[tollarja]

I'd like to start this thread to gather empirical evidence for the great CBR250R oil discussion. Who's willing to test their oil so we can have some empirical data for discussions?

Sendler recently mentioned testing 5W-30 for the low revs, super mileage crew, surely he'll share his data.

I'd be willing to test my AMSoil 10W-30 advanced synthetic motorcycle oil for the fat kid with track aspirations crew.

If we have good participation, what data points should we gather?

I think basic rider stats, riding style and the test results for mileage intervals that we standardize. We could do 0, 1000, 3000 and then 6000 or the test interval recommended by the laboratory. I don't like paying for the unused oil test unless we think it is a useful data point. I think 1,000 miles lets the oil settle closer to how it will be throughout the test.

So, what do you say?

 

[tollarja]

Nobody wants to collect data with me...nerd sad

 

[Magona250]

Nope, it's a cheap bike people will thrash and sell. Who cares if using brand/ type x will make it last 500 miles longer/ gain you .001 mpg.

 

[sendler]

You are ahead of the curve on this topic. But on my end, I will gladly pay an extra $.002 / mile for Motul 300V 5W30 oil in order to improve my mpg by what ever it will. It is good for an increase of 4% hp in the mid range and 2% on the top end which a racer would see in an improvement of lap times.

 

[arn]

Personally, I think the same person should be doing the driving for all the samples, else rider usage (of the bike ) will be a very big (and possibly decisive) variable.

The guy who rides at 80 mph for 30 miles on the highway daily, and the guy who is using his bike twice a week to ride 3km each way are not doing the same thing to their oil.

 

[somebody5788]

Nope, it's a cheap bike people will thrash and sell. Who cares if using brand/ type x will make it last 500 miles longer/ gain you .001 mpg.

It's cheap yes, but why treat it like **** because of that? I personally don't want it to depreciate as much as yours will with that kind of treatment.

Also 500 miles, ya right. If these engines prove to be reliable then using a better oil could mean the difference of 50,000 miles.

 

[tollarja]

Personally, I think the same person should be doing the driving for all the samples, else rider usage (of the bike ) will be a very big (and possibly decisive) variable.

The guy who rides at 80 mph for 30 miles on the highway daily, and the guy who is using his bike twice a week to ride 3km each way are not doing the same thing to their oil.

We can't get too scientific on this one because we can't afford it, but I was thinking each participant would do three tests and we'd just see how each performed under the persons described conditions and riding habits. I wonder if we could get a forum discount in the name of scientific research...

I don't know if I will switch from AMSoil to anything else because it is the recommended viscosity range and it is feeling buttery smooth like the Mobil 4T racing 10W-40 did. I might depending on different reviews.

 

[arn]

I don't know if I will switch from AMSoil to anything else because it is the recommended viscosity range and it is feeling buttery smooth like the Mobil 4T racing 10W-40 did. I might depending on different reviews.

The test bike was not a CBR250R, but I think this is the kind of research you are looking for. Wish they had a CI 4 for comparison too....


Motorcycle Oils vs. Automotive Oils


Very interesting results.

 

[Magona250]

it's cheap yes, but why treat it like **** because of that? I personally don't want it to depreciate as much as yours will with that kind of treatment.

Also 500 miles, ya right. If these engines prove to be reliable then using a better oil could mean the difference of 50,000 miles.

lol.

 

[tollarja]

What's with the haters these past couple of days? We used to be such a happy family.

 

[Aufitt]

$25 to test it, $15 to put new stuff in.

 

[tollarja]

Yes, but if you found out you could safely go two intervals you would save money My oil cost more than the test including shipping and tax. I am also curious. Aren't you curious too Aufitt? You keep posting on the oil threads. Don't fight it, you will be assimilated.

 

[Aufitt]

Yes, but if you found out you could safely go two intervals you would save money My oil cost more than the test including shipping and tax. I am also curious. Aren't you curious too Aufitt? You keep posting on the oil threads. Don't fight it, you will be assimilated.

Considering I'll do at least 6 oil changes in a year, no its not an issue.
I like a clean motor... thats what saves money in the long term.

My Enduro bikes had the same treatment. oil change is what?.. 20 mins tops. or 5 mins without a filter.

 

[Michael]

Yes, but if you found out you could safely go two intervals you would save money My oil cost more than the test including shipping and tax. I am also curious. Aren't you curious too Aufitt? You keep posting on the oil threads. Don't fight it, you will be assimilated.

Self confessed forum troll, he is only doing what comes naturally.

Someone who almost forgot to put on his trousers has suggested that I am the forum's biggest troll. Warranted or not, I am happy to share the honours around. People do like to be upset. It would get pretty boring without a troll or a few to offend ya'll a bit.

