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Discussion Starter #1
So I talked to my shop guy who is at the store that sold me my CBR250RA.
He had just completed the first maintenance on the bike after 1000 km.
At first he didn't even want to check the valve clearance but I insisted that it was in the manual and so he says he did.
He said that everything was within spec and that if he would've had to shim them, it would have been a 5 hour charge since they would have to remove the cam head.
I then told him that everywhere I read said that this bike did not need this because according to Honda you don't need to remove the cam head to shim the valves. But he insisted it was in the service manual that it is a ''shim under bucket'' system and they would've had to remove the cam.

Now I am not a mechanic, this is my first bike and I really can't figure out most of what all this means. But I usually end up trusting the mechanic from the shop that sells all these bikes.
I also like reading a lot about my bike on this forum and others and I know a lot of you guys have expertise on the subject and lots of motorcycling experience.
So is this tech just telling me whatever he wants me to believe ? Or is he right and the service manual is actually telling him the right method ?
He also told me he put in an after market oil filter made by the same company that supplies yamaha and honda filters (Hiflo) but that this one is $6 instead of $27 since he orders them independantly and not through Honda. But that it is basically the same filter.
I would like to know if I really would have to pay them for 5 hours of work if they actually needed to shim the valves. If only I could take a look at the service manual...
Also whenever I tell these guys that I've read differently on internet forums, I pretty much get scoffed at.
Good times.
 

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I own a Service Manual (helminc.com - $71.00 US). I looked up your question...
"pg 3-12 Adjustment Note - The valve clearances can be adjusted without removing the camshafts."

You do have to remove the the cyclinder head cover and the bolt that holds the rocker arm shaft and slide it out of the way to remove the shims.

There is a thread on this forum about checking valve clearance at the first service and it seems that there are shops that assume that it is not required. These guys are used to the fact that in the past small Honda engines didn't rquire it. This is a completely new engine for Honda - things are different. As long as the shop is willing to read and follow the Honda service instructions - no problem.
 

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I bought a gasket and filer OEM honda from hondapartsnation.com and it only cost me under $7 for both (not including shipping) so i think your dealer is full of ****.
 

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Which shop is that? I'm getting the honda OEM oil filter from drover's in Brandon and they said it's about $9. And I thought that was already high seeing the US price.

Our engine is definitely not shim under bucket. Those ones don't need valve checks for 20,000 to 40,000km!
 

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Your shop guy is both lazy and full of ****. I'd send a letter off to Honda CA, just to cover the bike in case something goes bad and also so they know about the antics at this dealership. I'd also start looking for another Honda shop with someone who either already knows about the new CBR250R or is willing to learn.

 

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Having adjusted the valve clearance, I can confirm that the system is a round pill shaped shim that fits into the top of the spring retainer of the valve. It can be accessed by pulling the rocker arm pivot rod out until the rocker arm can be slipped back away from the valve ends to expose the shims. The camshafts do not need to be removed. The shims can be removed and installed with a 'magnet on a stick' or a suitably magnetized iron rod. Be Very Very (Very) careful not to drop the shim somewhere expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies.
This shop is Winnipeg Sport & Leisure. They deal Yamahas and Hondas but their big money maker is selling boats.
Everytime I call it's like I'm bothering them too, they seem to be sooo busy all the time in the service department.
Anyways, when it comes to warranty , I have all the work listed on my receipt which clearly indicates that they checked the valve clearance.
I might try going to Steinbach at Bill's for the next maintenance at least.
 

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Valve Clearance Wrong?

Just got the Shop Manual. I think the valve clearance has to be wrong. My old Honda CB550 is 0.002" Intake and 0.003" Exhaust.

How can a modern water cooled CBR250R require 0.006" Intake and 0.011" Exhaust?
 

