Honda CBR 250 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know a lot of people have made threads on how they are going to store the bike for winter... so here is what I did with mine.

Place bike on paddock stands (swingarm and fork) and put in neutral
Added Sta-bil to fuel and Ran bike to full temp
Topped off fuel to brim
changed oil and filter
removed left crankcase hole cover and manually turned over engine a few times to circulate oil into filter cavity
topped off oil to max mark (level drops about 1 quart when you turn over motor)
cleaned, lubed, and adjusted chain tension
removed battery and brought into house (place on tender once a week to keep it topped off)
washed EVERYTHING by hand with sponge, toothbrush, and spray bottle with plain water (in garage so cant use hose)
waxed all painted surfaces (cowls, fairings, ect)
Used spray silicone on rag and wiped down all metal parts (motor, muffler, frame, forks, swingarm, ect)
inflate tires to proper pressure and spin to check alignment
wipe brake discs with rag and 91% alcohol
cover bike

Now this may seem excessive to some... but if your thorough then that's less problems and work you gotta deal with in the spring:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
thats a good picture.
makes me glad i got black to:D
i'll ride mine through winter here in SC,at least once a week
hopefully more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
879 Posts
I dont think its excessive. Think you got it covered pretty good. I also have the black model and the yosh exhaust. Do you like the sound or do you think its to loud?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,401 Posts
here is my winter storage program..
Put bike in garage with a full tank of gas with fuel stabilizer,marvel mystery oil (seafoam will replace both these soon since it does the things both those do) some STP since i apparently had water in my fuel problems a week or 2 ago...i just cleaned and lubed my chain (good for another 500 miles)

Thats pretty much it...
I am with lenbrinke....I will ride this winter every chance i get...hopefully once a week or so..
we have some pretty good warmer days all thru the winter and if they fall on a weekend i plan on taking advantage of them...if we have a long cold spell where i cant ride...i will unhook the negative side on battery..move bike a bit to rotate the tires some once a week or so...thats it..i will change the oil and filter in the spring since i just had it replaced at my 1st service in sept..its not that old to begin with...i might hook the battery up to my charger if it sits long enough but i doubt i will even do that..probably just rehook the negaitive terminal and crank when its time to ride again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I dont think its excessive. Think you got it covered pretty good. I also have the black model and the yosh exhaust. Do you like the sound or do you think its to loud?
I love the yoshi... did think it was a bit loud so I do use the silencer. Sounds better also I think.... less of the dirtbike tone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I am with lenbrinke....I will ride this winter every chance i get...hopefully once a week or so..
Wish I could ride it in the winter... but I live in western NY and we get lake effect snow....and a lot of it. Also, they salt the roads pretty heavily so I wanna wait till the spring rain washes away all the crap from the roads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Nice..Ill be parking mine soon. its getting cold here everyday. thanks for your info. by the way where did you buy the rear and front stand ? i want to get one but dont know what kind. Do you need a special adapter for it ?
thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
oil change.

I only have 300 miles put in my 250R. should i change the oil before i put it out for winter ? or leave it until i reach the 600 miles recommended oil change.(this would be spring time then.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I only have 300 miles put in my 250R. should i change the oil before i put it out for winter ? or leave it until i reach the 600 miles recommended oil change.(this would be spring time then.)
Change it... and once you do (if it's going to sit for a while) don't run it again. The theory here is that contaminated oil is bad for aluminum engines if left sitting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nice..Ill be parking mine soon. its getting cold here everyday. thanks for your info. by the way where did you buy the rear and front stand ? i want to get one but dont know what kind. Do you need a special adapter for it ?
thanks again.
got mine from flyncycle.com... but can't say i would recommend them. They make me nervous and are designed poorly. they come in three pieces (each) and they flex and bend a lot. I'll be getting solid 1 piece ones in the spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,964 Posts
Change it... and once you do (if it's going to sit for a while) don't run it again. The theory here is that contaminated oil is bad for aluminum engines if left sitting.
True. Used oil has moisture, unburned fuel, and acids in it, and will cause corrosion internally. Not just on aluminum, but gears and cams as well.

Synthetic oil has the advantage of a closed molecular structure that doesn't allow free oxygen molecules to attach like conventional oil's open structure does, so that helps reduce the chances of corrosion as well.

