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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My little CBR has been giving me trouble if I haven't started it in a while. By a while I mean if I haven't driven it in a week, it's pretty much completely dead. I can roll it down a hill and pop the clutch, it starts up. I drive it, shut it off, and it starts right up, but if it is more than a few days in between starts, I may or may not be able to start it. Sometimes if the bike has been ridden only a few days ago, the starter tries to crank. Sometimes (like today) if it's been a week or more, it doesn't crank. Lights come on and power goes blank when I try to start it. I can't figure out exactly what's wrong but I think something is sucking the battery power... or my battery is just crap. Once about 6 months ago I left the lights on for 30 minutes or so and had to recharge the battery. After that it was still fine. The not starting bit started 2 months ago after an interstate move. I didn't drive it for 3 weeks and it was as dead as can be. After that, I've had problems. I didn't leave the lights on or anything like that. After the 1st time, I always check to make sure the engine is shut off and the lights are off. I have a LED system hard wired and a P3 brake lights wired in as well. The problem happened long after the LEDs were wired in but before I did the P3 upgrade, so I don't think the wiring we did was faulty. My guess is running the battery down, and leaving it in the cold rainy weather isn't helping. Would a new battery fix it? If so, will a bigger battery fit? size?
 

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Your extra non-stock lighting could be drawing down your battery. Even though the alternator is sending current to the battery when the bike is running, if the alternator output is significantly less than what all the electrics are pulling from the battery, you'll end up with a net loss. That said, your battery may no longer be able to hold a full charge, due to the repeated discharges. You can take the battery to almost any auto parts store and have it load tested to be sure, before you shell out $$ for a new one. If you do end up replacing it, you could see if a YTX9L-BS is the same physical size as the stock YTX7L-BS. Still, the alternator is only going to be able to put out 0.34kW/5000 rpm, no matter what battery you can stuff under the seat.
 

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left the key in mine overnight twice in a year, both times flattening battery..
both times clutch started her no problem then rode for half an hour
parking on incline, clutch started her each time for about a week
by then when i tried the starter she fired up immediately..

she does get ridden every day tho so that factor absent for me..
altho previous hondas have had to sit for periods incl weeks
before being ridden [navy] incl cold areas, with no problems..

intended to bet a battery tender or suchlike but shes gone so well
so far just by clutch starting for a week with no problems thereafter
that i havnt gotten around to the tender.. after swapping out a
lv slip-on for a weight saving of nearly 14lb over stock im interested
in lightweight anti-gravity lithium batteries, which save around 7 +
lb over stock high over bikes c of g.. havnt taken the plunge yet,
but this was an appealing alternative while my battery was
still under suspicion..

probably wouldnt hurt to have your battery tested..
 

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Plugging into a Battery Tender between rides, especially if it is going to sit for awhile, would be a good idea for a bike with non-stock lighting. The Battery Tenders come with a 2P pigtail connector that stays connected to the battery, so you can plug the charger in without having to break out any tools... just route the 2P pigtail connector so you can access it under the pillion seat.
 

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atakacs,
This may help. You will need to buy or borrow a digital volt meter (cheap to buy, and invaluable).
Check the battery voltage at rest - 12 hour or more with no use or charger.
12.2v = not bad. 12.4v = good. 12.6v excellent.
Also, check your charging system with the engine running at above idle. It should read 14.2 to 14.4 volts. If not, try revving higher, but no use going above 5k.
Amazon will sell you a new 7ah lead acid OEM type battery for about $25 shipped.

Good luck.

Rick
 

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Another thing to check is if you have a "current leak" when the bike is fully off.

-Set your voltmeter to measure the current flow (mAmps)
-Remove the main fuse
-put one lead on one side of the fuse holder and the other lead on the other, (the polarity does not matter for this test)
With the bike fully off you should have zero reading. Anything higher could indicate that something is draining the battery.

Also note that the battery looses a lot of charge capacity even after one time it was drained. My money is on that you need a new battery.
 

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re battery weights, '7lb' an average fm anti-gravity info page..
point being not specific weight but the fact of weight loss..

cbr250r stock battery = 5.4lb, shorei lfx141-b512 = 1.5lb
thus a weight reduction, with that shorei battery 3.9lb
depending on which one you use, the 250-suitable
anti-gravity battery claims 1lb weight..

anyway, point being the option if battery has carked it
of installing a new lighter modern one saving 4lb
high on the bikes centerline..
 

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My battery started going dead as soon as the temp dropped into the 40s. Got worse in the 30s and almost completely dead in the 20s. Needless to say, it's been on a Battery Tender now. But these stock batteries are crap in the cold. Then again, I know two guys who have this bike and their batteries went dead in warm weather so..maybe this brand is just crappy to begin with?
 

