Page one of the article you quoted states:
"The reason the old-timer may suggest thicker oil is because in older engines with higher tolerances, thicker oils were necessary to keep oil pressure up. Others believe the use of higher viscosity oils results in better protection because high-performance engines are harder on oil. This isn't true in modern engines, and using oil thicker than specified can actually harm an engine. Internal oil passages and galleys may not be large enough to allow thicker oils to penetrate and flow as well, which can possibly cause starvation. In fact, many race teams use the thinnest oil possible to gain extra horsepower by lowering the parasitic losses that occur when using thicker-than-necessary oil. The higher film strength offered by synthetic base stocks helps racing engines survive even endurance races when running ultra-lightweight oils. Of course, these engines are typically rebuilt after each race, so we do not suggest using a racing oil in your streetbike. Refer to your owner's manual and use the viscosity of oil corresponding to your riding conditions as specified by the manufacturer. The manuals often have a table with various temperatures allowing you to select the right viscosity."
That's says - don't go up in oil weight unless it's required.
Here's a Mobil 1 chart that lists the amounts of Zinc and Phosphorus in each of their oils:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
That shows that auto Mobil1 10W-30 has only 800 ppm Phosphorus and 900 ppm Zinc. That's not great news if you have solid lifters/rockers/followers like most cycles do. For cars with roller lifters, it's adequate.
If you want to use Mobil 1 in a 30-grade oil, the Mobil1 High Mileage has better levels (1000/1100). The 0W-30 Racing is the best (1750/1850), especially if you were looking for maximum mileage, and would be worth a try. The 0W isn't a problem, rather it's an advantage. If you start-up the engine below 50 F a 10W conventional oil isn't a very good choice. 10W synthetic is better, but 5W or 0W is far superior in low temps. Oils with low "W" ratings flow better and easier all the way up to their top rating (30) - that's how they give you better mileage. Most of the time they are somewhere in between the low and the high rating.
I'm not overly concerned about the Friction Modifies that may cause clutch slipping, it's the low levels of Phosphorus and Zinc, and the possible damage to cams and lifters/rockers/followers, that are the problem with current auto oils.
Jay