yes it does have power
and it sounds like a tick that gets louder and faster in higher rpms
I haven’t changed the oil again, I just put the filter on the correct way, should I change the oil again? And particles of metal?
yes it does have powerWhat does it sound like?
Does it have adequate power?
Did you find particles in the oil when you changed it?
Hey bro thanks for your help, i drained the oil and checked the filter and there’s no particles.I would do a couple of things before junking it.
Pull the valve cover and take a look at the cam lobes for galling or heat discoloration.
Remove the oil and filter, and check the particle screen (not sure where that is, or how to get to it) for metal flakes. If you see bronze-colored flakes - it's toast.
Try to locate the area where the ticking sound is originating. Is it up high, or at the base of the engine?
An issue with the valve train will produce faster ticking up high, an issue with a rod bearing will be more of a slower knocking and come from the center of the engine. Rev the engine up and down to about 3000, and hold it around 2500 or so, when listening.
Chances are things are not good, but I'd check it out before making the call.
I opened it bro and the intake cams shaft is scratched and also where I lay the intake camshaft is scratched badly as well. If I put a new intake camshaft it will just get scratched or what do you think?Usually the top end is the first thing to cook. As stated, if that's scorched the machined surface on the head where the cams lie, it's time for a new engine. Indeed, as a cheap bike, it's relatively easy to work on and if you confirm it's torched, no better way and cheaper way to learn. These repairs can be done yourself if in relatively decent shape; the engine isn't that heavy.
Right now, there's a complete engine on fleabay for ~$400 plus shipping, and if the damage is mostly isolated to the head area, there's a cbr300r cylinder head on fleabay for $129.
I would start with that. Post a photo of what you find.
It's unlikely that everything will be fine, but you need to know for sure.
As Tamir noted, the screen under the side cover may be holding the damaged bearing particles, so you do need to pull the cover to check (after draining the oil). It is the only way to know the extent of the damage to the bottom end bearings. Disassembly shouldn't be overly complicated, but you may need to reference a shop manual online if you have questions.
I would start with that. Post a photo of what you find.
It's unlikely that everything will be fine, but you need to know for sure.
As Tamir noted, the screen under the side cover may be holding the damaged bearing particles, so you do need to pull the cover to check (after draining the oil). It is the only way to know the extent of the damage to the bottom end bearings. Disassembly shouldn't be overly complicated, but you may need to reference a shop manual online if you have questions.
This is what I found bro the intake camshaft is really scratched and the surface where I lay the in cam is scratched badly too.I would start with that. Post a photo of what you find.
It's unlikely that everything will be fine, but you need to know for sure.
As Tamir noted, the screen under the side cover may be holding the damaged bearing particles, so you do need to pull the cover to check (after draining the oil). It is the only way to know the extent of the damage to the bottom end bearings. Disassembly shouldn't be overly complicated, but you may need to reference a shop manual online if you have questions.
What about cleaning it up ? Like sanding out the scratches? What do you think about thatYeah, that's really bad. Replace the top end. Shouldn't be too expensive if you buy used.