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My battery started going dead as soon as the temp dropped into the 40s. Got worse in the 30s and almost completely dead in the 20s. Needless to say, it's been on a Battery Tender now. But these stock batteries are crap in the cold. Then again, I know two guys who have this bike and their batteries went dead in warm weather so..maybe this brand is just crappy to begin with?
I haven't had any problems starting in colder temps with the stock Yuasa battery. The Yuasa brand has been around for a long time, and has been the OEM battery supplier for all the Japanese motorcycle brands. Obviously, they can have a small percentage of faulty batteries that slip through the final QC process. Maybe I've been lucky, I haven't gotten a bad battery yet and have bought more than a few over the years.

That said, it is certainly possible that your battery was not fully charged by the dealer when they did the pre-delivery service. These batteries are shipped dry, with a separate acid pack. Once the battery is filled, it must be fully charged... one would assume that any dealer would know this, and charge the battery for the required amount of time. It would not surprise me if some dealers short change the amount of time on the charger in the rush to get bikes ready to go.

One of the first things I did when I got my CBR home, was to put the battery on the charger to verify that it had a full charge.
 

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I use sealed batteries from Westco (manufactured in Viet Nam) and always put a new battery on the tender to make sure that it is fully charged. It usually only takes ten minutes, but, it can't hurt to check and top them off before putting them in use.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Battery dead again today. Drove it 2 days ago. Bought a multimeter today & had the guy @ autozone check my battery. He said it was half charged. He didn't elaborate. I'm not sure he knew much about batteries.

My son also told me that sometimes the other kids in the neighborhood play with my bike & push my buttons on days I take the car. They might be turning my under glow LEDs on since they are wired in such a way that they don't need the key in the ignition.

So I'm giving my battery a full charge overnight then going to test some things tomorrow & have my kid educate & if necessary scold some kids.

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Discussion Starter #14
Charged the battery overnight & installed it 2 days ago. I couldn't get any amp draw with the multimeter through the main circuit or the add-on LEDs. 0.00 mA. Figured it was good to go. Almost wouldn't start this morning but did. However it wouldn't start after work today. Had to clutch start it down the hill. IDKWTFE2DO. Could my alternator be shot?

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its the naughty people, who hurt the battery,
the good people protect daddys motorcycle
from naughty people sitting on it and
moving the wrong switches "!"

the naughty people are also silly,
because they dont know that motorcycles
can FALL OVER on top of people "!!"
especially when theyre not on
their center stand...

the good people, help daddy clean and wash
the motorcycle, thus - learning - to respect
and value the motorcycle..
 

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I explained to you in a previous post on this thread how to test for alternator output using a voltmeter.
Also, your battery is probably shot by now due to repeated deep discharge cycles, which it is not made to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I explained to you in a previous post on this thread how to test for alternator output using a voltmeter.
Also, your battery is probably shot by now due to repeated deep discharge cycles, which it is not made to do.
I checked the voltage. About 12.3 straight across the terminals with the bike off. When idling it's about 14.6. When I rev it, it kicks back to about 12.3. I thought that was odd. I pulled all the 10A fuses & checked amp draw & voltage across them. I still can't find an amp draw anywhere. (Maybe my multimeter is faulty?) And the voltage is zero across all fuses except for the clock/gauge cluster which (oddly) kept increasing from a very low voltage up to more than 12v.

Not sure where to go from here. Bike started right up today after 3 days of not running.

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Basics, Got to Cover the Basics First.

I checked the voltage. About 12.3 straight across the terminals with the bike off. When idling it's about 14.6. When I rev it, it kicks back to about 12.3. I thought that was odd.
Greetings atakacs,

If the battery was charged above 12.6v, before you let it sit for 3 days. Now it only has 12.3v. Their is a internal problem with the Battery.

The Reason the Battery Voltage droped to 12.3v when you increased the rpms of the engine. The Alternator went to Maximum Output. The Voltage Regulator is equipped with a Self Protection Circuit. To Protect the Charging System (rotor, stator, voltage regulator and battery). The Voltage Regulator will Short all of the Alternator's Voltage Output to Ground. So you will only measure the voltage of the Battery.

Charge the Battery. Have it Load Tested.
.
 

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Greetings atakacs,

The Reason the Battery Voltage droped to 12.3v when you increased the rpms of the engine. The Alternator went to Maximum Output. The Voltage Regulator will Short all of the Alternator's Voltage Output to Ground. So you will only measure the voltage of the Battery.

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Sorry but I'm not convinced. It seems more likely that the connection through the 30 amp main fuse is bad. This is the one in front of the battery with the starter relay not in the main fuse box. The charge rate should peak but not disappear when the revs rise. That's not to say that the battery isn't shot. The capacity when new is only just enough for the headlights and starter at the same time.

Even when mine was new and fully charged on a good quality charger the voltage during starting drops to 9v or less.

Regards Roadster
 
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