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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hmmm...well, that's not good news...

The part that threw me was it seemed to spin over manually without extreme effort.

Probably another victim of the "backwards oil filter" installation.
I wouldn’t be surprised. The good news is that the new oil filter was installed correctly… Not that it helps at this point LOL.

New motor ordered And will do a tear down and cleaning of the rest of the bike while I wait for it along with some other parts like a desperately needed chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Get a 300 engine! :)
I seriously considered it, but the prices were double over the deal I got for this 250 motor with 6k miles on it - that doesn't count for the ECU or tuner I'd need. I'll salvage the damaged motor and who knows... Maybe rebuild it and bore it out for fun. Always wanted to do a complete engine rebuild. For now though, this 250 will perfectly serve its purpose as a cheap track bike to get me back out there :) Front suspension work might be next, but we will see after it is up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Stripped down more of the bad motor today in preparation to split the case (waiting on a tool to come in tomorrow). Was able to drain out metallic and sludgy oil from the bottom end. Even though the PO paid for an oil change (indeed, fresh oil was in there), I am beginning to believe it wasn't necessarily an oil starvation issue as much as it was a neglected oil change that caused the rod bearing to grenade itself.

New motor is delayed at the carrier due to several employees out with COVID, so I'm going to take advantage of the extra time and clean more of the bike while it sits there patiently waiting.
 

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I am beginning to believe it wasn't necessarily an oil starvation issue as much as it was a neglected oil change that caused the rod bearing to grenade itself.
How many miles does the bike have on the clock. Honda says you can go 12,000km (~8,000 miles) without changing the oil so to get the engine to disintegrate like that the previous owner would have to have ridden the bike well beyond that (or he never did the 600 miles change when breaking the engine in).
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
How many miles does the bike have on the clock. Honda says you can go 12,000km (~8,000 miles) without changing the oil so to get the engine to disintegrate like that the previous owner would have to have ridden the bike well beyond that (or he never did the 600 miles change when breaking the engine in).
It has 31k miles on the ODO, so a reasonable amount of time to be neglected. Could have been low on oil too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Have fuel delivery problem - no outflow from fuel pump when priming or starting. Does fire up with starter fluid :) Will update later. Have to run around town but will revisit.

Just purchasing an entire new OEM unit. Tank could use a good cleaning again anyway. Will give me the opportunity to mount the new slip on and chain and get the fairing back on. Without the OEM zip ties that came on it 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
A couple of rounds of hydrochloric acid in the tank was semi-effective, but I think I'm going to use electrolysis as the final resort. This tank isn't the easiest thing to flush out!
 

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I think I'm going to use electrolysis
If so...Please maybe you bring us pictures from the process?
  • Before?
  • After?
  • And a picture of the setup?
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Here are a couple pictures from earlier. The tank was in notably better condition after my first couple of treatements and I had intended to ride it to fill up the tank... But you know... The whole fuel pump situation I've got going on :) Flash rust is real, folks! Anyway, I'm going use a sealer after I'm finished with the electrolysis to make sure I won't encounter rust issues in the future with this new OEM pump assembly.

Will post with setup and result later in the week.

Automotive tire Fluid Yellow Amber Motor vehicle
Amber Ingredient Coffee Tableware Cup
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Here’s my set up. The gas cap ended up wearing out and would spin continuously without actuating the mechanism, so I drilled it out. Was unable to find a good way to seal the top fill hole with what I have in hand and decided to reinstall the old fuel pump assembly bottom. I’ll let it run for the next 36 hours or so. New pump assembly is here, so this is all I’m waiting for! Next thing to address will be all cosmetic.

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jaggy22 , what a beauty pictures. Thanks for sharing!
From what I learned the cathode (+) should be made of bare iron. If you decided to sacrifice an Allen key I might have just sanded the chrome plating out of it. But I see that you have reached the desired result anyway.
Well done!!!

What are the electrical data of the electrolysis:
Volt?
Ampere?
 
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Here’s my set up. The gas cap ended up wearing out and would spin continuously without actuating the mechanism, so I drilled it out. Was unable to find a good way to seal the top fill hole with what I have in hand and decided to reinstall the old fuel pump assembly bottom. I’ll let it run for the next 36 hours or so. New pump assembly is here, so this is all I’m waiting for! Next thing to address will be all cosmetic.

View attachment 45160
View attachment 45161
By the way, I understand that with the same set up you can also do the protective coating, lets say zinc coating.
 
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