The oil change should be the last thing you do, and after the change the engine should be run for about 10 seconds only to circulate the fresh oil (otherwise the old oil is still coating the parts). DO NOT start the engine until it's time to ride again or you are just contaminating the fresh oil.

Closing the intake and exhaust is a good idea if there is any change little critters may be looking for a good winter home.


Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
Crap. I'm bikeless for the next 5 months or so. The CBR has been put away for a few weeks, and last night, the FJR go put away.

Theirs only one thing left to do... cultivate my alcoholism.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
378 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
True. Used oil has moisture, unburned fuel, and acids in it, and will cause corrosion internally. Not just on aluminum, but gears and cams as well.

Synthetic oil has the advantage of a closed molecular structure that doesn't allow free oxygen molecules to attach like conventional oil's open structure does, so that helps reduce the chances of corrosion as well.

The oil change should be the last thing you do, and after the change the engine should be run for about 10 seconds only to circulate the fresh oil (otherwise the old oil is still coating the parts). DO NOT start the engine until it's time to ride again or you are just contaminating the fresh oil.

Closing the intake and exhaust is a good idea if there is any change little critters may be looking for a good winter home.


Jay
I did use synthetic AMSoil 10w-30 for motorcycles:) Good call on the scientific explanation of the oil:D As for starting the bike for 10sec... I avoided that just by manually cranking the engine over (and prob will once a month just to be safe).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,964 Posts
I did use synthetic AMSoil 10w-30 for motorcycles:) Good call on the scientific explanation of the oil:D As for starting the bike for 10sec... I avoided that just by manually cranking the engine over (and prob will once a month just to be safe).
You're very prepared for storage!

Spinning by hand is better than firing it up as long as you crank it enough to get the oil to the top-end (I'm sure you do...). Spinning by hand once a month is a good idea also.


Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
427 Posts
I'm new to all of this. Is it necessary to get the tires off of the ground when storing for the winter?
Ideally, yes. If not, put an extra 5lbs of air in the tire(s) that are on the ground, and put some rubber or cardboard under the contact area. If you can, give the tires a spin occasionally to keep them from flat spotting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
after reading what the OP did to his bike for winter storage, I feel like a neglectful parent! Although at the very least my bike will be in an unheated garage (here in NYC garage space doesn't come cheap!).

so i plan on taking the battery out and putting it on a tender about once a week. I don't plan on changing the oil. It was the first thing I was going to do come spring time. I've only got about 2500 miles since last oil change.

I was also planning on getting a front stand and lifting the front tire off - i've been told it is bad for the tires to let the bike sit for weeks on end (ie. flattening/dry rot?). I don't know how true that is, but cyclegear has a front stand that matches the rear stand I already have on sale for $40. Cheaper than having to replace a warped tire i suppose.

so in sum here's what I was planning on doing to the bike for winter storage
1) remove battery - put on tender 1x/week
2) clean and lube chain
3) place bike on front and rear stand
4) fill gas tank and add fuel stabilizer

and that's pretty much it lol....enough? or not enough?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,964 Posts
after reading what the OP did to his bike for winter storage, I feel like a neglectful parent! Although at the very least my bike will be in an unheated garage (here in NYC garage space doesn't come cheap!).

so i plan on taking the battery out and putting it on a tender about once a week. I don't plan on changing the oil. It was the first thing I was going to do come spring time. I've only got about 2500 miles since last oil change.

I was also planning on getting a front stand and lifting the front tire off - i've been told it is bad for the tires to let the bike sit for weeks on end (ie. flattening/dry rot?). I don't know how true that is, but cyclegear has a front stand that matches the rear stand I already have on sale for $40. Cheaper than having to replace a warped tire i suppose.

so in sum here's what I was planning on doing to the bike for winter storage
1) remove battery - put on tender 1x/week
2) clean and lube chain
3) place bike on front and rear stand
4) fill gas tank and add fuel stabilizer

and that's pretty much it lol....enough? or not enough?
Change the oil and filter now - not in spring.

After changing the oil run the engine for a short period only. Don't start again until you are ready to ride.

Re-read this thread from the beginning if you want to know why.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top