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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I got my new CBR 250R non abs model yesterday. It is a 2013 model but was resting in the showroom for past years due to low demand for this bike in the market because of its competitors.
Now coming to the problem, the bike has done only approx. 45 Km, from the beginning itself the gearing shifting was not so smooth. From 1st gear to 2nd it always makes a big "ttakk" noise when shifting up, the other gears are okay, but sometimes they too behaves the same. I am shifting gears at 3.5 to 4.5 RPM (1st gear to 2nd when the speed reaches near 20kmph ). I have read in many reviews and forums, that most of the riders shifts at around 5k or higher but as this is the break in period I am feeling like that much rpm would be over revving. Any suggestions from experienced ?
 

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I might ask someone you trust to ride it, or take it back to the dealer and have them check it out.

I wouldn't worry about over-revving. Shifting a 5000 is fine - it's not too much. You want load on the engine to seat the rings, and that means moderate acceleration without lugging.

Short-shifting at low RPMs won't produce the smoothest shifts. You need some acceleration to give you more time to change gears without losing momentum.

Make sure the clutch is adjusted properly. There should be info in here about it, but basically you are looking at the gap between the lever itself and the ""perch" (lever mount). Too much gap will make the clutch disengage too late. Too little will apply pressure to the clutch when it should be released.

EDIT: I didn't realize this was the same bike as the one with the coolant issue. In that case resolve the coolant question before riding again.
 

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Considering that his bike was delivered without any coolant, it shouldn't be ridden until the dealer has corrected the situation, logged the problem, and done something about extending the warranty because of dealer/factory error.

Just my opinion.
 

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The gearbox of the CBR 250 has a tendency to make those clank noises from 1st to 2nd gear. Mine does that too and it's normal (try to put some pressure on the gear selector before pulling the clutch in. That should reduce the clanking somewhat). Your shifting RPM are okay (though 3.5k should really only be used in low gears and only light throttle should be applied to prevent the engine from lugging).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Considering that his bike was delivered without any coolant, it shouldn't be ridden until the dealer has corrected the situation, logged the problem, and done something about extending the warranty because of dealer/factory error.

Just my opinion.
Yes, they have rectified it, they said. And the engine is running in normal temperature of 3 bars in gauge, have to check the coolant level tomorrow morning according to one of the members here suggested.
 

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I have around 25,000+ miles on my bike, but I don't think I ever noticed any noise like that.

It's possible that the gears need a bit of riding to break-in mechanically.

However, considering that the dealer actually sent on your way without coolant in the bike, I would be suspect of other fluid condition, namely engine oil.

It's possible that the oil sat in the bike for 4+ years. Possibly the fluid is low. Have you checked the engine oil level through the sight glass yet?

With all these troubles already, I would suggest that you ask the dealer to change all the fluids. Coolant's been added, so engine oil and brake fluid should be next.
 

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I am beginning to really not like that dealer.

The clutch may need adjustment.
The bike obviously was not prepped in any way before being given to the customer.

I would look for another dealer to perform your initial break-in valve adjustment. And be sure to let them know why you are looking for a new mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am beginning to really not like that dealer.

The clutch may need adjustment.
The bike obviously was not prepped in any way before being given to the customer.

I would look for another dealer to perform your initial break-in valve adjustment. And be sure to let them know why you are looking for a new mechanic.
In my city there are only 2 authorized dealerships of Honda, both are somewhat the same type, new teenage boys as mechanics who stays in the job for few weeks only and then another boys come. That's how the things are in here. And here, Honda is mainly focusing on their 110, 125 cc scooter segments, the service centre at both the dealerships are always flooded with these scooters, and some bikes of 110-160cc which are carburated. I haven't seen any CBR in the service center of these dealerships not even a CBR 150. Does the valve adjustment thing require opening up the engine head? Is that adjustment a big techy process?
 

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In my city there are only 2 authorized dealerships of Honda, both are somewhat the same type, new teenage boys as mechanics who stays in the job for few weeks only and then another boys come. That's how the things are in here. And here, Honda is mainly focusing on their 110, 125 cc scooter segments, the service centre at both the dealerships are always flooded with these scooters, and some bikes of 110-160cc which are carburated. I haven't seen any CBR in the service center of these dealerships not even a CBR 150. Does the valve adjustment thing require opening up the engine head? Is that adjustment a big techy process?
Valve adjustment is somewhat mechanically involved, but what's called out for is a a valve clearance check.

For valve clearance check, you do have to take the valve cover off but from thereon it's just a matter of using feeler gauge to measure valve clearance. Overall, it's a bit tedious process, but nothing that a somewhat mechanically inclined person can't handle.
 
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