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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those not so mechanically inclined, you may not want to do this.

I ordered it through this site and the guy's name is Chris. He was absolutely spot on and though he was backordered with sales, he walked down from his shop to Hotbodies to secure one for me.

Buy them from him and if they are not in stock, shoot him an email and tell him that Andrew sent you.

--> http://www.ebay.com/itm/HOTBODIES-T...0-R-ABS-BRAND-NEW-/110766329558#ht_2048wt_948

This took me a roughly 5 hours to complete but I learned a lot about my bike in the process.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
^ Law states we gotta have 'em.

It's a 2 second deal if I wanted to remove them. They are bolted on separately rather than being apart of the kit.
 

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Looks alot better with out that thing Honda attached to the rear of the bike. Dont know what Honda thinking when they came up with that fender. i modifed my stock one, It still looks stock, without the uglyness
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
^ the sticker?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just an FYI, Hotbodies no longer sends paper instructions for their kits but I have a scanned copy on my desktop. If anyone needs a paper copy, send me a pm and I will email it to you as an attachment.
 

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i like it, if i do this i will be leaving the turn signals also.
 

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FYI anyone that goes with the hotbodies fender eliminator, it is much easier to remove the last bolt for the rear subframe if you remove the tail light all together. If you watch the video online Liz tells you to use a short 12mm wrench and work with the tight space. I have no idea why you would do it that way when you can remove the tail light by pulling it out. Then you have clear access to the bolt and can get to it with a socket. Those 3 bolts are on there tight, you are going to need all the torque you can get to break the free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
^ I got that tricky SOB with some liquid wrench and a lot of arm torque! Took about 30 minutes of pure fidgeting.
 

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FYI anyone that goes with the hotbodies fender eliminator, it is much easier to remove the last bolt for the rear subframe if you remove the tail light all together. If you watch the video online Liz tells you to use a short 12mm wrench and work with the tight space. I have no idea why you would do it that way when you can remove the tail light by pulling it out. Then you have clear access to the bolt and can get to it with a socket. Those 3 bolts are on there tight, you are going to need all the torque you can get to break the free.

There was a few things that I found she said wrong in the video that were clearly not the way my bike was/
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There was a few things that I found she said wrong in the video that were clearly not the way my bike was/
Can anyone help me fix this brake light issue? The front brake triggers the light but the back does not! Both turn signals and the plate light are operational but I still can not fix this issue.
 

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Started working on this last night. My bike is in pieces in the garage right now.. :(
I'm almost finished. I have everything wired up, I just can't get the taillight to fit back into its spot!
 

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Hi all. I did this installation a month ago, but ended up reverting back.

The reason being the bracket which the indicator signal bolts on to is too soft. The result is that when you go over small bumps or rough patches or when the bike is reving hard, the vibration causes the indicators to vibrate quite alot.

i.e from the back it looks like the bike has flapping ears. Has anyone else noticed this? I would really like to eliminate the fender but not at the expense of having the bike looking silly when its moving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Started working on this last night. My bike is in pieces in the garage right now.. :(
I'm almost finished. I have everything wired up, I just can't get the taillight to fit back into its spot!
Can you snap a photo of the wire harness after you connect everything? Just fidget the taillight. It will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi all. I did this installation a month ago, but ended up reverting back.

The reason being the bracket which the indicator signal bolts on to is too soft. The result is that when you go over small bumps or rough patches or when the bike is reving hard, the vibration causes the indicators to vibrate quite alot.

i.e from the back it looks like the bike has flapping ears. Has anyone else noticed this? I would really like to eliminate the fender but not at the expense of having the bike looking silly when its moving.
^ $20 part to fix that or just add a zip tie.
 

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^ $20 part to fix that or just add a zip tie.
Ive had the hot bodies eliminator on mine since it came out. Be carfeful with the turn signals. The bracket they provide is too thin and mine has cracked almost all the way through, the vibration has taken too much effect. You might want to have one fabricated from aluminum or weld one yourself out of thin guage steel as i have done. Though soon i myself will be installing an integrated taillight with blinkers and just do away with the rear signals. Also found mirrors with signals for the front, then i will install the flush mount kit so you can see the front indicators from the side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^^ They added a few more pieces to help build structure.
 

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Still. There are a few flaws with the design i had to correct. Like the liscence plate bracket. Had to drill holes in back so i could change my liscense plate if i ever need to. And that bracket was not well thought out. It looks great for what it cost though.
 
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