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Having adjusted the valve clearance, I can confirm that the system is a round pill shaped shim that fits into the top of the spring retainer of the valve. It can be accessed by pulling the rocker arm pivot rod out until the rocker arm can be slipped back away from the valve ends to expose the shims. The camshafts do not need to be removed. The shims can be removed and installed with a 'magnet on a stick' or a suitably magnetized iron rod. Be Very Very (Very) careful not to drop the shim somewhere expensive.
I also measured my own valves and had to replace both of the exhaust valve shims from 185s to 180s. My crappy dealer only had a few sizes so they ordered aftermarket shims at $6 apiece (pre-paid of course, even though I gave the dealer my old ones, gratis). Anyway, the cam follower shafts slid out as advertized and it was easy measuring and removing the existing shims on the valves that were out of spec. Getting them back in, on the other hand, was another matter! Required a trip to Advance Auto for a mechanic’s mirror. The inside of the motor is built like a Swiss watch. Naturally I just had to drop one of the shims in the engine! Took me over two hours to locate it, after fully removing the fuel tank (the quick release fuel lines are not quick to release, BTW) and misc. electrical gear and rubber boots, etc. Fortunately for me, the shim slipped behind one of the cam followers and I “found” it using a strong magnet between long surgical style tweezer pinchers. I think I lost 10 lbs sweating in frustration trying to fish out the darned thing. Buttoned it all back up, runs fine with no leaks! Rewarded myself with a tall one and thanked Heaven I would not have to do this again for another 16k miles.
 

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I also measured my own valves and had to replace both of the exhaust valve shims from 185s to 180s. My crappy dealer only had a few sizes so they ordered aftermarket shims at $6 apiece (pre-paid of course, even though I gave the dealer my old ones, gratis). Anyway, the cam follower shafts slid out as advertized and it was easy measuring and removing the existing shims on the valves that were out of spec. Getting them back in, on the other hand, was another matter! Required a trip to Advance Auto for a mechanic’s mirror. The inside of the motor is built like a Swiss watch. Naturally I just had to drop one of the shims in the engine! Took me over two hours to locate it, after fully removing the fuel tank (the quick release fuel lines are not quick to release, BTW) and misc. electrical gear and rubber boots, etc. Fortunately for me, the shim slipped behind one of the cam followers and I “found” it using a strong magnet between long surgical style tweezer pinchers. I think I lost 10 lbs sweating in frustration trying to fish out the darned thing. Buttoned it all back up, runs fine with no leaks! Rewarded myself with a tall one and thanked Heaven I would not have to do this again for another 16k miles.
When you button it all up, do you need to replace the seal for the cylinder head cover? The service manual says to use a new gasket and put some sealant.
 

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Thanks for describing the shim change procedure. Maybe I'll try changing them out myself @ 16,000 miles. I had a feeling that it'd be easier if the tank were completely removed AND all the blocking electrical stuff were unhooked and moved out of the way.

When I sealed mine back up I reused the rubber gasket for the cylinder head. I did find that I had to apply sealant around the entire gasket so that it would stay on the head cover when putting the cover back on. (the whole job would have been easier, including messing around with the head cover gasket, if I had removed the tank and all the stuff that's sitting over the cylinder)..
 

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Can anybody tell me what the recommended clearance is for both intake and exhaust valves (please specify metric or not!) and what the tolerance is for both?

I plan on doing a valve check this weekend. (I don't normally let mouth breathing wrench monkey's near my stuff so I do it myself).
 

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spec

Can anybody tell me what the recommended clearance is for both intake and exhaust valves (please specify metric or not!) and what the tolerance is for both?

I plan on doing a valve check this weekend. (I don't normally let mouth breathing wrench monkey's near my stuff so I do it myself).
.006 inches intake, .011 inches exhaust. You can sneak the valve cover out the front by unhooking the rubber radiator hangers. No need to remove the tank. If you have to adjust, you will need the side fairings off.
 

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.006 inches intake, .011 inches exhaust. You can sneak the valve cover out the front by unhooking the rubber radiator hangers. No need to remove the tank. If you have to adjust, you will need the side fairings off.
Thanks Sendler. What is the tolerance to be considered outside of spec? .003 inches?
 

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shim selection

Thanks Sendler. What is the tolerance to be considered outside of spec? .003 inches?
I think the limit is specified as .002" inches but it would mainly depend on what increments the shims are available in. If they are only available every .005" then the limit will be .0025". Mine were .006, .006, .010, .009, so I just left them alone. That was at 700 miles. I now have 3600 miles so should think about checking them again since I left them tight last time.
 
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