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Ok guys, I’m hoping an actual smart person can help me. My 2011 cbr250 had a dead battery and my trickle charger hadn’t done anything in 3 days… so I tried to jump it from my Ford Excursion. (Yes, I’m dumb) red to red, black to black. Push the starter button and POP dead. Ok, obviously I’ve damaged things by over amping the system. Here’s my question: Where do I go from here? Fuses? New battery?
 

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Always remove battery from car and walk it over to bike to make sure you’re only borrowing battery. Not car’s charging system. If car was running, you fried bike’s charging system. Test everything to see what was damaged. Then replace as necessary.

  • battery
  • regulator/rectifier
  • stator
  • harness
  • ECU
 

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Honda: INNOVA125i(2010); CBR250R(2013)
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Ok guys, I’m hoping an actual smart person can help me. My 2011 cbr250 had a dead battery and my trickle charger hadn’t done anything in 3 days… so I tried to jump it from my Ford Excursion. (Yes, I’m dumb) red to red, black to black. Push the starter button and POP dead. Ok, obviously I’ve damaged things by over amping the system. Here’s my question: Where do I go from here? Fuses? New battery?
The starter circuit is not protected by any fuse. The starter pulls a high current that typically utilizes most of the motorcycle's battery current capacity (CCA-100A YUASA YTX7L-BS ).
The maximum current that a starter can draw (stall current) depends on its resistance, and the resistance of the starter coils is very low I = V / R.
Because you connected the starter to an "Atomic Power Plant"(, it is possible that you burned the starter? Or damaged the relay? Or damage the starter cables? Try switching to a suitable battery and try again.
If you do not feel confident doing it yourself please feel free to approach a qualified mechanic.

Why "Atomic Power Plant": Ford Excursion has two batteries connected in parallel, each over 600CCA, and both together over 1200CCA.
The battery current limit for Honda CBR250R (OEM) is only 100CCA

1200CCA >>>> (X12) >>>>100CCA
 

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Ok guys, I’m hoping an actual smart person can help me. My 2011 cbr250 had a dead battery and my trickle charger hadn’t done anything in 3 days… so I tried to jump it from my Ford Excursion. (Yes, I’m dumb) red to red, black to black. Push the starter button and POP dead. Ok, obviously I’ve damaged things by over amping the system. Here’s my question: Where do I go from here? Fuses? New battery?
you remind me of Alex, my cousin. he is in such kind of problems every day. with the saying "I am learning from my mistakes."😁
 

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Ok guys, I’m hoping an actual smart person can help me. My 2011 cbr250 had a dead battery and my trickle charger hadn’t done anything in 3 days… so I tried to jump it from my Ford Excursion. (Yes, I’m dumb) red to red, black to black. Push the starter button and POP dead. Ok, obviously I’ve damaged things by over amping the system. Here’s my question: Where do I go from here? Fuses? New battery?
Start with a new battery. Fully charge it before installing.

Check the main fuse. I would think a large surge may fry it.

Try those simple things first, then go from there.

Let us know what you find.
 

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I actually don't think that jumping was the problem. Unless the car alternator was broken/spotty the voltage is in the right range. The starter circuit/starter motor won't and can't draw extra current unless something else is not working correctly in the bike, like the starter is frozen.

Of course I'm not saying that you can't damage the starter by having extra current, but this should be duty cycle related, EG leaving the starter cranking for far longer than the 7ah stock battery can crank will heat the coils and eventually breakdown the insulation.
 

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Ok guys, I’m hoping an actual smart person can help me. My 2011 cbr250 had a dead battery and my trickle charger hadn’t done anything in 3 days… so I tried to jump it from my Ford Excursion. (Yes, I’m dumb) red to red, black to black. Push the starter button and POP dead. Ok, obviously I’ve damaged things by over amping the system. Here’s my question: Where do I go from here? Fuses? New battery?
Don't ever rely on colours on cable-covers to determine polarity!!! I've seen many, many cases where they were reversed and connecting that way will pop, fry, destroy sensitive electronics on bike! ALWAYS look on battery case itself near terminals for + or - symbols for 100% positive identification.
 
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