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"IT... dropped off more" ? Which dropped off more? You are missing the point. The Motul 300V 10W40 was one of the best in the test. The 5W40 showed a higher amount of loss in viscosity. Will the 5W30 be among the best or the worst. Who knows. Apparently every different blend of the same brand can test very differently.

i was trying to explain to you why the VI dropped on the 5-40 more than the 1040.. let my clarify. each oil uses the same base stock. (esters in 300v's case) the difference is the molecules that are added to each one that change shape to do heat. (contract when cold) the test used to get the Viscosity index is called the HTHS test. high temp, high shear test. the oil and apparatus are heated and the test is ran. the lack of zinc in the motul (only 1047ppm vs 1600 in amsoil) leads to more metal to metal contact. which leads to even more heat. that cause the oil to break down faster. it just happens that the molecules they use for the 5 40 weight are more susceptible to these conditions. Add sinc and phospurus to the mix. (zddP) and it will COMPLETELY change the test results. this is indeed the best route to go as Ester base stocks are hands down the best. even new grade 6 oils arent as good.

thats what my analysis has shown anyways. take it for what its worth.
 

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Deed is done! It felt good, although it would have felt better had I taken the time to remove the R-H fairing panel.
I cheated and just removed the rear screws on the belly pan, and pulled it out as far as I could. My fingers are not small enough, and I think they are about as small as they come.

Got the clock in the car changed, too. I just this second remembered there is a clock on the bike. But I'll bet it is still on Daylight Savings Time! :)
 

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Wow, I was just out shopping for oil, and all I could find was 10w40! Sort of freaked me out. I thought I really needed 10-30. I'll make a note in my service manual. Silly Honda. Back to the store!

Thanks everyone. (I know, I should have changed it last Fall...)
Look for Shell Rotella T5 semi-synthetic 10W-30. It's a diesel oil, so it has good levels of additives you want (ZDDP), and none of the ones you don't (Friction Modifiers).

I like it a lot better than GN4 or a 10W-40 for the CBR.

Best idea is to always change it before storing for maximum protection from internal corrosion while it's sitting.
 

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Well it's not your fault that you haven't read your manual well that you don't understand what you're supposed to do after all the only took your test and only told about these things at the time of your lessons. You should know that multigrade oil need to be changed depending on the time of year and if it gets above 30 degrees in the country that you live in then you need to switch up your oil to deal with that and in this case 10w 40 is the oil that you would be using if your vehicle normally has 10w 30. Every manufacturer on the planet tells you this and puts a graph in their manuals which tell you which greater use at what temperatures is not about the name of the oil it's about the temperature and where you're using it your comment is naive and just shows how little you know about the subject. You should do what the manual tells you to do and I know for a fact that every vehicle on the planet Falls under the same rules thicker oil in the summer been at oils in winter simple as that.
comment is literally naivety at its
QUOTE="qlred, post: 27764, member: 248"]
I've only used the 10-30. My car takes 5-20, would I put 10-40 in there- no. It's a modern motor with tight tolerances. Thicker oil may decrease gas mileage. The bikes in India say 10-40 is good I think.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Not sure if it's supply problems from the pandemic or not, but I had a difficult time trying to find GN4 or Rotella T in stock anywhere this year locally. My local Walmart had no Rotella at all on their shelves and even if you could find GN4 online it was a lot more expensive than it was this time last year.
 

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All of the temp-based factory oil recommendations are based on conventional engine oil.

A synthetic 10W-30 is totally fine to run in 100F temps - it's not going to breakdown. Water-cooled engines are much less stressed in high temps than air-cooled engines, and should not run dangerously hot if the cooling system is operating properly. Synthetic oil can take extreme heat much better than conventional oil.

I'll take a thinner synthetic oil over a heavier conventional oil every time.
 
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