Honda CBR 250 Forum banner
Cancel

oil change on a motorcycle...

10701 Views 22 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  may2nd, 
H
if you saw my last post you will know i am planning to get a 2011 cbr250r and if i didn't mention this eariler, i'm a newb and i only know a bit.... so please bare with me here :)

how much of you do your own oil change or take it to a shop?

i want to learn how to do my own oil change so if you are experienced with doing an oil change in a motorcycle i will appreciate your advice and any info that will help me out.

What type of motorcycle oil is recommended?
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
1
Honda-fan said:
if you saw my last post you will know i am planning to get a 2011 cbr250r and if i didn't mention this eariler, i'm a newb and i only know a bit.... so please bare with me here :)

how much of you do your own oil change or take it to a shop?

i want to learn how to do my own oil change so if you are experienced with doing an oil change in a motorcycle i will appreciate your advice and any info that will help me out.

What type of motorcycle oil is recommended?
Click to expand...
Well i can say on my cbr125rw its a pain in the ass to "change" oil.."filter".
I dont hope its the same on the 250
I looked in the techmanual but couldnt find it, neither understand the language :)

And use the oil Honda recommend in the manual you get when you buy it, or at least the spec´ for the oil.
Reply
Save
Like
R
I usually do mine at a shop.

Change the oil and oil filter after 150-200km.
Do this again after 1000km.

I personally change mine every 1000km until 4000-5000km.

After this change to fully synthetic oil.

No harm comes in changing the oil early or too regularly, but it's important to change the filter after a few 100kms as a new engine will still has metal in it that will run into the oil, best to get it out soon.

Don't run fully synthetic oil until the break-in period is over.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
N
Redline said:
I usually do mine at a shop.

Change the oil and oil filter after 150-200km.
Do this again after 1000km.

I personally change mine every 1000km until 4000-5000km.

After this change to fully synthetic oil.

No harm comes in changing the oil early or too regularly, but it's important to change the filter after a few 100kms as a new engine will still has metal in it that will run into the oil, best to get it out soon.

Don't run fully synthetic oil until the break-in period is over.
Click to expand...
How long do you usually run on synthetic oil after the break-in period is finished? Wouldnt it be better to just change the oil filter after the 1st oil change as it'll collect all the excess metal?
Reply
Save
Like
R
Yup, change the oil filter after 150km, and again after 1000km.

Change the oil and oil filter after 150-200km.
Do this again after 1000km.

And change it again when you change to fully synthetic oil.

Changing it more than this will not do any harm. It's a good thing to care of.
Reply
Save
Like
C
Im looking for some GOOD motorcycle oils. With limited knowledge it's hard finding good oil for a motorcycle.

Motul oils are said to be the best motorcyle oil.

Amsoil is another oil for motorcycle's i heard good stuff about.

thoughts?
Reply
Save
Like
250 Tom
I use amsoil in all my bikes. After break-in I switch over to synthetic. There are many good oils out there but whats more important is keeping it changed on a regular basis. The little motor will be putting out a lot of R.P.M.s. Take care of it and it will take care of you
Reply
Save
Like
J
CBR_Guy said:
Im looking for some GOOD motorcycle oils. With limited knowledge it's hard finding good oil for a motorcycle.

Motul oils are said to be the best motorcyle oil.

Amsoil is another oil for motorcycle's i heard good stuff about.

thoughts?
Click to expand...
Some people use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. It's for diesel engines but it also works for bikes because it got no friction modifiers. It's cheaper than Motul and Amsoil.
Reply
Save
Like
A
@Redline - Why do you insist changing to fully synthetic by 5K kms? Why not after 1K or 2K or 3K?
Reply
Save
Like
B
I know it's old, but I thought I'd answer the OP's question:

I changed my oil for the first time today, at home.

All you'll need is an allen-key set, and a half-decent metric socket set. Also make sure you have an oil change pan or bucket to catch the oil as it drains out of the bike. If you're not sure about how accurate you are at pouring a funnel could be useful.

In terms of parts, I just bought two litres of genuine Honda oil and a Honda filter. I didn't replace the gasket on the housing, and look for suggestions from some pros as to whether I should have. It isn't leaking at all.

Follow the directions in the manual, and you'll be gold. It's really quite an easy oil change compared to most. Next time I'll take photos :doh:
Reply
Save
Like
killstrelok
If you follow all the directions in the owners manual you'll also need a torque wrench, how necessary that actually is, is debatable.
My dealer changed my oil to synthetic at first service.
Reply
Save
Like
J
I was going to change my oil at 200 mi. but the dealer recommended that I wait for the 600 mile service. He said that Honda uses a break-in oil (without friction modifiers) and I should wait for the first service.
Reply
Save
Like
cbr9927
jpit said:
I was going to change my oil at 200 mi. but the dealer recommended that I wait for the 600 mile service. He said that Honda uses a break-in oil (without friction modifiers) and I should wait for the first service.
Click to expand...
Thats what I go by too, had a Honda car and you should not take out the oil too soon either. Probably stick with dino oil for the 1st 3k miles and than to full synthetic.
Reply
Save
Like
M
ive heard m any different things from many different people.. i changed my oil last sunday. however i did not take the right lower fairing off.. just kinda held it out while removing the filter casing and filter.. however i should add i wasnt intendinding on totally changinging the oil, i wanted to have a look at the filter cause i bought 2 different at the local moto store and wanted to see which one fit and mistakedly found that by loosening the casing bolts oil comes out..imagine that!!Duh! anyways putting the new filter on with the spring gasket ond filter on properly was a pain in the ass!! i acctually had my girlfriend out in the garage helping me put the bolts bak into the casing while i held the whole oil filter, spring, gasket sanwitch together..got it bak together but was prepared as farc as having oil to put in so i called my local honda dealer and he said synthetic 10w 30 sae would be fine just regular run of the mill motor oil, and he said it would not effect the warranty negativly in any way..page 117 of the owners manual lists 4 or 5 different kinds of oil you can use..hope all goes well with your oil change..oh and i have about 400 miles on my moto..
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
Cire 5th
jpit said:
I was going to change my oil at 200 mi. but the dealer recommended that I wait for the 600 mile service. He said that Honda uses a break-in oil (without friction modifiers) and I should wait for the first service.
Click to expand...
The service guy said almost the same thing to me except he didn't mention break in oil. He said that the bikes nowadays (not word for word) do not need an oil change right away or too soon. I mentioned about the metal shavings and he said that the engineering nowadays is better than old bikes.

