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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Guys ,
This is my first post !
I would like to know how the rear disk pad to be removed ... any tutorials (Pictures or Videos ) of CBR 250R would be great ... Please help me out !

Thanks :):)
 

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You remove the rear wheel, open the caliper (usually covers over bolts with allen (hex) wrench access) and remove the pads; they just fit in yet can't fall out when the caliper is closed up. Check how the spring is oriented so that you replace it correctly.
 

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Start off by backing the pads off the rotor as much as you can, if you are replacing the pads. You will need the clearance for the new pads. It will back some of the fluid up into the reservoir.
Remove the silver bolt that goes through a hole in each pad.
Remove the rear caliper bolt (its a floating caliper).
Rotate the rear of the caliper up and you should be able to remove the pads.
I did not read this in any manual but it seems rather straightforward.
Done a few hundred brake jobs.

regards
Badger
 

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Why remove the rear wheel?

regards
Badger
I figure that I'm inept enough without trying to replace the pads with the rotor in place. Also, I usually install speed bleeders with the first pad change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Start off by backing the pads off the rotor as much as you can, if you are replacing the pads. You will need the clearance for the new pads. It will back some of the fluid up into the reservoir.
Remove the silver bolt that goes through a hole in each pad.
Remove the rear caliper bolt (its a floating caliper).
Rotate the rear of the caliper up and you should be able to remove the pads.
I did not read this in any manual but it seems rather straightforward.
Done a few hundred brake jobs.

regards
Badger
Brother .. thank you very much for your quick reply ... Brother is there any tutorial floating around or could you one make one with a pic of rear disk ?? It would be great since am a newbie !

and also where do i find the rear caliper bolt ?




I have included three photos to make your work easier .. Can you tell me which is the rear caliper bolt in this three snaps ?
Thank you very much !
 

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I wish I had my bike here at my shop so I can see. I know it's fairly simple. The side that has the accordian looking rubber boot should have a bolt inside tward the front. If so pull that out "usually an allen bolt" and the caliper should pivot upwards twards the back of the bike. Pull the pin that holds the pads in place and pull them out. I'll have my bike back next week so I could know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wish I had my bike here at my shop so I can see. I know it's fairly simple. The side that has the accordian looking rubber boot should have a bolt inside tward the front. If so pull that out "usually an allen bolt" and the caliper should pivot upwards twards the back of the bike. Pull the pin that holds the pads in place and pull them out. I'll have my bike back next week so I could know for sure.
Brother are you sure that under the rubber boot there is an Allen bolt..or...Is it a guess??? Can someone verify?
 

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Yours is not the same as mine. The pads on mine are held in by a pin with screw threads. Yours a held in by a pin with a spring clip. In the photo I have attached the rear caliper bolt is in the center of the picture.

If you remove the spring clip, you should be able to slide the pin out of your caliper. The pin is the one that goes through the holes in the brake pads and holds them in place.

Once you get the spring clip and pin out, use something to push the pads away from the brake rotor to compress the piston on the caliper so you will have enough room to get new pads in (more pad material needs more room). Do not pry on the rotor itself, put something between the pads and pry them apart to compress the piston in the caliper.

Once you have done this then remove the rear caliper bolt (it's in the center of my picture). It's a 12 MM head bolt. When you get it out then you can pivot the caliper on the front bolt (leave it in place) and remove the pads. Reverse to reassemble.

regards
Badger
 

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This is one of those things, if you have to ask how then you shouldn't be working on the bike.
 

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This is one of those things, if you have to ask how then you shouldn't be working on the bike.
I don't agree. A service manual and the desire to learn should be sufficient.

However, you do need to read first, and to be patient and careful while you do the work.
 

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I don't agree. A service manual and the desire to learn should be sufficient.

However, you do need to read first, and to be patient and careful while you do the work.
Ya, and then I'm the one at the shop that gets too attempt to fix what you screwed up. Ends up costing you more money and gives me a migraine.
 

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I don't agree. A service manual and the desire to learn should be sufficient.

However, you do need to read first, and to be patient and careful while you do the work.
I completely agree.
This country would have gotten no where if we had the other attitude.
 

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Look I'm not trying to tell people they shouldn't DIY, but not everyone is cut out for it. I'm not saying the OP isn't capable or even that he's asking a dumb question. But I am saying that this is obviously not his strong point and unless he has someone close to him that's experienced and can help him if things go wrong, he probably shouldn't touch it or it may just come back to bite him and cost twice as much.

Not happy with your job....
And no, I hate my job....
 
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