[gallis]

This morning on the way to work, I was accelerating out of traffic lights. I was at around 100kph still accelerating when suddenly the engine turned off and the engine yellow light came on. this was not during a gear change. I pulled in the clutch and idled to a service road on the side. I then pressed the engine kill switch off and back on again. The engine light went off and I started the bike normally. I tried reving the engine to see if this would happen again, but everything was fine. I continued driving to work without further problem.
Has anyone experienced this before? any idea what could cause this?

Thanks
G

 

[genisis112]

If It turned the engine light on go to the dealer and get them to check the fault codes.

 

[sendler]

You must have bumped the kill switch or it was hanging in the middle and then bounced over to off.

 

[jkv357]

You must have bumped the kill switch or it was hanging in the middle and then bounced over to off.

That's kinda what I was thinking. You are saying it completely died, right? When you said "... idled to a service road..." did you mean coasted?

I'd personally hold-off on doing too much without being able to duplicate the situation.


Jay

 

[gallis]

Yes, it completely died, as if I've pressed the kill switch. But it wasn't the kill switch - I checked it as I was coasting towards the service road and it was still on.

 

[spdklls]

If It turned the engine light on go to the dealer and get them to check the fault codes.

+1 the engine light coming on saves the fault code that caused it to come on..the dealer can hook to the the diagnostic under the tail and tell you what the deal was in a matter of minutes

And I dont think pressing the kill switch makes the engine light come on anyway to the best of my knowledge

 

[sendler]

If It turned the engine light on go to the dealer and get them to check the fault codes.

The MIL lights always light up anytime the key is on and the engine is off for a bulb check. That is normal. There will only be a code if the engine light were still on all the time now.

 

[genisis112]

The MIL lights always light up anytime the key is on and the engine is off for a bulb check. That is normal. There will only be a code if the engine light were still on all the time now.

Serious it only stores a fault code while the light is on?

 

[sendler]

What I'm trying to say is, the light always comes on every time you turn on the key if the engine is off or if you stall/ kill it. Just because you saw the light on until you restarted it, doesn't mean you have a code or that anything was wrong.

 

[gallis]

It did it again today... twice! first time it did it in exactly the same road accelerating out of the same traffic lights. I pulled to the side and restarted. Then I made another hard acceleration run and it shut down again in about 110Kph. Then, after the second time I tried to duplicate it a few times but everything was fine. In both times the EFI light came on but turned off after flipped the kill switch off and back on again.
I am taking it to the dealer next week.

G

 

[jkv357]

Because you were accelerating both times, I'm thinking maybe a lack of fuel pressure, meaning possibly the fuel pump. Or even a venting issue.

Let us know what they find out.


Jay

 

[BethAims]

same problem!

I had the same thing happen to me a few times! The first time I figured I had hit the kill switch. But it happened a few times after that and I am positive I did not touch the kill switch! I thought maybe I had downshifted to fast? Let us know when you find out!

 

[Matao87]

This sounds VERY similar to a problem my bike had. It was paired with a bad start button. The dealer replaced the whole start/run/kill assembl and it hasn't happened since.

 

[Aargee]

I'd the same issue on 3rd day; it was diagnosed with an engine seizure!!! Honda replaced the entire engine & I've clocked 16028 till now; awesome & I'm loving this. BTW, its a MC42 engine, not MC41

 

[Honda CBR 250 Rider]

This JUST happened to me twice within the last hour for the first time while riding. Long story short.

Opened up the battery compartment and check to see if either of the cable screws are loose. If they are loose then tighten them.

The mechanics here showed discovered the problem right away as I demonstrated it to them. Thank god I won't have this constant battery disconnect happen again for some time.

 

[doublej]

Contacts on the side stand opening... just a thought.

 

[gallis]

So far it happened 4 times and always when hard accelerating (probably ***) in fourth or fifth gear and at high RPM (but still below redline).

The facts that it happens only in this specific scenario makes me think it is not related to a mechanical contact such as battery or side stand contact. it seems more likely to be an electronic/sensor issue.

I was abroad so didn't take her to dealer yet but will do tomorrow. I just hope they know what they are doing

G

 

[gallis]

Left the bike at the dealer's today. According to them, the computer stored a throttle error code. They said they have "reset the throttle", and that should solve the problem, but they cannot be sure and I will need to ride it to see if the problem reoccurs. I only talked to the guy over the phone and he didn't seem very knowledgeable. I wonder if there is really such a procedure for "resetting the throttle" and if it isn't just dealer talk for full ECU reset.

 

[Soul Searcher]

Pulling th wool over your eyes.

Left the bike at the dealer's today. According to them, the computer stored a throttle error code. They said they have "reset the throttle", and that should solve the problem, but they cannot be sure and I will need to ride it to see if the problem reoccurs. I only talked to the guy over the phone and he didn't seem very knowledgeable. I wonder if there is really such a procedure for "resetting the throttle" and if it isn't just dealer talk for full ECU reset.

Something to Think About.

What's the diagnostics step on a code stored in the ECM? Hook up the Hand Held Tester. Retreive the stored Code(s) and Freeze Frame(s) Data. Clear the Stored Code(s) and Freeze Frame(s) Data. Road Test the cbr. Does the Code(s) Reset. If Yes, Replace the Component. If No, Return the cbr to the Owner.

What the Dealership told you, you be the Judge.

If a Bolt of Lighten had struck the Throttle Position Sensor. The Throttle Position Sensor would of been replaced. Instead of you having to return to the Dealership sometime in the Future for the same Problem.
.

 

[gallis]

Something to Think About.

What's the diagnostics step on a code stored in the ECM? Hook up the Hand Held Tester. Retreive the stored Code(s) and Freeze Frame(s) Data. Clear the Stored Code(s) and Freeze Frame(s) Data. Road Test the cbr. Does the Code(s) Reset. If Yes, Replace the Component. If No, Return the cbr to the Owner.

What the Dealership told you, you be the Judge.

If a Bolt of Lighten had struck the Throttle Position Sensor. The Throttle Position Sensor would of been replaced. Instead of you having to return to the Dealership sometime in the Future for the same Problem.
.

I agree, I think it must be a problem with a physical part (throttle position sensor or other) and that they have not really fixed anything.