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Hey Guys,
I am new to the forum first of all, and so far everyone has been awesome. I have a question that seems to bring a wide array of answers. How do you reset your ECU? Everyone is saying that is a must do after installing exhaust and air filter. So, how do you reset the ECU?



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The best way is to go to Honda and have them do it with their factory scan tool. It is a simple tap of the screen with that tool and then you know for sure it has been reset. You can also try unhooking the battery. There is also a complicated way that involved several connectors on the bike to be disconnected and reconnected while doing different things with the key.
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http://www.cbr250.net/forum/cbr250-performance/1073-aftermarket-pipe-make-sure-do.html
 

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The whole process takes about 15 mins which includes 10 mins of waiting while the battery and ECU is disconnected. The two connectors you need to get to are easy enough to get to and the only "tool" I used was a paperclip. There is a youtube video if you search "resetting ECU Honda cbr250r". GOOD LUCK!
 

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When does the ECU have to be reset?

What if you only install a slip-on - is there a sensor in the exhaust? No sensor, no reset?

I'm fairly sure there's none in the exhaust of my CRF250M.

Then again, if it is an easy procedure, why not do it.

Has anybody done it? And did it make a difference?
 

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The whole process takes about 15 mins which includes 10 mins of waiting while the battery and ECU is disconnected. The two connectors you need to get to are easy enough to get to and the only "tool" I used was a paperclip. There is a youtube video if you search "resetting ECU Honda cbr250r". GOOD LUCK!
Why do they have to be disconnected for ten minutes?

I don't know much about electrics but either electricity flows or it don't.

Sorry about all these questions but I like to be sure about what I'm doing.

:)
 

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Yep, only slip-ons shouldn't make too much of a difference as long as the air filter stays stock.

Btw, this thread should maybe joined with "aftermarket pipe, make sure ...."

or this thread should be closed - go to the above link posted by sendler in post #3. :)
 

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Unhooking the battery does reset the ECU. Because last time I had it disconnected for a few hours, when I went to go start it up the bike started at a high RPM (Like 6k) then lowered itself back to normal idle. I could tell the ECU was readjusting from how it idled different after reconnecting it.
 

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Unhooking the battery does reset the ECU. Because last time I had it disconnected for a few hours, when I went to go start it up the bike started at a high RPM (Like 6k) then lowered itself back to normal idle. I could tell the ECU was readjusting from how it idled different after reconnecting it.
If the ECU checks all the sensors after the battery being disconnected for some time I wonder why the guy in the 3 videos is bridging the individual sensors.
 

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This came from a Malaysia webblog, think it was the same youtube guy who posted it. don't remember i saved it i a text file thinking blogsa get taking down all the time. And i don't take credit for this, it was thanks to another guy i have this.

HOW TO RESET AN ECU UNIT ON CBR250R

Follow step below:

1) remove ecu by removing right side fairing.

2) unplug ecu and wait 5 minutes.

3) plug ecu back in and turn engine on for 5 minutes.
rev engine to redline a few times

4) locate wire loom running to tail light
with a piece of wire jump the connection between the blue and green wires

5) with the wires still jumped turn on the ignition.
wait 5 seconds then remove the wire you used to jump the connection

6) your check engine light should now be on (solid), turn ignition off

7) locate and remove coolant sensor. (located above engine under the seat)

8) jump the blue/yellow and green/white wire, with the wires still jumped
turn the ignition on for 10 seconds. the check engine light should now be flashing

9) with the ignition still on plug the coolant sensor back in, turn ignition off

10) turn ignition back on and start engine.
check engine light should come on then go off as it normally does.
rev engine to red line a few times.

11) turn engine off.the ecu is now reset.

(for the best result, reset your ECU before you start a long journey on the highway.)
 

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^ That seems to be the proper procedure even though I don't understand it. :)

My question is: when is it necessary to do all that? After installing a slip-on? a complete exhaust system? an air filter? ECU? all of the above?
 

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^ That seems to be the proper procedure even though I don't understand it. :)

My question is: when is it necessary to do all that? After installing a slip-on? a complete exhaust system? an air filter? ECU? all of the above?
Most slip on exhaust don't need it and i believe if they do they will state it. Full exhaust i would just to be safe, air filters no. Any heavy mods then i would say yes. Even sometimes if your about to go cross country and normally you ride in the city i would say yes. The way i like to think of it is as a windows computer, after many years of usage it has all your programs and setup to your usage. When you reset its like restarting with a fresh windows os and all you programs and preferences are gone. And you have to put the time in for setting it up again. So its best used sparingly.....


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I did the whole bridging thing on mine, was bored. Didn't notice much of a difference. With my slip on though I do notice sometimes some slight pops downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Nothing too bad though or worrying about a fuel controller e.t.c.

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Probably just the air injection system if you didn't bypass it since there's no catalyst in the muffler anymore.
How do you mean "bypass it"? All I did was unbolt stock exhaust, and put slip-on on. If I bypass the air injection, will it cause any issues?
 

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No need to bypass it, but some people feel better about it. It's there to burn unburned fuel in the exhaust before it reaches and ruins the catalyst. Since you deleted the cat by replacing the muffler, the air injection system is neither helpful nor harmful. If you haven't tinkered with it, just leave it alone. It just injects air into the exhaust; so that, in conjunction with reduced back pressure, will cause the harmless popping you hear when downshifting.
 
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