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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just curious to know if someone on this board has done their own 600 mile service? Is it fairly easy using the manual for our bike? I did all of my maintenance on my last scooter and it was pretty easy but that was a 178cc scooter motor with a CVT tranny and carb. Adjusting the valves on that scoot was ez. I figure it will be tougher to adjust the valves on this bike.

Should I just have the stealership do my first service and do my own maintenance until the 16,000 mile mark?
 

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I did my own 1st service. Check my post on it. I was shocked by how difficult it was to even get to the valves to check them, let alone change shims. I think it would be easier to do if you removed the fuel tank. I've heard that Honda has a new tool for separating the fuel line making it easier to remove the tank. You still have to remove lots of plastic to get that far. If i can get the info about the special tool, I'm told it's some type of clip, I'll post it. If you have a dealer do it, and he actually does it correctly, it will be expensive.
 

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Easy enough to do the oil & filter change, and the other basic 600 mile maintenance items yourself, and have a reputable dealer you trust (there are a few out there) do just the valve clearance inspection. Should save you at least $80.00 to $100.00 by doing the easy stuff yourself. The O/M has all the info, except Valve Clearance, which you would need the Service Manual to perform that yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I was quoted $150 at a Honda dealership in Cleveland. That sounds too good to be true b/c other dealerships wanted upwards of $300 or more. I will do the basic maintenance and have them do the valve clearance, b/c the next one isn't due until 16k miles.

I may even do it myself if it doesn't look too bad in the service manual.

I just placed an order for the manual at Helm. $70.95 shipped.
 

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You do not need to have the bike at the dealership for the 600 mile service to maintain the warranty, if, you take pictures showing the work as you do it.

MLM Law - Lawyer Grimes & Reese PLLC - Attorney Specializing in Multilevel Marketing - Understanding the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
So, as long as madd-trapper takes pic's of his monkey changing the oil and adjusting the valves, he'll be covered as far as warranty... that's cool.

Maybe, he could post up those photo's.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
It's really better to do it yourself b/c if you take it to the dealer it may get scratched up. There is a guy on here who recently had the dealer put a new tire on his gixxer and they put a huge scratch on the rim. He'll probably have a hell of a time getting the dealer to pay for it.

If you do take your bike to the dealer to get serviced make sure you take pics and have them do a pre-inspection report and you will need to check it thoroughly before you leave the dealer.

My salesman told me that they scratch bikes often at his dealership especially when they are being put together and it pisses him off b/c it ends up coming out of the salesman's commission b/c the customer obviously will want a nice discount for any scratches on the new bike. You would think they would penalize the assembler rather than the salesman b/c the assembler will continue to be careless.

The only person you can trust with your bike is yourself. Take the time to learn how to service your bike. I hope to educate myself and put in the work.
 

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If you don't know what you're doing with your valves prepare to pay a lot more than the valve adjustment at the dealer.

Only do it if you're comfortable and patient if you're a first timer.
Have the tools as well. Magnetic pickup tools help a lot. Ask me how I know.:p
 

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So, as long as madd-trapper takes pic's of his monkey changing the oil and adjusting the valves, he'll be covered as far as warranty... that's cool.

Maybe, he could post up those photo's.:D
My monkey would crack Dudu in the head with his cheap generic torque wrench. He's feelin bloody.
 

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If you don't know what you're doing with your valves prepare to pay a lot more than the valve adjustment at the dealer.

Only do it if you're comfortable and patient if you're a first timer.
Have the tools as well. Magnetic pickup tools help a lot. Ask me how I know.:p
^Sound advise. Going into the motor, even for "just" the valve adjustment, may not be the best thing for a first timer to cut his motorcycle maintenance teeth on. If it's not done right, and something goes south, you could end up with a hefty repair bill that warranty won't cover. Manufacturer's can and do deny warranty claims for issues related to maintenance items performed incorrectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
If you don't know what you're doing with your valves prepare to pay a lot more than the valve adjustment at the dealer.

