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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i picked up a can to experiment with.
was going to do the tank first but decided to start with something small.
i have a few keys on my ring and they were marking up the
black paint around the ignition area when they hung down.
turned out alot better than i expected:)
four light coats and it looks like i didnt even do it/blended in real well.

next is the knee area on the sides of the tank.
just to protect the tank from rubbing when tucking on the interstate.
 

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i picked up a can to experiment with.
was going to do the tank first but decided to start with something small.
i have a few keys on my ring and they were marking up the
black paint around the ignition area when they hung down.
turned out alot better than i expected:)
four light coats and it looks like i didnt even do it/blended in real well.

next is the knee area on the sides of the tank.
just to protect the tank from rubbing when tucking on the interstate.
I love the stuff because it's soo easy to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
i might do the rear sets,they are off right now.
never have a passenger so i like them off

i have already used this spray can on a few things in the garage.
i dont think i'd do the rims on my bike because if i had them off i would go ahead and probably powdercoat them white.

had the windshield all taped off to spray then decided at the last second
not to.

you can see here how my keys were damaging the finish,not now
 

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I just use a single key with a simple fabric key chain reading "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT."
I use this because my key's were doing the same thing http://mykeyport.com
Plus I want to be able to get in my house without carrying more then 1 key chain and losing it on the road. Also it's not a plane lol.

I covered the chrome that was on the outer edge of my RS4 grill (yes I know I put the S4 badge on it, the car is an S4) went through the car wash about an hour later and it looked exactly the same as before. The stuff it pretty resilient.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
nice car.
i'm trying to figure out how to make a built up line.
it works super if there is a broken edge you can tape to.
something like this mockup is what i want.
i dont want to do the whole cbr tank,just an oval shape
on the sides where your knees hit and around where your crotch
rides the tank.thats the only areas that are scratch prone for me.

i also did this goped fender,it had some scratches and was really dull.
did a wet sand lastnight just sprayed with 4 light coats,set a timer
for 30mins each coat.
:eek:looks freeking better than new:cool:did it without even taking off just taped off good and threw some rags around to catch the minimal over
spray.
i cant stop finding things to use it on:D
my o6 ranger sport 16's are still mint,might do them this summer to keep
them spotless.
 

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nice car.
i'm trying to figure out how to make a built up line.
it works super if there is a broken edge you can tape to.
something like this mockup is what i want.
i dont want to do the whole cbr tank,just an oval shape
on the sides where your knees hit and around where your crotch
rides the tank.thats the only areas that are scratch prone for me.

i also did this goped fender,it had some scratches and was really dull.
did a wet sand lastnight just sprayed with 4 light coats,set a timer
for 30mins each coat.
:eek:looks freeking better than new:cool:did it without even taking off just taped off good and threw some rags around to catch the minimal over
spray.
i cant stop finding things to use it on:D
my o6 ranger sport 16's are still mint,might do them this summer to keep
them spotless.
I think painters tape is gonna be your best bet, try doing that and then once you get 4-5 coats (high traffic area, it might be better) peel the tape off on the last coat while it's still wet. That's what Fonzie told me to do (owner of dipyourcar.com)
 

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I have used this stuff before on tools. Everything I have used it on I sanded and cleaned and it always wears right off. Just my .02
They say it's to be used for tools but I don't believe it. If I were going to dip a tool handle I think I'd have to do like 15 coats like making a candle from scratch. The spray on stuff is awesome for many uses though but I NEVER sand before applying. The reason I like it is just because it can be taken off if I don't like it, want to to do something different, or just want to do it over.
 

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Got the bike out, cleaned it, and took a few pictures.

This is the heat shield of the bike in Plasti Dip. I need to redo it because it sticks out so far that I bumped it into something and it peeled up the corner just a tiny bit. But if it had been painted it would have been more expensive to fix and been much more work.

