Honda CBR 250 Forum banner

No Oil Damage! Engine makes noise.

1650 Views 41 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  jkv357
So I’m dumb and put the oil filter in backwards and to make things worse and even dumber move I rode it for 50 miles!! Like that.
It turned off on me many times and now I put the oil filter in correctly and put 10w-40 because it’s thicker.

I don’t know what to do now.
I’ll have to get it rebuild and idk if I can do that, since it is my daily driver and I work 25 miles away.

i can replace the whole engine but I’ll need to take it to the shop since I won’t be able to do that, one guy said he’ll charge me 1200 for an engine swap to a 300cc cbr engine. I don’t trust that guy though.
I’ll need to check another spot.

last option is to sell the bike how it is right now and see how much I can get for it.

what would happen if I keep riding it like this? The oil level is good now and the oil filter is in the correct position.

thank you if you read this far, and yes those were foolish moves, i learned and now I want to do what I can to save money.
1 - 9 of 42 Posts
What does it sound like?

Does it have adequate power?

Did you find particles in the oil when you changed it?
I would do a couple of things before junking it.

Pull the valve cover and take a look at the cam lobes for galling or heat discoloration.

Remove the oil and filter, and check the particle screen (not sure where that is, or how to get to it) for metal flakes. If you see bronze-colored flakes - it's toast.

Try to locate the area where the ticking sound is originating. Is it up high, or at the base of the engine?

An issue with the valve train will produce faster ticking up high, an issue with a rod bearing will be more of a slower knocking and come from the center of the engine. Rev the engine up and down to about 3000, and hold it around 2500 or so, when listening.

Chances are things are not good, but I'd check it out before making the call.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
jkv357 Your third test is not helpful, because it is about further damage to the engine. In the situation that Juann described, you must not start the engine. Maybe a certified mechanic is allowed, just for a second.
A qualified mechanic would probably conclude that Big Cahuna and I have arrived.

P.S. And of course under no circumstances should you ride a motorcycle in such a condition to a mechanic, you should only get to him by towing!
He has already done an oil change, and ridden the cycle, so I don't think it's going to do any additional damage to run it enough to try to isolate the area the sound is coming from.
💖 YES BUT...
The problem is already known: Damage to the Big-Hand bearings, and probably also damage to the camshaft?...
Either way, it's not a situation that's getting better, it's just getting worse, it's not that the oil is changed and the situation stabilizes. With this type of damage, there is no escape from a general overhaul... or the other tips mentioned here like: Buying a used good engine, etc.
Is it? We need to confirm exactly what the damage is by removing the covers and check the parts visually.

We expect we know what we will find, but I wouldn't buy a new engine and toss the old one before confirming.

I guess if I didn't want to do it myself, I'd pay someone to disassemble it enough to know for sure if it's junk or not.

If you are sure it's junk, why not try disassembling it yourself? What's to lose?
  • Helpful
Reactions: 1
Yappp...You don't need to start the engine, and it is now possible to start opening it to assess whether it is worth repairing, or not worth repairing...
Note that both repair and replacement both start with the same procedure:
Disassembling the engine from the frame... so this is the next step...
either ways, it is a job that is not suitable for most amateur mechanics because it requires a high level of skills, knowledge, a respectable tool box, and of course a time and place to work in it.

The disassembly is easy - it's getting it back together right that takes the skill!
Hey bro thanks for your help, i drained the oil and checked the filter and there’s no particles.

Also the sound comes from the top of the engine.
It is definitely not the rod bearing.

im goiing to open the cover right now. Do you think replacing the camshaft will do it?
I would start with that. Post a photo of what you find.

It's unlikely that everything will be fine, but you need to know for sure.

As Tamir noted, the screen under the side cover may be holding the damaged bearing particles, so you do need to pull the cover to check (after draining the oil). It is the only way to know the extent of the damage to the bottom end bearings. Disassembly shouldn't be overly complicated, but you may need to reference a shop manual online if you have questions.
Only in this case, again, according to the noises that described, we are not in a situation of maybe,
for sure there are chips in the strainer, a lot of chips.:coffee:
To remove the right engine cover it is not enough to drain the oil, it is also necessary to drain the coolant, this is a job that requires a lot of knowledge and experience (relatively).
Not much to lose for trying at this point then.

Draining the oil and coolant doesn't take an experienced technician, and neither does removing the cover.

We know, for sure, what we will find?
JVK It's nice that you are so optimistic, or maybe everything seems so easy for you, the job of removing the right engine cover on a CBR250R(2013) is relatively complicated:
  • You need to drain both: the oil, and the coolant.
  • There is an issue with the clutch mechanism, and the spring. You have to keep the spring from falling into the engine, and then there is a problem of putting it back in place.
  • In the assembly there is an issue with the axis angle of the water pump.
  • In addition to the paper gasket, you need to replace 3 more O-Rings in three different sizes:coffee::whistle:
  • Draining the coolant is easy, but you mustn't forget to bleed air bubbles when refilling.

But hey, do you remember? That cover, in that particular case, is not going to be assembly for some time, because the crankshaft bearings need to be replaced:whistle::coffee::coffee::coffee:
As I said before - reassembly is the part that takes the skill.

It is very possible that reassembly won't be required after the inspection...
This is what I found bro the intake camshaft is really scratched and the surface where I lay the in cam is scratched badly too.
View attachment 45651
Well, that pretty much confirms what we expected. There's no way to repair that efficiently, and the bearing surface where it rides is critical as well. The cam and head are junk.

The next thing to check is the bottom end, and as we have discussed, it does take removal of the covers to access the screen that would be holding the particles. Look up the procedure in a Service Manual before you start. You really don’t have much to lose at this point.
1 - 9 of 42 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.