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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting into racing and can't decide whether to race my CBR250RA and put $2k into getting it race ready, or swap it out for a used Ninja 250R. Have any of you got any experience racing the CBR250's? Is it worth keeping for more torque than a Ninja, or will it just get shut down overall because of less hp than a Ninja?

Cheers,
Rachel.
 

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A few on this forum have had the CBR250 out on a track, some on a track day, and some have raced.

My guess is that different tracks would favour different bikes to some extent. Tight circuits would be to the more torquey CBR's advantage. Longer straights would favour the higher hp of the Ninja.

However, in the end it is usually the better rider that wins.
 

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plus 1 on gofast bike. That 9 grand worth of motorcycle right there.
 

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I'm getting into racing and can't decide whether to race my CBR250RA and put $2k into getting it race ready, or swap it out for a used Ninja 250R. Have any of you got any experience racing the CBR250's? Is it worth keeping for more torque than a Ninja, or will it just get shut down overall because of less hp than a Ninja?

Cheers,
Rachel.
2 grand... whahahaa. 2 grand is what you'll spend in a month racing. Seriously pricey. Have you done anything to the bike yet?
dont forget Leathers, Helmet, gloves, boots. Tires. another 2k..
 

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Imagine the time and labour he's done.. then there is the invaluable setup and experince in that bike.

and its never been dropped.
 

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the only difference between his bike and mine at this point is the penske rear shock and the paint job. Oh and The QS. About another grand for me to drop before i get there. HAHA!! sheesh.... I feel like as soon as I finally get it done Im going to be like his kid Jay and ditch the 250 all together for the 6hunnie..
Next time I am 100% buying a used track bike already kitted out with a season on it.
 

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This is the 22mm restrictor the kawasaki riders must fit for 250 production here-



All about parity.
Headers must be stock, carbs/EU must be stock. Shock must be stock, forks visibly stock.
 

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I'm getting into racing and can't decide whether to race my CBR250RA and put $2k into getting it race ready, or swap it out for a used Ninja 250R. Have any of you got any experience racing the CBR250's? Is it worth keeping for more torque than a Ninja, or will it just get shut down overall because of less hp than a Ninja?

Cheers,
Rachel.
I've put a wee bit more than 2 grand into mods on my bike and say that it is noooo where ready for a track. Aufitt has been tracking his bike for close to a year, enquire of him what mods to his bike has been made. I may be wrong but Idon't think he's installed any additional fuel boosters (ie Bazzaz or Dyno jet's) to his ride. Course, the specific track rules appy
 

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There is alot involved in building up a bike.
The USA would have very similar regs to these-
(except we cant replace shock and must use orig header pipe.)


Motorcycling Australia GCR's

15.10 250 PRODUCTION

15.10.0.1 Subject to the required and permitted alterations set out below, 250 Production machines will be subject to air inlet restrictors for power parity

adjustment, air restrictor dimensions will be set out in the Supplementary Regulations after MA Authorised testing and must:

a) Be fitted with ADR compliance plates for the particular machine,
b) Be eligible for registration in all States and Territories in which they compete,
c) Be of a make and model lawfully sold in Australia,
d) Be as constructed by the manufacturer,
e) be a current model and at least 200 production machines of that make and model must have been imported into Australia by the manufacturer or the Australian distributor representing the manufacturer,
f) Be manufactured with a 250cc Four stroke engine,

15.10.0.2 Tyres must be homologated by MA
and or listed in the Supplementary regulations and must:
a) Be commercially available in Australia,
b) Be manufactured for road use in all weather conditions,
c) Be not less than the machine manufacturer’s recommended speed and load rating,
d) Be worn no more than to the minimum tread depth indicators,
e) Not be manufactured for only competition use,
f) Not have an augmented or modified tread pattern,
g) Comply with the service description (load and speed rating) as permanently moulded on the OEM tyre side wall,
h) Comply with the relevant requirements of the nominated standard. e.g. ETRTO, JATMA & TRA.

