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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had a thread two days ago, bike was stalling.
Issue resolved, removed personal details, just leaving the info to help others.

Bought my cbr250 no issues, 6 months later it would casually stall once in a blue moon after taking the clutch in/dropping the revs to idle, would restart fine.

Over time it got more frequent, did Darwin to Adelaide 3 times, on the highway it became so frequent, 100% of the time it would start first touch. Run, I accelerate to 120-150kmh. Any downshift or clutch in where the revs went to idle the bike died, had more and more difficulty turning it back on over time.

Bike started having major issues starting and staying running without giving it some throttle.

The issue was a vacuum leak and a faulty fuel pump.

After this, the bike would have trouble starting cold, the revs jumped to like 4 thousand and stuck there for a min before dropping.

The bike would actually start if you gave it throttle when cold and normally when it's was warm, and would idle and run fine after warming up for a min.

ALTHOUGH the original issue I had of it stalling when clutching to decelerate/coming to a stop persisted but to a much lesser extent, it would also backfire when starting. It would be passable for a farm bike or something at this stage.

I took it back to the mechanic, I didn't see the work order specially because he did the work complimentary for accidently giving me it back with the same issue+ the revs jumping and sticking+backfiring.

The dude told me the exhaust valve needed adjusting, said it was unusual because it usually causes different symptoms when it's not working.

Also said the valve was very worn? Don't know.

Right now the bike just needs the slightest throttle when first starting, starts cold fine.

Had it for two days now, took it to a heavy traffic light area, stopping, starting, taking the clutch in. (My fault) I stalled at some lights trying to filter when they changed, bike started up with a single touch like f** new.


Pretty satisfied now tbh, love my repsol. hope this can help someone else save being mucked around.
 

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Do you have legal recourse? It’s obviously not repaired. Is stalling part of work order?

With EFI systems, stalling is typically caused by erroneous sensor signals that tells ECU about environmental conditions of engine:
  • air temp
  • coolant temp
  • throttle position
  • manifold pressure
  • crankshaft speed
  • crankshaft position
One of most common issue that throws off sensors is vacuum leaks. Anywhere rubber boots and hoses on intake fastened by clamps can have leak when hastily assembled. Official service manual has tests for all of these and adjustment procedures for ones that can be adjusted like TPS. It’s not difficult to do, I suggest you get manual and go through test and adjustment procedures.

it’s hard lesson many riders go through. Dealers and shops are scum and they typically have less knowledge and skill than you! Meatheat school dropouts who can’t even add 2+2. That’s why many, many riders do their own work.
 

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Not 100% sure but I was explicit when I dropped it off 'Don't do the service or tyres unless you can fix the stalling'

They said yeah we can do that.

Recorded the convo we had this afternoon, I might be able to upload it.. he basically said he has no idea. I asked about vacuum leaks and they said they check them all

When they rang for the quote they said it seems to be X problem it's going to cost $300 then we will do the tyres and service.
During that call I said yeah the bike is probably a write off but just see if you can get it working as normal.


I just started it up in the drive way, it died three times in a row.
Starting to think they didn't even test ride it to be honest, but I will contact consumer affairs which is the legal recourse for Aus
Flipping hell though, 10 days in the shop plus three weeks wait, bugger all communication.

I think I do have a case to regain the cost of the tyres and service, because I said not to.

The other half of the cost I don't think I can claim because I asked them to have a look.
 

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Should I sell it or scrap the bike?

I JUST got a job that's 25 mins away I need some transport and it's not helping I'm $1200 down if I wanted another bike or car for work...
 

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I'm going to assume that you're the op, but using a different user name now.

It has to be something simple. I can't remember if the cbr uses an idle air control valve or if the idle speed is controlled by adjustment of the throttle plate, but I'd be looking at that to start with. When it does idle, what rpm does the engine run at?

They are a pretty simple and very reliable bike, but if you're not mechanically minded or haven't got any reliable place you can take it to apart from where you've already taken it, there's not a lot we can do to help you out...

Where are you located in aus, someone may be able to suggest another plate you can take it.
 

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You absolutely need to find a new shop to work on your cycle.

Best is to watch the Service Writer make notes on the work order if you have specific issues and restrictions like you did. That way it's in writing.

What did they do exactly? They sound incompetent.

Don't junk it. Most likely it's not anything major. If you find a competent shop they should be able to get it working properly.

Some things you could do would be to completely drain the gas tank and refill with fresh gas and a strong fuel system cleaner. Check the condition of the air filter. Replace the spark plug. Then see how it runs. Could be something simple like old/bad gas or a partially plugged injector.
 

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Bods -
When I start it up the idle sits on 2,000 RPM
after about three seconds it goes down to 1800 RPM
couple seconds 1500 RPM
Eventually to the point the bike stalls

I'm in Adelaide, I have one friend from before fuel injector's and electronics who's great with bikes but he's never worked on anything like a modern bike.

He thinks I should look at the cam chain adjustor when I told him it stalls at lights

I'm reading online and this issue sounded similar and they suggested the fuel pump?



JKV -
The work order
1 hour Diagnose engine cutting out
3 hours remove throttle body, clean throttle body, fuel injector, flow & test injector, inspect surrounding parts, refit all parts.

