[Juann]

So I’m dumb and put the oil filter in backwards and to make things worse and even dumber move I rode it for 50 miles!! Like that.
It turned off on me many times and now I put the oil filter in correctly and put 10w-40 because it’s thicker.

I don’t know what to do now.
I’ll have to get it rebuild and idk if I can do that, since it is my daily driver and I work 25 miles away.

i can replace the whole engine but I’ll need to take it to the shop since I won’t be able to do that, one guy said he’ll charge me 1200 for an engine swap to a 300cc cbr engine. I don’t trust that guy though.
I’ll need to check another spot.

last option is to sell the bike how it is right now and see how much I can get for it.

what would happen if I keep riding it like this? The oil level is good now and the oil filter is in the correct position.

thank you if you read this far, and yes those were foolish moves, i learned and now I want to do what I can to save money.

 

[jkv357]

What does it sound like?

Does it have adequate power?

Did you find particles in the oil when you changed it?

 

[Juann]

What does it sound like?

Does it have adequate power?

Did you find particles in the oil when you changed it?

yes it does have power

and it sounds like a tick that gets louder and faster in higher rpms

I haven’t changed the oil again, I just put the filter on the correct way, should I change the oil again? And particles of metal?

 

[Tamir]

and it sounds like a tick that gets louder and faster in higher rpms

Unfortunately, and as I already wrote to you in another thread (LINK), any further operation of the engine in such a condition will cause it further damage, and later on it can also be very dangerous:

• An engine that explodes,
• Or an engine that stops,

because if this happens while riding at high speed, it may end with severe bodily harm.

In my estimation, wear was caused in the bearings, and the noises are noises that are created when there is free-play in the bearings. This kind of free-play doesn't fix itself, it just gets exponentially worse by the minute.

 

[Big Cahuna]

I'm pretty sure what you're hearing is rod knock. It gets worse over time and will eventually need a rebuild. You MAY be able to do it yourself, I believe the tools are rachet, sockets, torque wrench, and piston ring clamp plus a manual and tools to remove the coolant plumbing.
You might get a good chunk of money selling it as a beater/trainer bike. If you are a good guy, you'll let the buyer know what happened. Many sellers won't.

Don't feel bad. Many owners have done the same thing.

 

[Tamir]

I'm pretty sure what you're hearing is rod knock.

Yapppp...

 

[DannoXYZ]

Well, even professional mechanics have installed these filters backwards!!!

Much easier to buy used engine from breakers and replace. Most likely cheaper than buying individual parts and having mechanic rebuild existing engine. Which might not even be possible due to damage to cam carriers and caps.

 

[Tamir]

Well, even professional mechanics have installed these filters backwards!!!

Yes, I can imagine it happening in 2011, when there was no accumulated knowledge about our model yet. When a young mechanic got to "practice" in changing oil and oil-filter on a 250 cc motorcycle, and then assemble the filter upside down.

But it's hard for me to see a professional mechanic taking such a motorcycle out to a customer without an inspection. They must check it before delivering the repaired motorcycle to the customer, and they check, and then a professional mechanic, the chief tester, can't miss that the engine noise has changed...

Later on they learned to be more careful with this issue.

In my opinion, today this can no longer happen in professional workshops.

 

[jkv357]

I would do a couple of things before junking it.

Pull the valve cover and take a look at the cam lobes for galling or heat discoloration.

Remove the oil and filter, and check the particle screen (not sure where that is, or how to get to it) for metal flakes. If you see bronze-colored flakes - it's toast.

Try to locate the area where the ticking sound is originating. Is it up high, or at the base of the engine?

An issue with the valve train will produce faster ticking up high, an issue with a rod bearing will be more of a slower knocking and come from the center of the engine. Rev the engine up and down to about 3000, and hold it around 2500 or so, when listening.

Chances are things are not good, but I'd check it out before making the call.

 

[Big Cahuna]

Good advice by JKV.

If you get into checking the internal parts of machines an endoscope will be your best friend. They're cheap, like sub $20 cheap and many of them have attachments. I thought I would use mine once or twice but I find I use it regularly for things like finding things dropped down the drain, looking in walls, looking in spark plug holes for cylinder wear, and looking under cabinets for dropped parts (which I do often).

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PBF6DX5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Tamir]

Pull the valve cover and take a look at the cam lobes for galling or heat discoloration.

Remove the oil and filter, and check the particle screen (not sure where that is, or how to get to it) for metal flakes. If you see bronze-colored flakes - it's toast.

jkv357 the two first tests you suggest include the disassembly of the valve cover, and the disassembly of the right engine cover. In order to access the top cover, you need quite a bit of tim work, and after all that work the access is still difficult. Access to disassembling the right cover is convenient, but there it involves more work and knowledge.
Your proposal requires a very high level of mechanics skills. Just saying so.

