I don't know, but if you have a competent machine shop and know how to assemble and disassemble engines yourself, and can find a way to change the ECU (should be coming in the next year or so from some aftermarket guys) to allow a higher redline, you should be able to bump the baby CBR up from 25 hp give or take to around 40 hp.
The procedure would be relatively simple. Given that the bike shares the cylinder characteristics (bore, stroke, valve size, etc) as the CBR1000r, but differs in compression (and I think, redline). The first order of business is to bump compression by having a small bit of the mating surface between the head and the cylinder sleeve (block?). The goal is to bump it to around 12 to 1 or 12.5 to 1 from the stock 10.5 to 1 ratio. While the head is off and disassembled, porting the intake and exhaust ports would be fairly easy as well. When the engine is re-assembled the cams could be adjusted for a bit of overlap (exhaust valve stays open a for a short moment as the intake valve opens thus creating a suction effect). If aftermarket cams are ever made available, then would be the appropriate time to install them, along with stronger valve springs.
With the internal work done, the next step should be to remove restriction in the intake and exhaust areas. Given that we would likewise increase the redline and be shifting the powerband upwards in the RPM range, a free-flow exhaust and intake would be helpful (where if we kept the stock trim and wanted lots of low end power, the free flowing exhaust would cause losses in the lower RPM ranges). The pipe should be something light and with a straight-through design, if not a straight pipe. You gain the added power, as well as losing the weight of the stock piece. On the intake side, sourcing a larger throttle body and working with the airbox would net a small gain in power.
After all the physical modifications were completed, the bike's ECU should be tuned for a higher redline and for a bit richer fuel map to make the most of the higher airflow and higher compression without detonation.
I can't promise the bike will sound like a champ, but it should be very quick with those modifications.
Once I own my bike (paid off- no more Honda Financing), and I have relegated it to something less than a commuter (just for fun bike likely, or a partner bike to a future 675 Daytona and KLR650) as well as when my 5 years of warranty is expired, I plan on doing those modifications as well as tuning the suspension more thoroughly and adjusting the ergonomics to make it more aggressive for track days and aggressive back-road riding.
The procedure would be relatively simple. Given that the bike shares the cylinder characteristics (bore, stroke, valve size, etc) as the CBR1000r, but differs in compression (and I think, redline). The first order of business is to bump compression by having a small bit of the mating surface between the head and the cylinder sleeve (block?). The goal is to bump it to around 12 to 1 or 12.5 to 1 from the stock 10.5 to 1 ratio. While the head is off and disassembled, porting the intake and exhaust ports would be fairly easy as well. When the engine is re-assembled the cams could be adjusted for a bit of overlap (exhaust valve stays open a for a short moment as the intake valve opens thus creating a suction effect). If aftermarket cams are ever made available, then would be the appropriate time to install them, along with stronger valve springs.
With the internal work done, the next step should be to remove restriction in the intake and exhaust areas. Given that we would likewise increase the redline and be shifting the powerband upwards in the RPM range, a free-flow exhaust and intake would be helpful (where if we kept the stock trim and wanted lots of low end power, the free flowing exhaust would cause losses in the lower RPM ranges). The pipe should be something light and with a straight-through design, if not a straight pipe. You gain the added power, as well as losing the weight of the stock piece. On the intake side, sourcing a larger throttle body and working with the airbox would net a small gain in power.
After all the physical modifications were completed, the bike's ECU should be tuned for a higher redline and for a bit richer fuel map to make the most of the higher airflow and higher compression without detonation.
I can't promise the bike will sound like a champ, but it should be very quick with those modifications.
Once I own my bike (paid off- no more Honda Financing), and I have relegated it to something less than a commuter (just for fun bike likely, or a partner bike to a future 675 Daytona and KLR650) as well as when my 5 years of warranty is expired, I plan on doing those modifications as well as tuning the suspension more thoroughly and adjusting the ergonomics to make it more aggressive for track days and aggressive back-road riding.