Only do it if you're comfortable and patient if you're a first timer.
Have the tools as well. Magnetic pickup tools help a lot. Ask me how I know.:p
When I had the scooter I just took the feeler gauges and adjusted them to the correct measurements. How do you do it on this bike? I hear you have to replace the shims.

From what I hear the hardest part is getting to the valves which will not be a problem for me as I have a lot of patience and I'm very methodical and well organized. I will treat this engine like a brain surgeon. As long as the manual tells me the right thing to do I will accomplish it. I love a challenge. I will be doing a video of it and posting it on youtube.

I thought removing the rear wheel and putting it back on was going to be difficult but it wasn't. I followed the owner's manual step by step and it was cake.

Btw, that Harbor frieght torque wrench worked perfectly even at low torque settings. Best $15.99 I ever spent.
 

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Luckily on the CBR you don't have to remove the cams to get to the shims.

You need to remove the valve buckets and get to the shims underneath. The shims need to measured and you need to replace the shims with new shims that alter the valve measurements you took with your feeler gauges. Some dealers have free shim exchanges as mine does. Most make you buy them. You can also get a kit for 7.48mm shims.

Still could take a bit of time if you don't have a shim kit and have to go over to the dealer mid job to get the shims. Unless you wanna measure and close it all up, then open it up all over again.
 

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When I had the scooter I just took the feeler gauges and adjusted them to the correct measurements. How do you do it on this bike? I hear you have to replace the shims.

From what I hear the hardest part is getting to the valves which will not be a problem for me as I have a lot of patience and I'm very methodical and well organized. I will treat this engine like a brain surgeon. As long as the manual tells me the right thing to do I will accomplish it. I love a challenge. I will be doing a video of it and posting it on youtube.

I thought removing the rear wheel and putting it back on was going to be difficult but it wasn't. I followed the owner's manual step by step and it was cake.

Btw, that Harbor frieght torque wrench worked perfectly even at low torque settings. Best $15.99 I ever spent.
Do what you want, but I'd leave the YouTube Video to someone who has more than just a few valve adjustments under their belt. I'll be blunt here... a guy putting up a "How To" on PD is one thing, a newbie doing the same on a technical topic is a whole lot different. Three words... Not Too Cool. If you need to do it for ego gratification, more power to ya.
 

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I am hoping to take pics when I get to it. Maybe a video, but it will be hard to do that and work on it myself. Maybe a video the second time if I can find someone to take it for me.:)

A valve adjustment is a lot more work than taking off a wheel. That's easy.:p

Lots of things can go wrong(like dropping a feeler gauge into the engine:D), so I wouldn't say it's something to take too lightly. It will take A LOT longer than you expect the first time.

Our bikes have plenty of plastic to take off as well. You will need some extra tools as well. A smaller torque wrench helps a lot as well. You will need a calliper or micrometer to measure the shims as well.

And some beer for after.:D
 

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just remember shop rates are as such. $70/hr if we do it. $140/hr if we have to fix what you started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thank you all for the advice and tips.

I've read the service manual and the valve clearance job doesn't seem too bad. I will read the steps over about 10 more times, dissect each instruction and ask questions on here or research on the web.

I understand the main problem that can occur is dropping a shim into the engine case or a tool or other object. I will treat this as if I were a brain surgeon.

Here are the parts that I need for the 600 mile service, please let me know if I'm missing something:

Oil change:

-Shell Rotella T5 10w30 semi-synth oil
-Honda oil filter
-Honda gasket
-Sealing washer

Valve Clearance:
-Cylinder Head cover sealant
-O ring for the Timing hole cap and the crankshaft holecap
-Cylinder head packing
-Shim kit (7.48 mm)
-sealing washer
-molybdenum oil solution (apply to rocker arm inner surface, slipper surface and rocker arm shaft outer surface)
-Cylinder head packing

Special Tools needed for Valve Clearance job:
-Timing cap wrench
-Feeler gauges (already have a set)
-Magnet or tweezers (To remove shims)
-6mm bolt (to remove the rocker arm shaft)

Service Chain:
-Chain cleaner
-Chain lube (Dupont Chain Saver is recommended)
-Chain brush
 

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