I think this is what you say to the customer instead of 'we dont know'.I had my first service done today and was told that the rattle is in the engine and Honda is aware of the problem. Honda told my dealer it is the rocker arms.
I like thatDon't waste your breath, they are not going to do anything unless it's broken. You have to try and break it. It's the only way, I'm not trying to be rude. But, if there is something wrong with the motor, then it will not last and they will have to fix it under warranty. Just to say 'what about this random noise,' they are not going to give you any information.
If I hear something rattle, I just figure it's some plastic. If I think my bike is making a funny noise, I just go faster. Basically, I tried to break it, but at 3800 miles it runs better than new and I expect it will get better still.
Don't worry about your rattle. Enjoy your bike, if it breaks, they'll fix it.
Yes i have the same rattle everyone has 5-6000 rpm some days i ride with no halmet if i'm in town. And yes you can hear it free reving it.So you hear it when revving in neutral or you ride around with no helmet?
If you can't hear it with a helmet on you haven't got the same 5-6k rpm rattle (marbles in a blender) that I had.
OK, here are my findings on the noise issue. Having decided that the PAIR valve was probably the culprit and reading on the 'net that lots of motorcycles have noise associated with this thing, I decided to take mine apart to see what I could see.
In the attached pictures, I think you will notice the marks on the screen that, to me, indicate that it has been bouncing around in there. The screen is supported in three places when mounted and you can see that one of the places looks reasonable but two of them are very shiny and look a bit abraded. The reed valve itself seems well made with lots of attention to reducing noise; neoprene surfaces everywhere.
To address this, I did two things. The first was to carefully bend the screen so that it would 'load up' as the cover was tightened and ensure that the screen would be held as the parts heated up. The second was to put a very slight twist in the reed valve limiter. This is a rather old trick to have the reed twist slightly as it is sucked against the limit and layout quietly rather than smack it all at once.
With these two changes, things improved a great deal but I took it out again and made one more modification. I removed the reed itself and curved it so that it did not smack the port but rather laid out smoothly. Again, this is a rather old trick of my profession. The curve must be very smooth and such that the reed in rest position is about 1/2 way between the port and the limit. Do not use pliers for this; fingers maybe but I used a burnishing tool to 'pull' the curve into it.
Putting it back together, it is very quiet now and I have been running for a few days and find myself using the 5k rpm range a lot more. Previously, I tended to avoid it because of the rattle. I have also noticed that the engine appears much smoother and quieter on startup and I tend to just go rather than warm it up.
Since this issue has been a problem for some bikes and not others, I an inclined to think that the shield rattling around inside is probably the worst offender. Since this is held in place by the valve, a change to either of them would affect the fit.
It is possible to just remove the thing and block the port but that would be increasing the unburnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust. Since I bought the bike to contribute less pollution (among other things), I would like a solution that keeps the valve in operation.
It is very easy to work on the valve; you remove the fairings and lower the radiator and remove two bolts and a hose.
I hope you find this useful.