting continued vibration from cowlings. Tightened/replaced fasteners.
Washed the bike and will ride a little more to see how it sounds.

Thanks again for suggestions.

Brooo! This just happened to me lmao the exact same thing. did you end up getting rid of the noise???

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Tamir

· #26 · 10 mo ago

Juann said:
Brooo! This just happened to me lmao the exact same thing. did you end up getting rid of the noise???

Hi
Steverides123 has not entered to the forum since May 2021.
Maybe you can open a new thread, upload pictures & video, and try to explain us what your particular problem is?

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Juann

· #27 · 10 mo ago

Tamir said:
Hi
Steverides123 has not entered to the forum since May 2021.
Maybe you can open a new thread, upload pictures & video, and try to explain us what your particular problem is?

Thanks for replying bro and dude I put the filter in backwards, I have put it correctly now, but it makes a lot of noise, im sure the pistons are scratched worse than his. I don’t know what to do now.

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Tamir

· #28 · 10 mo ago

Juann said:
Thanks for replying bro and dude I put the filter in backwards, I have put it correctly now, but it makes a lot of noise, im sure the pistons are scratched worse than his. I don’t know what to do now.

Oh, it's not fun and not good.
If the engine is damaged, do not let the engine run when it is broken and making noise, it will only make the damage worse.

Maybe at this stage the engine can still be saved?
I suggest that you go to a qualified mechanic in your area, not by riding, but by towing, and try to get an opinion from him on the damage caused and how much it will cost to repair the engine.

Sometimes it's worth repairing,
sometimes it's worth changing to a new engine,
and sometimes it's worth selling the motorcycle for spare parts.

Try to understand with your mechanic what is the best for you to do,
and also, with his opinion, you can come back here and consult with us again.

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Juann

· #29 · 10 mo ago

Tamir said:
Oh, it's not fun and not good.
If the engine is damaged, do not let the engine run when it is broken and making noise, it will only make the damage worse.

Maybe at this stage the engine can still be saved?
I suggest that you go to a qualified mechanic in your area, not by riding, but by towing, and try to get an opinion from him on the damage caused and how much it will cost to repair the engine.

Sometimes it's worth repairing,

sometimes it's worth changing to a new engine,

and sometimes it's worth selling the motorcycle for spare parts.

Try to understand with your mechanic what is the best for you to do,
and also, with his opinion, you can come back here and consult with us again.

One mechanic told me to fix it he’ll charge me 1500
And for an engine swap he’ll charge me 1200
I really don’t trust that guy if I’m being honest.
I need to check at other shops but I don’t think I’ll get any less than that.

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jkv357

· #30 · 10 mo ago

Juann said:
One mechanic told me to fix it he’ll charge me 1500
And for an engine swap he’ll charge me 1200
I really don’t trust that guy if I’m being honest.
I need to check at other shops but I don’t think I’ll get any less than that.

Swapping-in a different engine shouldn't be that much.

It's most likely going to be better to find a used engine than repair yours. Check prices for used engines.

I would drain the oil and remove the oil filter to look for chips of metal that would indicate bearing failure, but I would expect to find some.

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Reactions: 1

Tamir

· #31 · 10 mo ago

jkv357 said:
I would drain the oil and remove the oil filter to look for chips of metal that would indicate bearing failure, but I would expect to find some.

It is possible that at that moment all the chips have stopped in the strainer filter, so you will not see them anywhere else in the engine, not even in the "regular" oil filter.

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