 

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I use this be

I covered the chrome that was on the outer edge of my RS4 grill (yes I know I put the S4 badge on it, the car is an S4) went through the car wash about an hour later and it looked exactly the same as before. The stuff it pretty resilient.

That looks much better!

I know we bumped heads before about this stuff, but I think it does have its place. This is a good example. I agree - definitely don't sand before applying. For areas that don't get any abrasion it works very good, and you can peel it and redo if necessary.

For the exhaust shield (and wheels), not so much. Powder coat is the only thing that's going to stand-up in the long run, but it is easy to redo with the Plasti-dip if necessary.


Jay
 

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That looks much better!

I know we bumped heads before about this stuff, but I think it does have its place. This is a good example. I agree - definitely don't sand before applying. For areas that don't get any abrasion it works very good, and you can peel it and redo if necessary.

For the exhaust shield (and wheels), not so much. Powder coat is the only thing that's going to stand-up in the long run, but it is easy to redo with the Plasti-dip if necessary.


Jay
On the exhaust heat shield if it was powder coated and I bumped it like I did, it would need sand blasted and re powder coated. Powder cracks and flakes easily in my experience. So 20 minutes of plast dip and it looks amazing and can be fixed later or taken off if I sell the bike.

Plus powder coat scratches, this doesn't. And your leg brushing it is going to take a long time to do any damage. But your shoe's can scuff powder coat.
 

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On the exhaust heat shield if it was powder coated and I bumped it like I did, it would need sand blasted and re powder coated. Powder cracks and flakes easily in my experience. So 20 minutes of plast dip and it looks amazing and can be fixed later or taken off if I sell the bike.

Plus powder coat scratches, this doesn't. And your leg brushing it is going to take a long time to do any damage. But your shoe's can scuff powder coat.
You need to find a new powder coater!

No way should powder crack of flake-off. When done properly, you can coat a piece of regular aluminum foil, scrunch it into a ball, open it up, and still have the PC attached. Try doing that with paint!

Plasti-dip is worth a try on the shield, but powder should stand up to a ton of abuse - anything this side of a crash - before giving up.

How will Plasti-dip do on the shield when it's 100F outside and the pipe is hot? Won't it get sticky?


Jay
 

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You need to find a new powder coater!

No way should powder crack of flake-off. When done properly, you can coat a piece of regular aluminum foil, scrunch it into a ball, open it up, and still have the PC attached. Try doing that with paint!

Plasti-dip is worth a try on the shield, but powder should stand up to a ton of abuse - anything this side of a crash - before giving up.

How will Plasti-dip do on the shield when it's 100F outside and the pipe is hot? Won't it get sticky?


Jay
I drove it all last summer like that. Including a couple days around 103* and it was 100% unaffected.
 

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You don't see what happening?

The powder sticking, or the paint sticking?


Jay
I have to agree with him Powder coating is fairly similar to paint, the difference is that it's statically charged to cling to the surface and then baked on.

Now if you anodized aluminum foil that would hold up to folding it like that but that's a totally different process.
 

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I have to agree with him Powder coating is fairly similar to paint, the difference is that it's statically charged to cling to the surface and then baked on.

Now if you anodized aluminum foil that would hold up to folding it like that but that's a totally different process.
You're just anti-powder! I'm going to call you Mr. Plasti-dip.

There's more difference between powder and paint than just the way it's applied. Powder is significantly different than paint in many ways.

I'll see if I can get some proof for you!


Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You're just anti-powder! I'm going to call you Mr. Plasti-dip.

There's more difference between powder and paint than just the way it's applied. Powder is significantly different than paint in many ways.

I'll see if I can get some proof for you!


Jay
you have to know that powder coating is a type of ceramic,how do you think its going to hold up to the crumpling of the aluminum?
would only be a strong layer of protection if on a good solid base anyways.
i dont think anyones saying that plasti coat is better, just easy
to use for the basic applications where it protects a surface,and can be removed easy is a plus to.
 
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