 

[Tamir]

Try to locate the area where the ticking sound is originating.
...
Rev the engine up and down to about 3000, and hold it around 2500 or so, when listening.

jkv357 Your third test is not helpful, because it is about further damage to the engine. In the situation that Juann described, you must not start the engine. Maybe a certified mechanic is allowed, just for a second.
A qualified mechanic would probably conclude that Big Cahuna and I have arrived.

P.S. And of course under no circumstances should you ride a motorcycle in such a condition to a mechanic, you should only get to him by towing!

 

[Tamir]

Good advice by JKV.

If you get into checking the internal parts of machines an endoscope will be your best friend. They're cheap, like sub $20...
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PBF6DX5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Yes, this is definitely a beautiful gift for any mechanic, a beautiful tool.
I currently have the basic mechanical version, a pair of very useful tools that together cost me 7USD:

 

[jkv357]

jkv357 Your third test is not helpful, because it is about further damage to the engine. In the situation that Juann described, you must not start the engine. Maybe a certified mechanic is allowed, just for a second.
A qualified mechanic would probably conclude that Big Cahuna and I have arrived.

P.S. And of course under no circumstances should you ride a motorcycle in such a condition to a mechanic, you should only get to him by towing!

He has already done an oil change, and ridden the cycle, so I don't think it's going to do any additional damage to run it enough to try to isolate the area the sound is coming from.

 

[Tamir]

... so I don't think it's going to do any additional damage to run it enough to try to isolate the area the sound is coming from.

💖 YES BUT...
Any additional start is a harmful and unnecessary start for this engine, which has already suffered enough and is in the process of certain collapse.
If you want to leave a chance for a cheap repair of the damage caused until now
you don't start it.
At this stage minimizing the damage is the issue, and the continued curiosity to investigate will only add damage and not knowledge.
The problem is already known: Damage to the Big-Hand bearings, and probably also damage to the camshaft?...
Either way, it's not a situation that's getting better, it's just getting worse, it's not that the oil is changed and the situation stabilizes. With this type of damage, there is no escape from a general overhaul... or the other tips mentioned here like: Buying a used good engine, etc.

 

[jkv357]

💖 YES BUT...
(SNIP)
The problem is already known: Damage to the Big-Hand bearings, and probably also damage to the camshaft?...
Either way, it's not a situation that's getting better, it's just getting worse, it's not that the oil is changed and the situation stabilizes. With this type of damage, there is no escape from a general overhaul... or the other tips mentioned here like: Buying a used good engine, etc.

Is it? We need to confirm exactly what the damage is by removing the covers and check the parts visually.

We expect we know what we will find, but I wouldn't buy a new engine and toss the old one before confirming.

I guess if I didn't want to do it myself, I'd pay someone to disassemble it enough to know for sure if it's junk or not.

If you are sure it's junk, why not try disassembling it yourself? What's to lose?

 

[Tamir]

We need to confirm exactly what the damage is by removing the covers and check the parts visually.
...
If you are sure it's junk, why not try disassembling it yourself? What's to lose?

Yappp...You don't need to start the engine, and it is now possible to start opening it to assess whether it is worth repairing, or not worth repairing...
Note that both repair and replacement both start with the same procedure:
Disassembling the engine from the frame... so this is the next step...
either ways, it is a job that is not suitable for most amateur mechanics because it requires a high level of skills, knowledge, a respectable tool box, and of course a time and place to work in it.

 

[DannoXYZ]

Yappp...You don't need to start the engine, and it is now possible to start opening it to assess whether it is worth repairing, or not worth repairing...
Note that both repair and replacement both start with the same procedure:
Disassembling the engine from the frame... so this is the next step...
either ways, it is a job that is not suitable for most amateur mechanics because it requires a high level of skills, knowledge, a respectable tool box, and of course a time and place to work in it.

ANYONE can do this by following instructions in manual. That's how amateur mechanics LEARN to become better amateur mechanics. If you never learn anything new, how will you get better? Manual is excellent and can guide brand-new mechanics who've never done any of this work.

 

[jkv357]

Yappp...You don't need to start the engine, and it is now possible to start opening it to assess whether it is worth repairing, or not worth repairing...
Note that both repair and replacement both start with the same procedure:
Disassembling the engine from the frame... so this is the next step...
either ways, it is a job that is not suitable for most amateur mechanics because it requires a high level of skills, knowledge, a respectable tool box, and of course a time and place to work in it.

Yappp?

The disassembly is easy - it's getting it back together right that takes the skill!

 

[Tamir]

ANYONE can do this by following instructions in manual. That's how amateur mechanics LEARN to become better amateur mechanics. If you never learn anything new, how will you get better? Manual is excellent and can guide brand-new mechanics who've never done any of this work.

A hobby always costs money, and does not save money, and tools cost money, and study time costs money, and the apprentice's mistakes cost money, and together it is an expenditure of money that is higher than getting a repair at a professional mechanic...just saying that.

Yes you are right anyone can...but...