 

[Motorsports-X]

just wanted to maybe shed some light on the oil topic.. using my experiance in drag racing and engine building.

motul 300v is what i use and recommend in all my race engines, drag bikes, high performance, etc. ( i saw it mentioned here.) The problem with 300v in a street engine is 2 fold. 1. it does not have the rust preventatives that some other oils have in them. oil by itself IS NOT a rust preventative. i know common knowledge says it is, but its not. if your riding every day, this isnt a problem, but if your going to let it sit then use a different oil.

secondly. 300v is made to be used hard, then changed. NOT for extended periods of times. ie 4500 miles (where i change my oil) basically the oil binders break down after multiple heat cycles. this can be mitigated though. IF you are going to use 300v, i strongly recommend you buy the additive ZDDP and mix it according to the instructions. This will bring the zinc levels up to the 1600ppm levels that amsoil has from the current 1100ppm level. amsoil actually performs better in the 4 ball wear test than 300v, but adding the ZDDP will make it perform as good, or better than amsoil. this wont help keep the oil from breaking down, but it WILL give you more protection with more zinc so it becomes less of an issue.

for the "normal" guy. i would strongly recommend using Motul 7100, Mobil 1 4t, or Amsoil. these are my favorite oils in order from (imo) best to worst. however, worst doesn't mean bad. they are all really really good, and these are all better "street" oils than 300v even though they will all perform similarly in the wear dept. this engine will never produce enough stress to really need 300v or amsoil.

I personally am running the 7100. and it works great. the reason i choose motul is because their oils just shift so much better than others. using 7100 has almost eliminated the neutral to 1st problem when sitting at a light. it still happens occasionally but not as bad as with the factory oil. (but ive also only had the bike a week so i could be talkin out my ass lol, it might get bad again) anyone using 300v can attest to the motul shifting qualities. Also motul is the only group 5 oil out of the ones mentioned here. which doesn't mean "better" in performance test, but it is more environmentally friendly in disposal, it is ester based which means less demand for fossil fuels and ester based oils generally leave engines cleaner than PAO base stocks (i also recommend the engine clean at oil changes)

anyways.. thats my 25 cents worth of knowledge on the topic. if you wanna read more into the oil performance google "amsoil whitepaper" and "group 5 oils" that should get you pretty far. also www.bobistheoilguy.com has a ton of info on there as well. and this one for the basics http://www.diolube.com/ESTERS IN SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS.htm

 

[sendler]

just wanted to maybe shed some light on the oil topic.. using my experiance in drag racing and engine building.

Nice post. You should paste it over onto the other thread which has a lot of info in order to keep it all together.
.
http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-...t-10w-40-oil-instead-10w-30-acceptable-2.html
.

 

[armstrr]

just wanted to maybe shed some light on the oil topic.. using my experiance in drag racing and engine building.

motul 300v is what i use and recommend in all my race engines, drag bikes, high performance, etc. ( i saw it mentioned here.) The problem with 300v in a street engine is 2 fold. 1. it does not have the rust preventatives that some other oils have in them. oil by itself IS NOT a rust preventative. i know common knowledge says it is, but its not. if your riding every day, this isnt a problem, but if your going to let it sit then use a different oil.

secondly. 300v is made to be used hard, then changed. NOT for extended periods of times. ie 4500 miles (where i change my oil) basically the oil binders break down after multiple heat cycles. this can be mitigated though. IF you are going to use 300v, i strongly recommend you buy the additive ZDDP and mix it according to the instructions. This will bring the zinc levels up to the 1600ppm levels that amsoil has from the current 1100ppm level. amsoil actually performs better in the 4 ball wear test than 300v, but adding the ZDDP will make it perform as good, or better than amsoil. this wont help keep the oil from breaking down, but it WILL give you more protection with more zinc so it becomes less of an issue.

for the "normal" guy. i would strongly recommend using Motul 7100, Mobil 1 4t, or Amsoil. these are my favorite oils in order from (imo) best to worst. however, worst doesn't mean bad. they are all really really good, and these are all better "street" oils than 300v even though they will all perform similarly in the wear dept. this engine will never produce enough stress to really need 300v or amsoil.

I personally am running the 7100. and it works great. the reason i choose motul is because their oils just shift so much better than others. using 7100 has almost eliminated the neutral to 1st problem when sitting at a light. it still happens occasionally but not as bad as with the factory oil. (but ive also only had the bike a week so i could be talkin out my ass lol, it might get bad again) anyone using 300v can attest to the motul shifting qualities. Also motul is the only group 5 oil out of the ones mentioned here. which doesn't mean "better" in performance test, but it is more environmentally friendly in disposal, it is ester based which means less demand for fossil fuels and ester based oils generally leave engines cleaner than PAO base stocks (i also recommend the engine clean at oil changes)

anyways.. thats my 25 cents worth of knowledge on the topic. if you wanna read more into the oil performance google "amsoil whitepaper" and "group 5 oils" that should get you pretty far. also www.bobistheoilguy.com has a ton of info on there as well. and this one for the basics http://www.diolube.com/ESTERS IN SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS.htm

Just to be clear your opinion is that the best oil for.street use would be motul 7100 followed by mobile 1 4t then amsoil.
I assume 10w30? I'm not sure if these all come in different weights.

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