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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Red/Silver Non-ABS 2011
300 miles on odo

I have been patiently waiting for the 300 mile mark to trip so I could Push the bike a little. Over the last couple of weeks I have riden as much as I could in as many vaying ways as I could while still trying to abide by the "no full throttle/no rapid accel/decel" mantra. This has included highway riding (65-75) solo + two up. Commuter trips at normal (55-60) speeds. Some "fun" trips in the curvy areas round here. Long story short when I originally bought the bike and rode it home I had a couple drips of oil coming from the clutch lever @ the crankcase. I was a little concerned but I wiped them off hoping that maybe my set up guy was just sloppy and some excess oil had dripped down the outside of the seal at the dealers. After 300 miles The clutch turned out not to be a problem. I also had some chainlube run down the breather hoses in the first couple hundred miles...quick search revealed this was pretty standard fair for the cbr. Last night I ran through ALOT of bugs and thought it would be a good time to detail the bike and recheck fludis/air pressures. Much to my dismay the entire left side of my engine was covered in oil. More specifically the stator cover gasket was soaked all the way around.

So for some of you who have already experienced the chainlube "problem" could this really still be lube flying off at 300 miles? Did your bikes have oil residue inside the left lower fairing and all the way around the stator cover? Has anyone else noticed the chain lube thing on the FRONT of the leftside crankcase/stator cover?

I am gonna degrease the bike and chainwax it this weekend...I really hope it doesn't have to go back to the dealer as our weather is finally kicking it into gear here. Honda fit and finish has always been good to me but this bike seems alittle unpolished compared to others that I have owned. I thought I had purchased a Honda not a Harley!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Alright I have found my oil leak.

This weekend I took the time to remove the fairings so that I could degrease my bike and detail it out :) Well I was worried that the oil I was seeing was not the factory lube flying off the chain so after the first short ride I inspected the clutch cover and lo and behold oil...but it is for sure coming from the upper/rear oil galley plug on the head. (I will try to upload a photo later) Since these plugs just have a copper crush ring like so many other oil plugs I first tried to tighten them slighty-No good still leaks after warm up. Now we are not talking Niagara falls here but realistically one drop ever minute. Ok so my question for all you peeps who have the factory manual (since my dealership is closed for the day) what is the torque spec on those two allen plugs? Whats the parts number for the copper crush washer and/or the plug itself? And is there any reccommened sealant required for the plug? I am a mechanic so if I can pick up a new crush ring and put it in myself it will save me some riding time off this weekend. Thanks for your replies it will really help me out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok - ordered the Allen plug and copper crush ring....total cost $1.58! Dealer tells me parts will be in on Friday. The weekend is looking better all the time :)

Could someone PLEASE post the torque specs for the two Allen plugs in the left side head?

I have already ordered the service manual but it wont be here till Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My dealer is an hour away and they can't get to it for a week. I am a certified tech for a small shop and honestly for $1.58 I feel very confident this will fix it. I fully expect no other mans hands to touch my bike unless something catastrophic happens to it going forward. Things will be done to spec if I do the service....after reading some of your guys' threads on first services (reused oil filters/ backwards oil filters/miss adjusted valves/etc.) I guess I just prefer to do it at home. Anyhow I really enjoy that kind of work and find it part of the pleasure of owning a bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright decided to remove the radiator hose and pull the leaking rear plug in the head tonight since parts should be in friday to fix my bike. Well it's a little worse then I had hoped :(


If you look at the plugs mating surface it is MUCH smaller on the backside. I am still gonna put a new copper washer and oil plug in it but I fear this might require a major tear down to replace the head if it still leaks after the new plug/washer. Not cool. Could someone PLEASE post the torque for these screws? My service manual is on its way but won't be here till next week.
 

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If you look at the plugs mating surface it is MUCH smaller on the backside. I am still gonna put a new copper washer and oil plug in it but I fear this might require a major tear down to replace the head if it still leaks after the new plug/washer. Not cool. Could someone PLEASE post the torque for these screws? My service manual is on its way but won't be here till next week.
I don't have my service manual yet either. I doubt that the torque spec for that plug would be any more than 10 ft.lbs., after all its threading into cast aluminum.
The bigger issue would seem to be the way the cylinder head was machined for that plug and washer. From the photo, it doesn't look like there is enough clearance for the plug/washer to seat flat against the machined surface.
If that's the case, I would have the dealer take care of it under warranty, as this is clearly a factory defect. If this were a bike that was not under warranty, you could easily get in there with a Dremel tool and remove enough material to get the plug/washer to seal. However, I wouldn't do that on a new bike under warranty. Don't let the dealer do that either... they need to replace that cylinder head with one that is machined correctly.
 

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I just looked at the cylinder head on my 2012, and in comparing the area of the casting where that plug is located to the photo you last posted(with the plug removed and rad. hose disconnected). The cylinder head casting is different on the '12 vs the '11 model, in that area where the plug is located. Interesting. I think that the assumption has been that there are no differences between 2011's and 2012 models.


I looked up the part numbers for both 2011 and 2012 Cylinder Heads, they are listed as the same P/N. Honda could have made a production change without changing the part number, although that would be very unusual, as they would normally do a part number supersession anytime the part itself is changed. That said, there is a very noticeable difference between the cylinder head casting in the photograph that LaCarolus posted, and the cylinder head on my 2012.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When I went to pick up the washer + plug I asked the dealer what the torque spec was. He pulled the manual out and we looked together-didn't see one...so tight it is. The head is machined flat and there is just enough surface to seal with the washer but only if you position it "correctly" (the plug seals at the shiny spot not the black area). When you look at the imprint on the old washer you can see where it barely sealed. In all honesty I just applied an anaerobic sealer to the plug at the washer. If it still leaks they are going to install a new cyclinder head. I understand that this could have been taken care of under warranty but I would rather not have the head replaced unless really needed. The only time these pugs come out is if you need to pull the rockers out from my understanding.
 

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When I went to pick up the washer + plug I asked the dealer what the torque spec was. He pulled the manual out and we looked together-didn't see one...so tight it is.
Just not too tight... you don't want to be paying for that new cylinder head.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No there are at least 10 threads into the head that the plug engages into. A 6 foot cheater bar on a 1/2" drive was what I had planned on use to torque it REAL good....just kidding...tight will be enough. I am gonna post the spec if I can find it after I get the manual.
 

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Can you make the warranty claim and have them get the parts then not have them actually fix it until winter? The casting is defective and may cause unforseen trouble later after the warranty ends
 
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