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Maybe you should do it again.
If that's how to fix it, then Honda should sell this as a "track bike" only. If a car did this, am I supposed to drive like a bat out of hell everytime the light turns green. I don't want to race, I want to enjoy the cruise.
 

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Nah, I ran it ragged one time, a month ago, and it has started just fine since. I went back to my normal riding style afterward and we're golden.

Doesn't hurt to give it a good workout now and again.
 

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Mine was doing the same thing first thing in the morning and I started to bleep the throttle to get it to rev up to 2000 RPMS as I thumb the start switch. I did it maybe about 8 morning cold starts and now it is fine. It starts up right away when I thumb it. I also do get on the highway and I speed up fast and drive it fast so I agree with mugwug, I think the bike just needs to get ragged out at least one time.
 

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I have the same issue and I have about 5k on the odometer. I know this sounds crazy but I've found twisting the throttle a couple of times before starting seems to stop the "stall on startup". Maybe it is just my bike but it's worth a shot. I did take mine to dealer but they could not find anything wrong.
 

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Just a thought. Try turning on the ignition, and BEFORE you start the engine, fully open and close the throttle a couple of times. You should only have to do this once. This should let the ECU calibrate the throttle position sensor over it's entire range. I don't know if this will make any difference, or not, but it's got to be worth a try.
 

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Hi all,
I was having the same problem as the youtube vids, but I was also having it happen randomly if I pulled in the clutch while driving... maybe twice a month at first.
I took it to the shop and they said that my battery was shot and convinced me to upgrade to some fancy $100 model.
I should add, that in fact my battery was shot... at 3300k.
Finally got the bike back and today, less than a week later, i pull in the clutch going ~60mph on the highway and it dies again.
So it no longer dies when I start it, but I'd prefer that to it dying while I'm riding.
I took a couple of tries to get it started, as I'm checking all around in case I have to coast to the shoulder.
Needless to say, this is dangerous.
Again, I only released the throttle and pulled the clutch. I had to flick the shut-off twice to re-ignite.
Seriously considering just returning and going for some other bike.
 

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Nah, I ran it ragged one time, a month ago, and it has started just fine since. I went back to my normal riding style afterward and we're golden.

Doesn't hurt to give it a good workout now and again.

What octane fuel are you using? From reading other threads I've noticed that if you use the honda recomended "regular" 87 grade the engine works perfectly but if you try to use higher octane "premium" it causes carbon build up because of the low compression ratio of our bikes. Basicially Honda designed this bike to use gas around 87 octane, and anything higher is not helping, but hurting your bike.

You wringing it out sounds like you cleaned up any carbon desposites. Switch to regular fuel and you won't notice any MPG or performance drop, but you will notice your issues will go away.
 

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mine has this problem, just had it serviced, too. the problem is definitely worse in the humid heat. it did it last summer, the went away in the winter, and now doing it more frequently the hotter it gets outside. not sure what the problem is, I'll be getting some fuel injector cleaner for it after I change the oil this weekend.


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same issues

New owner here. Just bought a 2012 with 900 miles on it. EVERY cold start, not just morning start, (even after work in 90* heat) takes at least 4-5 hits of the starter. Interesting thing is each time I start it, the idle picks up, but cannot sustain. By the time it finally keeps running, the idle is at 2000 for a bit before settling down to 1500.
I have one other fuel injected bike (KTM) and the Throttle Position sensor was mis-set from factory. BUT, the KTM has a fast idle knob (which also is a manual idle adjustment) for cold starts that was hiding it, until I stopped using it. Once I adjusted the TPS it purrs like a angry kitten at start up.

The other issue was a VERY lean map from the factory for US emissions, it is a 50 state legal bike.

This bike was stored over the winter with about half a tank of fuel in it, I assume, since the guy I bought it from said he quit riding it last fall. I am sure, that it had ethanol in it, and wonder about a injector cleaner and fresh gas.
Yesterday after work (i drove the bike at lunch so it had only sat for about 4 hours) I sat on the bike upright before the start and it made no difference. I am down to two bars on the fuel gauge on "his" tank of fuel.

I had planned on getting a fuel controller and full aftermarket exhaust from the get go, so I was wondering if any of you, with the stall problem, have a fuel controller on your bikes? The previous owner did install a Two Brothers slip on exhaust and I am confident made no other adjustments to compensate for the freer flowing exhaust. So it is even leaner now.
The bike is either really lean, or the TPS is off, or I have ethanol gunked in my injector from the time it sat...i think
I have not, in my 50 miles of ownership, had the bike die at a downshift or clutch pull, thankfully.
 

