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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike never starts easily in the morning. It always sounds rough for the first few seconds. Sometimes it dies and I need to hit the starter again after which it seems okay. Is this normal?

I have no issues when it's up and running. The idle RPM when warm is 1500.

It's 2012 ABS model with about 8000 miles on it. I've had it since it was new, and it always sort of had this problem. It's worse when it gets cold. I put a new battery in about 10 months ago.
 

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Seems to be an issue that has been around a while. My 2012 ABS started behaving this way in early summer...I'm trying to resolve it. I replaced the IACV without a clear positive result.

Earlier threads:

http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-problems-issues/4431-stalling-cold-start-up.html

http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-problems-issues/5184-cold-stall-first-start-help.html

http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-problems-issues/10521-cold-start.html

http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-problems-issues/41842-rough-idle-cold-start.html

and my two threads:

http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-...-increased-frequency-cold-start-stalling.html

http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-...enoid-valve-purge-control-valve-solenoid.html
(see post #4 and beyond)

The sensor pack that mounts on the throttle body contains the MAP sensor, the TP (throttle position) sensor, and the IAT sensor (intake air temperature) sensor. I think there could be a fault with the IAT (failure to detect a cold condition) but then again, the second cold start is always golden with a 2000 RPM fast idle. The sensor pack costs about USD $53.00 so at least it's not an expensive part. Some people talk about adjusting the forbidden white-painted screw, but I'm not ready to go there yet.
 

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Probably extra wear and tear on the starter motor, starter relay, and battery. Basically the life expectancy of the starting circuit is cut in half.

A workaround is to manually twist the throttle to increase engine RPM to 2000 or above, long enough for the ECM to sort itself out and the engine to become warm enough to idle properly at 1400 RPM +/- 100 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sometimes twisting the throttle works other times the RPM drops when I add throttle. Strange right? I will experiment more and see if there is a perfect amount of twist that makes it work.
 

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gyrotumbler said that he cracks the throttle open slightly while cranking to get the RPM up. If you start then open the throttle, it could lean out and stall even more quickly.
 

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Take up the throttle slack then open the throttle slightly when hitting the start button, then hold it open for second or two and let go.

Edit; Maybe holding throttle open after starting is not necessary.

If you try starting without the above procedure because of some repairs you tried, be ready to hit the kill switch if it starts stumbling and wants to stall.
 

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There may be other things going on here, but the first place I always look is the fuel. It's huge variable. Bad fuel can give you all sorts of odd problems. Some engines may have issues starting immediately if the octane of the fuel is too high, so don't go for the "Premium" because it's supposed to be better - it's not. You'll get less power and less economy from "Premium" if the engine is not designed for it.

Gas with ethanol will go bad quicker than gas without, and it can go bad right at the station. There's no guarantee it doesn't contain excess water or is not "phase separated" when you buy it. If you live in an area that has significant temp changes, and you leave your bike outside with a low level of fuel in the tank, you can build-up condensation in the tank - which will make it run poorly.

Another simple thing to try if you have odd running problems is to run a strong fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron Concentrate (1oz per gal) and see if it helps. I run a tank once a year in my F.I. bikes. It also helps clean the combustion chamber, injectors, and valves, which seems like it can be an issue with the CBR (search for threads about burned valve from carbon build-up and detonation).

Just a reminder to check the simple stuff before digging in too deep or buying expensive parts to fix a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I always gets the regular fuel, but I'm pretty sure everything around here has ethanol in it. My bike is in the garage overnight, so it's fairly safe from large temp changes. I will try the starting techniques mentioned by gryotumbler and stichill and then the chevron techron concentrate and see from there.
 

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About the time my bike started acting up I had switched from regular gas to ethanol free gas which is 90 octane in Florida.

Sunday I filled up with 3 gallons of regular and Monday the bike started ok. Around 1400 or 1500 rpms, seemed kind of low but no stumbling or hammering.

Today bike started normal again no problems at all.
 

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About the time my bike started acting up I had switched from regular gas to ethanol free gas which is 90 octane in Florida.

Sunday I filled up with 3 gallons of regular and Monday the bike started ok. Around 1400 or 1500 rpms, seemed kind of low but no stumbling or hammering.

Today bike started normal again no problems at all.
Thanks for the update.

Interesting. The CBR's engine may be one that doesn't like excess octane. Generally I always stay away from ethanol if I can, but in your case I would use it unless you can find 87 octane without.
 

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Thanks for the update.

Interesting. The CBR's engine may be one that doesn't like excess octane. Generally I always stay away from ethanol if I can, but in your case I would use it unless you can find 87 octane without.
I'm probably still use ethanol free gas, Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada because the bike runs better, accelerates faster, the "fart can" sounds better, and I don't mind cracking the throttle open a little to start it.

Edit: According to my seat of the pants dyno, accuracy is not guaranteed.
 

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This week I came across this excellent thread.
I have been looking for an answer to the difficult start I am experiencing for a long time, it turns out that there were friends here in 2015 who have already found how to improvise solutions.
It turns out my previous owner used one of these tricks, and when I fixed the throttle cable tension I actually spoiled that trick.
And these are the tricks (threading summary above):
1. Start the engine when the throttle is slightly open. And hold it until the RPM stabilizes. Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Bicycle part

2. Tension the throttle cable a little and regularly, and I add, you measuring the tension when the handlebars turn fully right, then when you return to the center the extra tension is released (and at the RPM in idel will be normal). First Start with the handlebars turned fully right.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Coil Automotive fuel system Gas

3. Tighten the screw on the throttle body, the one that the manufacturer says Should NOT Be Touched, and set the throttle to a little open value. And This Is NOT Recommended, and will raise the RPM idle even in a situation where the engine is already hot.
Tire Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle


P.S.
My bike never starts easily in the morning. It always sounds rough for the first few seconds.
The Honda manufacturer mentions this option in the Owner's Manual on page 28.
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I attach this matter to the growing list of typical CBR250R problems,
that Honda does not consider as problems🤣
 

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gosh, I thought only carby bikes had this problem and required slightly open throttle trick. Someone at Honda got lazy with their EFI programming!!!
 

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gosh, I thought only carby bikes had this problem and required slightly open throttle trick. Someone at Honda got lazy with their EFI programming!!!
YES. Honda(And other brands of manufacturers) does not invest special efforts("lazy") in their cheaper models.
This is why it is better to buy sometimes non-original parts(Not OEM).
I have already reached a good start (Soon I downloaded the videos), the replacement of the relay starter is the one that in the end affected the idle rpm in the first starting (straight starts from 2000 rpm). Only when I replaced the relay starter the problem was solved, can you start explaining how Is the RELAY related to that problem?

And now again there is a problem the engine shuts off when I turn the throttle, now there is probably no charging.
 
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