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You can put in gear and roll bike backwards to tighten upper run of chain. Then measure distance between 24 pins. Brand new-chain measures to exactly 15". Wear limit is 15-3/32". If it measures more than that between 24 pins, time to replace.
 

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Hi all!

I was planning to clean and lube my chain when I noticed that the chain looks very loose and I think at the end of it's life:


Also, I bought this 108 link chain in 2016 and I think it's good.

Can I have your thoughts?

Thanks!
Hey, you bought a good chain, at reasonable price too.
The easiest way to spot a chain that has ended its life is to do slack test: Turn the wheel to a few different points, and if the slack is not uniform at such a level that it is no longer possible to get the allowed slack range (20-30mm), it's time to replace it. And it is possible to pre-replace even when not exceeding the allowable slack range, in order to maintain the uniformity of the power transmission, etc.
From the picture you took, this one:
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Vehicle Vehicle registration plate

From your "ruler", yes, even from the "ruler" you can see that it is time to replace the chain.

To replace a chain you will need a special tool that pulls out the penis (Breaks the chain), and then crushes the new pins into place. You already have such a tool? Do you have previous experience working with a similar tool?

My Tip1: It is always worth **checking on this occasion what is the condition of the slider Part no': 52170-KYJ-900 (Link to Partzilla)
**At the OWNER'S MANUAL P.66
Font Publication Poster Parallel Paper

Tip 2: What is the condition of the gears(Front & Rear)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Happy Friday!!

From your "ruler", yes, even from the "ruler" you can see that it is time to replace the chain.
Ok, you're right, it's clearly time to replace. I bought the same chain and it will arrive today, thanks.

To replace a chain you will need a special tool that pulls out the penis (Breaks the chain), and then crushes the new pins into place. You already have such a tool? Do you have previous experience working with a similar tool?
is the word really penis? I've chaged two chains before, the first time using a cheap dirt bike chain that actually broke on me at a slow speed thank god 🙄 and then the second time with this current chain. I used some kind of saw to brake the old chain and then I used this mini chain press tool to put the new one on:

Font Plant Tree Airplane Paper



My Tip1: It is always worth **checking on this occasion what is the condition of the slider Part no': 52170-KYJ-900 (Link to Partzilla)
**At the OWNER'S MANUAL P.66 [/QUOTE]

thanks, I've never thought of doing this.

Tip 2: What is the condition of the gears(Front & Rear)?[/QUOTE]

I have a spare front sprocket and haven't checked the gears at all yet to see if the teeth are worn.


I think ultimately I have too much work to do that I feel comfortable with and it's been a while since I had a tune up. When I get my chain in, I'll have a repair shop do everything.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You will want all new sprockets as well.

A worn sprocket will put additional stress on the new chain, and make it wear much quicker. It may also cause additional noise and a "jumping" as you spin the wheel.
Thanks. The shop ordered me new sprockets and will replace my chain and sprockets.

They said my slider was fine (from the earlier post).
 

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Hi all!

I was planning to clean and lube my chain when I noticed that the chain looks very loose and I think at the end of it's life:


Also, I bought this 108 link chain in 2016 and I think it's good.

Can I have your thoughts?

Thanks!
Yes definitely, chain is looking in very poor condition
 

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Might want to implement regular chain cleaning & lubing routine. I lube every other tank, clean once a month. I like to use wax-based lube after cleaning with kerosene. Original chain is not stretched straight, some links are kinked, indicating lack of smooth rotation around pins. Increases wear significantly.



JT, long-time maker of sprockets, has their own X-ring chain now. I'm going to try it next time around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Might want to implement regular chain cleaning & lubing routine. I lube every other tank, clean once a month. I like to use wax-based lube after cleaning with kerosene. Original chain is not stretched straight, some links are kinked, indicating lack of smooth rotation around pins. Increases wear significantly.



JT, long-time maker of sprockets, has their own X-ring chain now. I'm going to try it next time around.
thanks for the tip. Wow, ok I definitely do not lube or clean anywhere close to as much as you do 😅

This chain has lasted me from July 1, 2016.

these are what I use:
Liquid Paint Automotive tire Fluid Personal care
 

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thanks for the tip. Wow, ok I definitely do not lube or clean anywhere close to as much as you do 😅

This chain has lasted me from July 1, 2016.

these are what I use: View attachment 45513
Hey Mersine. Do not clean chain with O-Ring or X-Ring with WD-40. This may destroy the grease trapped inside to reduce friction in the pins that connect the chain links.

The cheapest The simplest and most conservative chain lube is lubrication with gear oil (thick oil): SAE90.
One liter of gear oil is enough for more than ten years:
Liquid Automotive tire Bottle Plastic bottle Gas

  • This is ideal for oiling every fuel tank (every about 250 km).
  • No need to overdo the amount, I lubricate the chain in two rounds (of course Engine Off ☠💀).
  • The transmission oil has another feature that it cleans the chain, and there is no longer need for a chain cleaning job (the dirt does not stick to it, and the new oil "washes out" the existing dirt).
  • cleaning? Yes, maybe once a year, cleaning the chain guard, and the area of the small gear.
  • Those who go on trips take a tiny container of gear oil with them, it is a very small amount of oil, maybe 30 cc that is enough for at least ten lubrication cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Hey Mersine. Do not clean chain with O-Ring or X-Ring with WD-40. This may destroy the grease trapped inside to reduce friction in the pins that connect the chain links.

The cheapest The simplest and most conservative chain lube is lubrication with gear oil (thick oil): SAE90.
One liter of gear oil is enough for more than ten years:
View attachment 45514
  • This is ideal for oiling every fuel tank (every about 250 km).
  • No need to overdo the amount, I lubricate the chain in two rounds (of course Engine Off ☠💀).
  • The transmission oil has another feature that it cleans the chain, and there is no longer need for a chain cleaning job (the dirt does not stick to it, and the new oil "washes out" the existing dirt).
  • cleaning? Yes, maybe once a year, cleaning the chain guard, and the area of the small gear.
  • Those who go on trips take a tiny container of gear oil with them, it is a very small amount of oil, maybe 30 cc that is enough for at least ten lubrication cycles.
My bad, yes I never use WD-40, that just happened to be in the box 😅 though I do use WD-40 on my bicycle chain sometimes.

I'll definitely get SAE90 next, thanks for the tip!

edit:

is this the same thing or similar enough to SAE90?

Hand Liquid Fluid Gesture Plastic bottle
 

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My bad, yes I never use WD-40, that just happened to be in the box 😅 though I do use WD-40 on my bicycle chain sometimes.

I'll definitely get SAE90 next, thanks for the tip!

edit:

is this the same thing or similar enough to SAE90?

View attachment 45515
No. multi purpose oil is much thinner compared to SAE90
But it is better than not lubricating at all. It holds less and its less friction prevention performance.
 
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