He then mentioned after all that oil change talk, to push the bike, feel the power. He said its ok (this is the same day when I posted about I will runmy bike to 9k every gear). He said that when the bikes come out of production his district manager went out to Asia and saw what they did to these bikes. He said if you saw what they did to these bikes, that I wouldn't want to buy it. They redline it at every gear.

Anyway, when I get to 600 mi I will go for my first service which includes my first oil change, which he recommends. I asked him if he has serviced CBR250Rs before and he said a bunch of em. He said though, If I really really wanted an oil change I can do, of course.

For my first service it will cost me $220 not including parts. I am going to ask if I can watch the lubrication of the chain process and oil change process. I want to be able to know how to do that. I have done oil changes on my car before.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
J
may2nd said:
ive heard m any different things from many different people.. i changed my oil last sunday. however i did not take the right lower fairing off.. just kinda held it out while removing the filter casing and filter.. however i should add i wasnt intendinding on totally changinging the oil, i wanted to have a look at the filter cause i bought 2 different at the local moto store and wanted to see which one fit and mistakedly found that by loosening the casing bolts oil comes out..imagine that!!Duh! anyways putting the new filter on with the spring gasket ond filter on properly was a pain in the ass!! i acctually had my girlfriend out in the garage helping me put the bolts bak into the casing while i held the whole oil filter, spring, gasket sanwitch together..got it bak together but was prepared as farc as having oil to put in so i called my local honda dealer and he said synthetic 10w 30 sae would be fine just regular run of the mill motor oil, and he said it would not effect the warranty negativly in any way..page 117 of the owners manual lists 4 or 5 different kinds of oil you can use..hope all goes well with your oil change..oh and i have about 400 miles on my moto..
Click to expand...
By that do you mean automotive oil?

You don't want to use auto oils. Current auto oils, 30-grade and below, have Friction Modifiers that can cause clutch slipping. Oils above 30-grade (5W-40, 10W-40, etc) don't have modifiers, but still aren't a good choice IMO. Auto oils currently have lower levels of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus) than they did previously. That's not a problem for cars with roller cam lifters, but solid lifter designs (like cycles) need higher levels of ZDDP to protect the cams from galling.

Diesel oils like Shell Rotella (conventional and synthetic) have higher levels and no modifiers, and are a good choice.

Cycle-specific oils have the same high levels.

I've run Rotella T6 synthetic in many of my cycles with good results, and just recently changed to Castrol 4T Racing cycle oil. I may give Motul a try next time around. IMO Motul is definitely one of the best, but Rotella T6, Castrol 4T cycle, Mobil1 4T cycle, and similar are more than adequate for all but the most demanding conditions.

If I was racing I'd be using a Motul double Ester synthetic.


Jay
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
M
JKV357- yea, i was a little leary when he said it was ok to use automotive oil, but he said it would be fine..so i filled it with 10w 30 synthetic because i had it on hand and there were no shops open that sunday night to get moto oil..so before i added the oil i called back one more time to ask the guy if he was sure and he was so the bike has a crank case full of oil but i havent ridden it since..i changed the oil as one of my winterizing chores for the bike..i guess if worse comes to worse i could drain the synthetic automotive stuff i just put in and replace it with proper oil..whats your take?
Reply
Save
Like
250 Tom
To bad you didnt just put in the right oil in the first place. Not sure if it would hurt anything or not but it was me I would just change it again for peace of mind as they say. It only holds a guart and a half so not really that big of deal
Reply
Save
Like
M
Yeah, i just called the honda dealership again this morning and he said the same thing..so im gonna go get some motorcycle oil today and drain the stuff i put in sunday and put in new.peace of mind..;-)
Reply
Save
Like
J
may2nd said:
Yeah, i just called the honda dealership again this morning and he said the same thing..so im gonna go get some motorcycle oil today and drain the stuff i put in sunday and put in new.peace of mind..;-)
Click to expand...
That's what I'd do. There are some people over at another forum I frequent that say they've been using auto oil (10W-40 Mobil1) for a while with any issues, but that's not a good idea IMO.

Your 10W-30 auto oil has Friction Modifiers that can build-up on the clutch plates and make them slip - plus - (and more importantly) it has too low of ZDDP levels to be safe for the cam.

When you are only talking 1 1/2 qts, it better be right - and top-quality IMO.


Jay
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Honda CBR 250 Forum
A forum community dedicated to Honda CBR 250 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Honda CBR250 General Discussion CBR250 Problems and Issues New Member Introductions CBR250 Appearance and Modifications CBR250 Parts and Accessories
Top