Honda CBR 250 Forum banner

81 - 90 of 90 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Going to stick to the service manual intervals. Seems good enough to me. Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic.
I use the exact same oil for my STI, EX5, and CBR. It's expensive, but it's cheaper than the Amsoil (which my car seems to heavily favor) and my vehicles have been very happy with it. It seems like the perfect oil for SoCal conditions and spirited/track use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
i have +70 mpg (in summer 2.9 liter per 100km in winder around 3.3)allways with my Honda cbr 250r 2015 model. and thats in heavy traffic riding in a 20 million popullated city with narrow curvy heavy traffıc roads.

Do proper maintenance on your bike and changing oil every 8000 km by book is just for you to destroy your engine and buy new bike. find cheap synthetic oil you can do as i did ;get castrol power 1 in mass quantity (6.2 dollar for a liter) and change every 2000 -3000 km

clean lube chain after every fuel depot filling. have clean filters .

CBR 250r has the most optimum power, torque, echonomy ,ratio. Honda has 12 distinctive patent just for its engine. there is serious engineering in there.

If you have accelaration issues for escaping from incoming cars from behind i can suggest you to improve your skills as such as clutch ,throttle control and practices for widening your view and improving your awerness.

any bike that has similiar fuel echonomy will probaby not have significantly higher acceleration than cbr 250r . I suggest you to ride the bike you are going to buy first. try a month bike rental for example.

best wishes
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,913 Posts
... Do proper maintenance on your bike and changing oil every 8000 km by book is just for you to destroy your engine and buy new bike. find cheap synthetic oil you can do as i did ;get castrol power 1 in mass quantity (6.2 dollar for a liter) and change every 2000 -3000 km...
Actually, Honda's recommended oil change interval is stated in the Owner's Manual as every 8000 miles (12,900 km's), or once a year whichever comes first. For those owners who really rack up the miles on their bikes over the course of a riding season/year, I think 8000 miles (12,900 km's) is too long of an interval between oil changes, particularly given the fact that the CBR250R crankcase holds less than 2 liters of oil.

And while I agree regarding doing proper maintenance, I'm of the opinion that changing the engine oil every 2000 - 3000 km's (1240 - 1860 miles) is a waste of perfectly good serviceable oil, especially so if you're using a high quality, full synthetic oil. An interval of 3500 - 4500 miles (5600 - 7200 km's) would seem more reasonable for those who put on a lot of miles per year. That said, many owners (myself included) fall short of those seasonal mileage numbers, and so should be going with the "once a year" minimum interval for oil & oil filter changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I'm of the opinion that changing the engine oil every 2000 - 3000 km's (1240 - 1860 miles) is a waste of perfectly good serviceable oil, especially so if you're using a high quality, full synthetic oil. An interval of 3500 - 4500 miles (5600 - 7200 km's) would seem more reasonable for those who put on a lot of miles per year. .
Actually its not .

i am engineer i talk based on tested results.

i have friend who is motorcycle mechanic and sometimes i repair / revive bikes with him.

When you change your oil every 2k-3k internal of your engine becomes super clean that increases engine life about % 15 -% 20. when you multiply % 20 with the cost of replacing your engine ( go ask your car mechanic how much it would cost) and by % 10 of your engine replacement cost you can afford easily 2k-3k oil change. Even you do it with cheap oils your engine becomes cleaner and when you went to breakdown to replace engine parts ,you simply replace far less parts and actually save money.

Only hinderance is that you have to change your oil frequently which is extra effort and time .

i change the oil and filter of my bike myself. if you are doing same you can also buy oil from direct distributor with big quantity for cheaper price.

Tip: same occurance also apply to cars. if you replace your oil by %25 km of the suggested amount you save engine life and part.

All manufacturers are same ; they all tell you "sufficent "or"average" care maintenance for your belongings. No manufacturer wants a bike ,car ,fridge ,shaver ect to last forever they just want you to buy again of same item in couple year(because they are all capitalist). When you can open inside of what they produce and sale to you and able to take countermeasures for their "planned obsolence" (go check that term what it means its a very long article) your property will last longer with less cost.

for example : to improve life of the sockets i sokaed all of them with wd 40 and covered with electric insulation tape. which will cover them with oil firm delay / inhibit oxidation and cover against water . so no more socket replacement issues for me nor short circuit issues. This trick is not even written in service manual.

