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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anybody know how to move the rear brake pedal down a little bit? The dealer was a little unclear with their instructions and right now when I rest my foot on the pedal, the weight of my foot alone is enough to depress the brake quite a bit.
 

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-Hold the 10mm hex on the brake master cylinder rod with an open end spanner
-Using a 12mm open end spanner loosen the locknut.
-Adjust the rod to desired height, (check it while wearing your riding boots)
-Tighten the locknut.

Mine is set very low, about 20- 25mm down from std and lower than the footpeg.
 

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After you have done this,
check brake light sensitivity and adjust it with the plastic nut by hand on the sensor switch.
page 73 of the manual.
 

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Thankyou sir, made the change and now doesn't hurt moving my foot up to apply rear brakes (Bad ankle).

Might take some time to get the squishy feeling back.
 

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Do you have to take out the rearset to do this adjustment? I had to take mine out...

Are you referring to the locknut below the master cylinder? A picture would be much appreciated!
 

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Thankyou sir, made the change and now doesn't hurt moving my foot up to apply rear brakes (Bad ankle).

Might take some time to get the squishy feeling back.
Yeah I like the pedal down and out of the way,
I rarely ever use the rear brake anyway,
Hopefully wont be hitting any gravel :eek: but if I do, my foot can just go forward on the footpeg and down.
 

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Do you have to take out the rearset to do this adjustment? I had to take mine out...

Are you referring to the locknut below the master cylinder? A picture would be much appreciated!
No you dont remove anything.
The 12mm nut at the back of the brakepedal is the locknut-
you cant miss it.
Then wind the 10mm one on the master cylinder up or down.

Read my instruction again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
-Hold the 10mm hex on the brake master cylinder rod with an open end spanner
-Using a 12mm open end spanner loosen the locknut.
-Adjust the rod to desired height, (check it while wearing your riding boots)
-Tighten the locknut.

Mine is set very low, about 20- 25mm down from std and lower than the footpeg.
Thanks a lot, just wasn't sure if one of those nuts was going to mess with the master cylinder itself so I was hesitant to try it
 

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Thanks a lot, just wasn't sure if one of those nuts was going to mess with the master cylinder itself so I was hesitant to try it
Yes I actually wondered that at first, but it turns with no problem,
adjusted it when new and again 6500km later.
 

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Gear shift maintenance & height adjustment.

Remove the gear lever off its mount with a 5mm T handle.
Lube the mount and the pivot hole with antisieze or grease.
Replace it back on and tighten the bolt.

Check the bolt at the shifter arm spline (on the engine) is tight with a 10mm ring spanner,
it will have worked loose from new , I anti seize the thread so it stays tight.

Adjustment-
Get 2 open end 10mm spanners,
loosen both nuts on the shifter rod, one end is a left hand thread so you move them the same way,
wind the rod so the gear lever moves to your desired position (the lower the better)
Tighten both nuts at the same time with both spanners.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Remove the gear lever off its mount with a 5mm T handle.
Lube the mount and the pivot hole with antisieze or grease.
Replace it back on and tighten the bolt.

Check the bolt at the shifter arm spline (on the engine) is tight with a 10mm ring spanner,
it will have worked loose from new , I anti seize the thread so it stays tight.

Adjustment-
Get 2 open end 10mm spanners,
loosen both nuts on the shifter rod, one end is a left hand thread so you move them the same way,
wind the rod so the gear lever moves to your desired position (the lower the better)
Tighten both nuts at the same time with both spanners.
I may be needing this one too, I did miss a few upshifts my first time on the bike (I should have my endorsement by Monday, as of now I've only ridden my CBR once) If the gear shifter was lower Im sure it would be easier to firmly pull it up all of the way
 
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