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mine has this problem, just had it serviced, too. the problem is definitely worse in the humid heat. it did it last summer, the went away in the winter, and now doing it more frequently the hotter it gets outside. not sure what the problem is, I'll be getting some fuel injector cleaner for it after I change the oil this weekend.


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In my modest, limited experience, opinion, the hotter less dense air is making your bike run even leaner. Can these bikes not compensate on their own for different air density and altitude? I would think so, but maybe this is a closed loop FI system. I need to look into this. I know in the M4 exhaust I plan on getting, you can order an exhaust bung to mount a sensor for adjustments to mix with fuel controller.
 

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I run 95ron, full exhaust & a power commander v ( no O2 sensor plugged in) & it runs fine, never stalls, no miss fires just press the start & it fires up first go strait to 2000rpm then drops to 1500rpm.
 

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I have the exact same problem on my 2011 cbr250r.
Mine had 17000km on the clock (i got her from 7700km)
It's nothing wrong when the time I bought it.
But now I stalls randomly at first start.
Sometimes it does sometimes not.
And the result seems to differ with the season. (more frequent in winter)
One thing more, rev below 3000rpm is almost unable to use at any gear (rough run)

Before I bought mine, I had rent one. (2013 verson)
And it runs perfectly fine.
It's really a good single-cylinder bike when its normal.

Except for cold start issue, the bike had been weird for two times.
#1. Parked it near a coast, 15min. later it was unable to start.
After minutes it suddenly worked for no reason.
#2. Once it stalled when I was about to wait for traffic light.
and then everything is just like what happened in #1.
otherwise there is only first cold start issue.

I think I'll try rev it up to redline.
 

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I'd try running a strong fuel system cleaner. I like Techron Concentrate. Run 1oz per gal once a year to clean the injector, valves, and combustion chamber.

Also check that the idle speed is correct when the engine is hot.

Make sure the fuel is fresh. Keep the tank as full as possible. Use "Regular" grade gas. Too high of octane will make an engine harder to start if it doesn't require it. Run gas without ethanol if you can get it - it last longer and doesn't contain/hold moisture as much as gas with ethanol.

Occasional runs to redline help clear deposits from the combustion chamber. Just make sure the engine is at full operating temp for a while and the oil type and level are correct. If the engine is maintained properly and up to operating temp you are fine running up to redline.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Also, these bikes like revs. They don't like to run in tip top shape below 3k RPM. Don't lug the engine!
 

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I tried reving up to the limit. It doesn't improve cold start issue.

Then I change the fuel octane number from 95 to 92 (there are 92,95,98 for choice in my country)
92 fuel do a little help.
Engine sounds a bit better when cold start but still stalls sometimes.
And it become more jerky

Is there any thing wrong with fuel injector or sensor unit?
 

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I tried reving up to the limit. It doesn't improve cold start issue.

Then I change the fuel octane number from 95 to 92 (there are 92,95,98 for choice in my country)
92 fuel do a little help.
Engine sounds a bit better when cold start but still stalls sometimes.
And it become more jerky

Is there any thing wrong with fuel injector or sensor unit?
Might have deposits built-up on the injector, which would make it spray a poor pattern and not atomize the fuel properly.

Run some fuel system cleaner.

Techron Concentrate (1oz per gal) is the best IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
B12 is great as well. Only $3 a can at Walfart and works great.
 

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I tried reving up to the limit. It doesn't improve cold start issue.

Then I change the fuel octane number from 95 to 92 (there are 92,95,98 for choice in my country)
92 fuel do a little help.
Engine sounds a bit better when cold start but still stalls sometimes.
And it become more jerky

Is there any thing wrong with fuel injector or sensor unit?
In your previous post you mentioned that the bike has 17,000 km... have the valve clearances been checked/adjusted since the the bike was new? If not, that is something that should definitely be done. Valve clearances that are out of spec can cause hard starting issues.
 

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Might have deposits built-up on the injector, which would make it spray a poor pattern and not atomize the fuel properly.
Run some fuel system cleaner.
Techron Concentrate (1oz per gal) is the best IMO.
I tried 3M fuel injector cleaner 3 times.
It does not nothing better to the start issue
but seems to make the low-rev performance worse each time I add the cleaner.
I'm considering about take the injector out and clean it manualy.

In your previous post you mentioned that the bike has 17,000 km... have the valve clearances been checked/adjusted since the the bike was new? If not, that is something that should definitely be done. Valve clearances that are out of spec can cause hard starting issues.
It takes time to do the inspection.
I'll do it when I have enough freetime.
 
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