as conclusion i suggest no one to replace oil every 8000 miles (oh my god you will kill your engine seriously and how come it writes 8000 miles in your user manual ? mine says 8000 km.) if you just dont want to bother with frequent oil replacement 5000 kilo meter should be your max out limit. Also as maximum every 10k you should change your oil filter.

side story:well ...according to my mechanic friend he actually poured salt instead of oil into hondacbr250r and run for 2000km . As he told me this bike(cbr250r) will even run with salt instead of oil .... ofc i did not tried myself :laugh::laugh::laugh:

i hope this information will be useful for you. Also make your own research about it . Check with real results. Make calculations and see how it would be. According to my calculations in my country it will be beneficial. ( i dont know about your country. if oil costs alot and engine parts are cheap it might be useless for you its like chain maintenance vs chain replacement issue)

Best regards
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,913 Posts
@MG83... you may want to educate yourself further on the subject, and have a read through of the threads listed here: http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-service-maintenance/28497-engine-oil-thread-index.html

Honestly, I don't have the time nor the inclination to reply to all the incredulous misinformation in your last post. I will point out that I too am an engineer... a Mechanical Engineer, with a particular focus on automotive engineering. I've also worked on motorcycles for more than 40 years, both professionally as well as on my own personal bikes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,774 Posts
OK - I'll bite...

Oil change intervals have a lot of variables. The type and quality of the oil, the amount of oil in the engine, the time it takes for the engine to reach operating temp, the time it stays at operating temp - just to name a few. Eventually the additive package becomes depleted, the oil collects too many impurities, or the oil loses viscosity and should be changed.

I will say I tend to use top-notch synthetic oil and change it before the recommended interval - most of the time. That's mostly due to short trips in cold temps. That is hard on oil. Running cold is hard on oil.

In the summer it's different. Intervals can generally be longer. The oil reaches temp faster and stays there longer. Hotter is better to a point - especially with synthetic oil.

The issue I have with the CBR is the small amount in the sump. That taxes the oil and increases shearing, which is already an issue in a cycle trans. Even in warm temps, I would say going half the recommended interval is plenty, and using at least a synthetic blend like Rotella T5 10W-30 (or full synthetic) is a good idea over a conventional oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,879 Posts
Sounds like you could just use table salt instead of that expensive blinker fluid... :wink2:
I could; but salt is $0.39 for a pound, and blinker fluid is $0.99 a gallon, so for now I stick with the liquid. Going to poke at it right after I finish my exhaust bearings. :smile2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
OK - I'll bite...

Oil change intervals have a lot of variables. The type and quality of the oil, the amount of oil in the engine, the time it takes for the engine to reach operating temp, the time it stays at operating temp - just to name a few. Eventually the additive package becomes depleted, the oil collects too many impurities, or the oil loses viscosity and should be changed.

I will say I tend to use top-notch synthetic oil and change it before the recommended interval .
That's mostly due short trips in cold temps. That is hard on oil. Running cold is hard on oil.

In the summer it's different. Intervals can generally be longer.
The oil reaches temp faster and stays there longer. Hotter is better to a point - especially with synthetic oil.

The issue I have with the CBR is the small amount in the sump. That taxes the oil and increases shearing, which is already an issue in a cycle trans. Even in warm temps, I would say going half the recommended interval is plenty, and using at least a synthetic blend like Rotella T5 10W-30 (or full synthetic) is a good idea over a conventional oil.
Okay I will throw in my 500ml view?
As a qualified Chief Engineer on sea going vessels/offshore self propelled rigs from 1977 to 2015, after 38 years of spanner working on slow speed two stroke diesels to medium speed and hi-speed diesel propulsion and generating plant, if you ever have a mechanical failure it is always lack of lubrication.

Marine plant have oil filters and also have centrifugal oil purifiers, now whenever you freshen the engine oil (Drain 15%, fill with 15% new oil) Your filters block up and you need clean your purifier, "Why" it is because the fresh oil has detergents in it to help clean the engine, so anything sticky inside your engine will be flushed out to the filter.

This is why with my cars I used to drain the oil, fill with flushing oil, drain and then change filter.

Before I change the oil on my bikes, I check how it feels between my fingers.

I have magnets around my filter cover, cheap enough to buy from aliexpress.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PC-Engine-Oil-Filter-Filtration-Magnets-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Ap25-Fpr-Motorcycle-Oil-Filters-ATV-SUV/32801914378.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.S3BtqQ

Changing your filter every time you do an oil change to me is a must, but, I change the filter a few days after the oil change.

Free flowing lubrication is the life blood of an engine
 
81 - 90 of 90 Posts
Top