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Discussion Starter #1
First, the people who locktite the barend weights are evil sadistic basterds :D
I literally broke the tip of the screwdriver trying to unfasten these things. I had to resort to the impact driver.

Second, the throttle tube has a flange on both ends. I had to file them down so the new grip could slide on.

Finally, my bike now has heated grips for winter. These are from Oxford and have a cool control module that attaches to the clutch perch rather than a traditional off/low/high switch. The little control box has on/off and + & - for four temp settings. 30%, 40%, 75% and 100% power.





On Edit: Yes the control module clears the fairing :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I forgot one other mod I did to make these work.
The kit comes ready to connect directly to the battery. Their manual says the grips will turn themselves off if they sense battery voltage drop below 11.something.

This is nice but I thought I could do better so I cut the ring terminals (and inline fuse holder) off the ends of the wires and crimped on some spade connectors and hooked the grips up via a fuse box/relay combo so when the bike is off, the grips are off.

The relay is connected to a 3 lead fuse box, one lead non switched (for my SAE pigtail) and two switched leads (one for grips, one for future possibilities) which is why I removed the inline fuse holder from the grips.
If I had just a relay, I would have kept the fuse holder but it's taken care of by the fuse box :)
 

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Can anyone tell me if the fairing diverts the wind past your hands?
Would hand guards be a useful addition along with heated grips?
(I have both on my BMW.)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Grips were $80.00 not including shipping.

I don't think I can post a link to the place I bought them from since they're not sponsors of this site.

I'll just say "google Twisted Throttle"

The fairing in my opinion doesn't divert a whole lot of air from the hands. It's too narrow. The only bike I know of that does that is the deceased Buell 1125R with the wide fairing.
The Honda does direct the air around the hands wayyy better than a naked bike though :) Plus when you consider how much wind is kept off your torso, that helps keep the hands warmer just by having your core warmer.
I don't think hand guards would clear the fairing/shield but I could be wrong. At the very least I imagine hand guards could be trimmed to clear it. I've seen a few folks do something like that on their BMW F800STs.
 

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Yep, it's twisted throttle (I put these exact grips on my wife's 250R a couple of weeks ago):

TwistedThrottle.com : Oxford Heaterz Heated Motorcycle Handlebar Grips for 7/8-inch Diameter Handlebars (Sports Style) - OXF.26.0696

A few tips on install:
(1) You don't have to wrestle with the bar-ends. If you just loosen the screws a few turns, that *should* release the internal part holding it in such that you can pull the whole thing out pretty easily (and the reverse is true as well - 'tightening' the screw expands the piece inside so that it holds/stays in once you've got your new grips on).
(2) You may have to cut away the little plastic piece on the end of the throttle to get the right grip on. It doesn't hurt anything to do so, and makes life a little easier.
(3) No need to use glue or lubricant. Use a spray of rubbing alcohol, and the grips slip right on. Once the alcohol dries, they're locked in good.

Total time takes about 30 minutes (assuming connecting straight to the battery... tossing in a relay will be a little longer, but is certainly commendable).
 

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Heated grips and bar ends

I bought the Moose Heated Grip kit from MC Superstore. It is the same kit I put on my Versys and put new Red 120 MM Pro Grip - 724 Dual Density Road grips on at the same time. They turned out to be a good choice. Installation was straightforward. I removed all the raised retainers from the Honda throttle tube with a knife, file and sandpaper to get a smooth, clean tube. I installed the heater elements, did the wiring, and then installed the new grips with soapy water. Getting the bar ends off was easy with the tools shown in the photo. I improvised a clamp to hold the bar ends with a piece of srap 3/4 inch ply wood and used my old fashioned impact driver and they came right off.
 

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Thanks for the tip, Metalstorm! Just ordered the Oxford grips... these should make riding much more comfortable. Would you be able to post pics of the relay setup? I'd like to make extra security that it offers.

My hands were so cold this morning that I could barely get my helmet off at the office. :D
 

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Bump, Just bought a pair of these, Thanks for the thread guys.

Good to see that little mount fitted as well :D
 

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Well mine are on, But don't seem to work at all.

What a freaken tight fit, I was hoping to remove them when I sell the bike in 4 months, but they wont come off at all, Didn't even need to glue them.

But my issue is I get a green light on them, and thats it, No LED for temperature, and no heat from them.

Have you guys had any issues at all?

I tested all the wiring and it all seems ok, The grips are not short circuited or anything.

I have yet to test them at revs, only at idle.

I spent a good couple of hours on them putting the wiring in some tubing and making it all super neat, then forgot the +12v trigger wire for them as I will run them from a relay lol.
 

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Turns out my controller is buggered, Bike shop gave me a new one to install and take the old one back to them :D
 

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Woo woo all finished, Used a nice mini 30a 12v relay to trigger them, Wired it into one of the parker lights for my 12v trigger.

Pics

That loom running along the frame is the wiring for it all up front



Controller mounted using the included mount, Clears the screen and doesnt foul on anything.


Wires and relay next to the battery.
 
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Does anyone have a photo of which switch wire they used for the relay? would the wire for the rear break running light work (redish colour)? I'd hate to go cutting into wires to find one around the battery area.

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you use posi-taps you won't have to cut any wires.
Do a search for posi-taps & posi-connectors. They make electrical projects easy and secure.

As for the wire, I tapped into the red running light wire on my US bike
I don't know if all countries run the same color schemes but I imagine they would.
 

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I was worried the small battery on this bike may cause the heated grips (on full power) to drain the battery if the RPM's are not kept above 5000 (as I believe this is when the battery can provide charge)?

What if I'm in very slow heavy traffic and can't filter much, and my RPMs are under 5000 with these Oxford heated grips on max? Will it not drain the battery?
 

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If you use posi-taps you won't have to cut any wires.
Do a search for posi-taps & posi-connectors. They make electrical projects easy and secure.

As for the wire, I tapped into the red running light wire on my US bike
I don't know if all countries run the same color schemes but I imagine they would.
I would expect so, however in doing some web checking Honda was using the green+yellow wire for the running light power and the red(brownish) wire for the break light, and of course green for ground.

Thanks for the tip on the posi-taps, I'll look for some this weekend. I was going to cut the wire, soder in a connector and use heat shrink tubing to make it nice.
 
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