15.10.0.3 The following must be removed:
a) Head lamp,
b) Tail lamp,
c) Reflectors,
d) Horn,
e) Traffic indicators,
f) Mirrors,
g) Centre and side stands,
h) Registration plate / bracket and label holder,
i) OEM top rear chain Guard,
j) Passenger footrests,

15.10.0.4 The following may be replaced or modified:

a) Fairings and stream lining including screen, rear body work and seat section, mudguards, tank covers. Providing the replacements are of the same shape and appearance as the original,
b) Mounting bracket for fairing, screen and instruments, but replacements must be mounted in the original position on the frame,
c) Spark plug type,
d) External gearing and chain, but not chain pitch,
e) Brake pads, linings and brake hoses,
f) The muffler and tail connector pipe at the bolt-on or slip-on flange joints only, the original header pipes must remain as supplied by the manufacturer,
g) Front and Rear suspension springs and internal damping parts may be modified or replaced, but the external appearance of the forks and rear shock must not be changed,
h) Handlebars and handlebar mounted levers, but replacement handlebars must be mounted in the original position on the fork assembly or top clamp,
i) Footrests and foot controls, but the replacements must be mounted at the original mounting points,
j) Air filter element,
k) Engine and gearbox breather tubes and the radiator bottle overflow must exhaust into the air box to the rear of the intakes.

The 15 Road RaCinG2012 MANUAL OF MOTORCYCLE SPORT 125 lower air box breather tubes must be blocked.

15.10.0.5 The following may be added:
a) Steering damper,
b) MA approved fuel metering devices that plug into the original electrical connectors with no modification to the wiring harness. Std OEM ECU must be retained and operative,
c) Screw in replaceable fuel metering jets but carburettor body castings and slides must remain as manufactured by the Manufacturer,
d) Frame Protective Sliders.

15.11 PRODUCTION

15.11.0.1 Subject to the required and permitted alterations set out below, solo Production machines must:
a) Be fitted with ADR compliance plates for the particular machine,
b) Be eligible for registration in all States and Territories in which they compete,
c) Be of a make and model lawfully sold in Australia,
d) Be as constructed by, or modified with the approval of, the manufacturer so as to conform with Australian Design Rules for normal road use.

15.11.0.2 Tyres must: (Clarification TBA vide event promoters regulations)
a) Be commercially available in Australia,
b) Be manufactured for road use in all weather conditions,
c) Be not less than the machine manufacturer’s recommended speed and load rating,
d) Be worn no more than to the minimum tread depth indicators,
e) Not be manufactured for only competition use,
f) Not have an augmented or modified tread pattern,
g) Comply with the service description (load and speed rating) permanently moulded on the OEM tyre side wall,
h) Comply with the relevant requirements of the nominated standard. e.g. ETRTO, JATMA & TRA.

15.11.0.4 The following must be removed:
a) Headlamp,
b) Tail lamp,
c) Reflectors,
d) Horn,
e) Traffic indicators,
f) Mirrors,
g) Centre and side stands,
h) Registration plate / bracket and label holder.

15.11.0.5 Any sharp edges left by the removal of the above components must be protected by a rolled edge or beading of minimum 3mm diameter.

15.11.0.6 The following may be replaced or modified:
a) Fairing,
b) Screen,
c) Rear bodywork,
d) Seat,
e) Mudguards,
f) Tank covers and
g) Side covers, replacements must be the same in shape and appearance as, and no lighter in weight than, the original.
h) Mounting bracket(s) for fairing, screen and instruments, but replacements must be mounted in the original position on the frame,
i) Handlebars, but replacements must be mounted in the original position on the fork assembly,
j) Instruments and handlebar switches, provided disconnections are made at the standard connectors and the main wiring loom is not cut,
k) Passenger footrests,
l) A steering damper may be fitted,
m) Fuel metering jets, but not carburettor slides or needles. Replacements must be within a numerical tolerance of plus or minus 10% of the original,
n) Spark plug type, leads and caps,
o) External gearing, but not chain pitch,
p) Brake Pads.
 

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What could you do with 2 grand that would make it "race-ready"?
Start with:
race body work
paint job
suspension upgrades
fork springs & emmulators
Preske rear shock
rest sets
clip on bars
Power commander & dyno tune
Full race exhaust system - or at least a 'can' to replace that heavy stock unit
SS brake line - for the front at a minimum
re-gearing front & rear - probably a 520 conversion for ease of getting a wide range rear sprockets & counter shaft gears
Race compound brake pads
Race tires
Spare set of wheels for rain tires

That's over $2k right there !
 

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Start with:
race body work 650 4 sharkskins plus shipping. 500 for hotbodies
paint job - 150-250
suspension upgrades:
fork springs & emmulators 200 plus rebuild.. dont forget fork oil
Preske rear shock - 500 -750 for ohlins...
rest sets 175 for tyga
clip on bars 200 woodcraft
Power commander & dyno tune 350 plus tune.. 200 for tune typically
SS brake line - for the front at a minimum 100
re-gearing front & rear - probably a 520 conversion for ease of getting a wide range rear sprockets & counter shaft gears driven sprockets -about 300 for a nice range. already have a 520 on it.
Race compound brake pads dunno
Race tires 200 plus install
Spare set of wheels for rain tires you can have your irc's notched

That's over $2k right there !
dont forget -
leathers
helmet
gloves
boots
race spools
stands
tools
easy up
trailer or truck to track
fuel
saftey wiring
quick shifter
air filter
frequent maintenance
racing lisc fees
race entry fees



buy a used racebike for about 3-4 grand.
get a ninja.
 