Notes- Bike needs further investigating @ may need parts replaced to stop erratic idle.
(In person the real note was we have no idea go get a bike from the wreckers and let's throw some random parts at it)
 

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CBR600F4 is cabureted, nothing close to CBR250R’s EFI. Problem in that case is dirty carbs that needs thorough cleaning with ultrasonic soak and micro soda-blasting.

It most likely is something very simple that’s wrong. A tiny adjustment here and there (TPS, idle-speed screw, etc). Or some hose not plugged in properly. Competent shop can find and fix in no time at all (1-2 hrs max). You can use this as evidence to file complaint about 1st shop.
 

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If it is a CBR250R, then I would guess it is the fuel pump. Either the tank has debris in it and the filter/screen is restricted, or the pump quit. Based on more than a few threads recently, it does seem that the pumps do fail.

It also seems that buying just any aftermarket pump is not a good idea, as some do not provide adequate fuel pressure.

Search threads with info on fuel pumps for more answers. There is one with a recommendation for a higher quality pump that the owner purchased after having problems with another brand of aftermarket pump. Also check the cost of a pump from Honda. The difference may not be that much.
 

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Also measure power going to pump continuously. Dropouts in power could point to fuel-pump relay.

Inspect fuel-filter.

Try banging tank near bottom with fist.
 

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A dragging clutch will stall the bike in the way you describe. Quick thing to check is the clutch adjustment. If you flick it into neutral rather than hold the clutch in does it still stall? If it doesn't stall in neutral then look up in the hand book how to adjust the clutch. Is the bike hard to start ... because fuel, spark etc problems would be there too.
 

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Had. A thread two days ago, bike was stalling.

Asked for a fix, quoted $900 for service tyres and whatever was the issue. told them if it's not going to be alright then we can look at the tyres and service don't just go ahead and do all of them so I'm spending all this cash on a write off.

Turns out dude I live with was frustrated they took 5 weeks or so in total so he went in and told them to hurry up so they smashed out all three without me knowing. They put a rush on it or whatever


Got the bike back today, costed $1180.

Taking it home it stalled about 7 times.
Took it back around the mechanic said yeah let it warm up and get some fuel in it....

Reeved it a fair bit still has two bars of fuel.


I'm doing about 50km, second or third gear, pull the clutch in say at the traffic lights.
Bike will cut out. They did 'as much as we could without replacing parts'

I never asked them not to replace parts

It's a lot easier to start up again and it is better but I'm scared of getting into an accident because it's so frequent.

They told me to look at the wreckers to get a new throttle body and they have no idea on what the issue is

Ideas?

I'm down 1180 without working transport what should I be doing? I just got a job and I need transport but I'm a bit screwed now I don't want to be out on the highway stressing about the engine. Someone will clean me up if it doesn't start again
[
Had. A thread two days ago, bike was stalling.

Asked for a fix, quoted $900 for service tyres and whatever was the issue. told them if it's not going to be alright then we can look at the tyres and service don't just go ahead and do all of them so I'm spending all this cash on a write off.

Turns out dude I live with was frustrated they took 5 weeks or so in total so he went in and told them to hurry up so they smashed out all three without me knowing. They put a rush on it or whatever


Got the bike back today, costed $1180.

Taking it home it stalled about 7 times.
Took it back around the mechanic said yeah let it warm up and get some fuel in it....

Reeved it a fair bit still has two bars of fuel.


I'm doing about 50km, second or third gear, pull the clutch in say at the traffic lights.
Bike will cut out. They did 'as much as we could without replacing parts'

I never asked them not to replace parts

It's a lot easier to start up again and it is better but I'm scared of getting into an accident because it's so frequent.

They told me to look at the wreckers to get a new throttle body and they have no idea on what the issue is

Ideas?

I'm down 1180 without working transport what should I be doing? I just got a job and I need transport but I'm a bit screwed now I don't want to be out on the highway stressing about the engine. Someone will clean me up if it doesn't start again
Check and spray all contacts with wd40 or wurth contact spray
Check the rubber boots on the spark plugs cap and replace if spoilt
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's appointment is on the 5th of November

If it is the TPS mucking up how long do you guys think it will take to fix?

I've been bussing it to work for about a month now and it kills about 17 hours a week :/
 

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Shouldn't take any more than 15-30 minutes to test and adjust TPS. Heck, just measuring, they can rule it out in 5-minutes if it's adjusted properly.

Very likely vacuum-leaks, which is most common issue with EFI bikes. Or fuel-system issue of some sort. Dying pump, clogged lines, filters, etc.

Competent shop should be able to fix it in 2-hrs. How do you know this new place you found is any good?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah but I'm just confused the last mechanic had it two weeks and said random stuff like 'faulty TPS' and said he checked the vaccum leaks

But he also said it was ok on the test ride which is bs
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dang idk what even to tell the next mechanic but I photocopied the receipt to show him
 

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Don’t show receipt to next mechanic. If that was me, i’d be tempted to give you good fleecing as well. Just tell him symptoms and behaviors:
  • difficult starting
  • stumbling and variable idle
  • randomly stalls


    don’t say anything about what could be wrong or what to check. That might make them look in wrong place for too long.
 
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