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........
buy a used racebike for about 3-4 grand.
get a ninja.
But it's NOT a Honda !

Go Big Red !!!

:D:D:D

All kidding aside...we race a Ninja just for that reason....there are many used race bikes out there, parts are fairly easy to find, the setup is widely known & easy to do

The 250R is in development for racing & a bit harder to get set up to be competitive :(
 

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Mine is set up. I love the way it handles. Its just really underpowered. I took it out on interstate yesterday because Im playing with sprockets and fully tucked i couldn't pass 92 MPH. it couldn't pull to redline even down hill tucked. This was with plus 1 in the back so the speedo is off by about 6. so my top speed down hill was 86-88ish. i weigh about 165. It its torquey and i can pull on guys coming out of the corners but if i don't hit the line just perfect and get all the drive I can get then I'm getting passed in the straight. I just don't see this bike competing for titles. I really want to see them release a HRC kit for it and I hope WERA allows it. It just cant compete with the ninjas. When they finally get FI.. forget about it. everyone out on the track is pushing 32-33 hp and we are pushing 26. Now short tight tracks. You can run.
 

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I feel ya!

Hey Dawg, I'm hitting 47 in August and may be getting into 250 racing here in Korea. I raced modified EX500's at Willow Springs from 96-2000. Time of my life! I'm in pre-racing mode right now working out running, dieting, the works. Last race I was in I was 145, now an obese 180. I'll get there though, I want to race again more then anything else. Just wondering if you could put me in the right direction for a used race prepped 250 Ninja. All the Koreans are using the honda, but I love Kawis. They say I'm crazy, but we will see!



But it's NOT a Honda !

Go Big Red !!!

:D:D:D

All kidding aside...we race a Ninja just for that reason....there are many used race bikes out there, parts are fairly easy to find, the setup is widely known & easy to do

The 250R is in development for racing & a bit harder to get set up to be competitive :(
 

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this weekend at the track. I had someone that races a ninja 250 and she* yeah I said she has been topping the podium in wera novice. She pretty fast but still novice. faster than me. we were talking about how underpowered my bike is and someone brought up "its all rider" yes to an extent. So we found one of the fastest guys on the track. Hes a Wera expert class and said here. race her.
he took a practice session and he was railing the CBR. it was fastest I had seen it go. his entry speed was awesome and he was pretty smooth. SO they raced and she beat him pretty bad. He would inch up on her in the corners and start to gain but when they hit the straights it was over. over the coarse of 15 laps or so she broke away pretty far. He brought the bike back and was glowing even though he lost. He said the bike handled so awesome. He said it felt so much better than ninjas but just didnt have enough power. He said you get this thing in the 30HP area and everyone will run these. said hes going to buy one now. lol

That said. it shows how truly underpowered these bikes are. I dont think it can be competitive with out some engine tuning/building.
 

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It's the nature of a twin to have more surface area to burn fuel/air for a given displacement over a single cylinder. The single will give you better economy. Honda designed our CBR250R for low-maintenance, long (100,000+ miles) service life, and best in class fuel efficiency. In order to compete and best the Ninja's parallel twin, you would have to throw all that out the door and build a high compression, high revving "Hot 250 Single". It would consume a lot more fuel ( probably running in the low 40 MPG range ) and require frequent engine rebuilds ( every 7,500-10,000 miles ). It would be a screamer and be competitive with the Ninja at the cost of high $ maintainence. Honda made the business decision that reliability and economy trumps additional power for their business model in the 250R.
Maybe Honda could offer a racing engine rebuild upgrade kit and ECU for people who only are interested in racing the 250R on a track and are willing to let reliability and economy be damned.
 

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Yeah your right. My hopes are that the race leagues realize that the bike is outgunned and allow a racing kit. The issue is if you are running E superstock, you cannot crack the engine. You'll get DQ'd. Honda is obvious serious about people racing this bike as they are offering a contingency where Kawi is not.
 

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I won 2nd place on the Honda with WERA this weekend at lil tally. It's a short track, 1.5 miles and even still, the ninjas would pull me on the straights... Also, I'm 235lbs so that didn't help against the much smaller riders... My corner speed was faster than most but even the short straights gave an advantage to the ninjas....got to find more power...oh and lose weight!!! But I am $500 richer per the Honda contingency...
 
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