[eluo]

Just want to share some photos that I took while replacing the Stator. These photos / comments may help for those that run into the same issue.

The stator is located inside the left crankcase with the wire going up.
Tip: Pull back the rubber sleeve to review the two connectors.

Here is my original stator. >20k miles on it. Looks fine but not getting the enough voltage when testing it with a multimeter.

New one from ebay. Cost $50 USD and comes with replacement gasket. It came with 3 plastic tie holding down a portion of the wire. I wasn't sure if it was suppose stay on but I cut them out.

Here is the new stater assembled to the crankcase cover. The rubber grommet needs sealant. I used what I have on hand.
Removing the old gasket from the crankcase cover was a big pain. I used a razor blade very carefully and slowly scrapped away the old gasket. This took the most time. It was stuck on the cover and not on the engine which made it more convenient as I can sit down comfortably at a table to scrape off the old gasket.

Reassembly. There are 9 bolts. I hand tighten every 4th bolt going clockwise several times around. No torque specification was provided as per other discussion thread.

Reassembled. Remember connect the cables and pull the rubber sleeve back down to cover the connector.

I use a heavy duty A ladder to keep the bike up and a bubble level stuck to the disk brake to ensure the bike is leveled before adding oil back in.

 

[Cortes]

Hey, thank you for taking the time to post this - looks like you did a really good job. Can I ask what is a symptom of stator failure? Do they just go? or do they go gradually? In any event - thanks again

 

[eluo]

Hey, thank you for taking the time to post this - looks like you did a really good job. Can I ask what is a symptom of stator failure? Do they just go? or do they go gradually? In any event - thanks again

It believe that it was gradual for me. I replaced my battery thinking that it was bad just before the past winter; on occasions, I needed to push start my CBR shortly after turning it off. I kept the new battery on a trickle charge when not riding. This may have masked the issue longer and all seemed was well until my recent ride to work. That morning, it was cold and raining, I had my heated grips on high. In mid ride, on the highway, the ABS light started flashing. I tested my breaks and it seems fine so I ignored it. Then the engine shut off within minutes of ABS light flashing. I was able to costed to the nearby exit and safely parked the bike.

 

[Tamir]

Hi.
Thanks for sharing, beauty of tips
Thanks for the idea with the ladder and the great photos.

Two comments:
1. The loops of the rider seat are not that strong.
2. I have already had to fill oil only with the rear stand. The rear stand create an elevation to the rear wheel, which causes the whole engine to be inclined forward. That's creating a slope. That slope causes an error in the oil level check. So I had to take out the excess oil.
From now on, if I want to measure oil level I use the two stands: front and rear together.

 

[eluo]

Hi.
Thanks for sharing, beauty of tips
Thanks for the idea with the ladder and the great photos.

Two comments:
1. The loops of the rider seat are not that strong.
2. I have already had to fill oil only with the rear stand. The rear stand create an elevation to the rear wheel, which causes the whole engine to be inclined forward. That's creating a slope. That slope causes an error in the oil level check. So I had to take out the excess oil.
From now on, if I want to measure oil level I use the two stands: front and rear together.

CBR 250 is not that heavy. The seat loop have not bent or deformed in anyway since I started using this method.
As for sloping forward, I'm not too concern. Any slope is minor. Tilting left / right will affect the oil reading more than the slope.

 

[Tamir]

Tilting left / right will affect the oil reading more than the slope.

Yes, maybe in your case it's negligible, because you do not raise the rear wheel high in the air, but in the measurement I made the slope caused me an excess oil of about 120 ml (above the maximum line). Maybe later on I'll video it to clarify this point.
Anyway thanks for your advice

 

[Big Cahuna]

I use a heavy duty A ladder to keep the bike up and a bubble level stuck to the disk brake to ensure the bike is leveled before adding oil back in.
View attachment 45429

Never considered using the ladder trick. I think I'm going to try this method for installing some lowering links. I always wondered about the Stator, are these bathed in oil inside the case? And if so, what purpose does it serve? I just replaced a regulator which is just plug 'n play. Glad it wasn't the stator. That seems like a few hours work.

 

[Tamir]

I always wondered about the Stator, are these bathed in oil inside the case? And if so, what purpose does it serve?

The oil functions as a coolant.

I always wondered about the Stator

There is no need to "worry" about stator repair at all. The only "scary" problem is the price of the original part, that is about 150USD (and should be added about 25USD for shipping?) - LINK to PARTZILLA.
Like our friend (thread opener), and like many others, I bought a non-original part for 76USD (Including Shipping) - LINK to aliexpress.com

Don't wonder. Start with a test, the basic test is very simple. At idle RPM the DC voltage that should be measured on the battery terminals is more then 13.2 volts . If the voltage is lower then 13.2(DC) then continue the tested on the stator terminals also at idle RPM, a voltage of 17 volts AC should be measured. On each of the three phases separately (17VAC x 3)

That seems like a few hours work.

I spent most of the time, a few weeks, waiting for the part, of course you can add a 40USD fee and get the part within a few days.
YES the work itself can take several hours, with most of the time being cleaning the paper gasket residue from the lid case. It also took me a while to make some adjustments to the electrical wires (because I bought a non-original part, and I wanted it to sit nicely in place like OEM part, not mandatory, but I invested my time to do it properly).

 

[RodgerMillan]

The oil functions as a coolant.

There is no need to "worry" about stator repair at all. The only "scary" problem is the price of the original part, that is about 150USD (and should be added about 25USD for shipping?) - LINK to PARTZILLA.
Like our friend (thread opener), and like many others, I bought a non-original part for 76USD (Including Shipping) - LINK to aliexpress.com
View attachment 45431
Don't wonder. Start with a test, the basic test is very simple. At idle RPM the DC voltage that should be measured on the battery terminals is more then 13.2 volts . If the voltage is lower then 13.2(DC) then continue the tested on the stator terminals also at idle RPM, a voltage of 17 volts AC should be measured. On each of the three phases separately (17VAC x 3)

I spent most of the time, a few weeks, waiting for the part, of course you can add a 40USD fee and get the part within a few days.
YES the work itself can take several hours, with most of the time being cleaning the paper gasket residue from the lid case. It also took me a while to make some adjustments to the electrical wires (because I bought a non-original part, and I wanted it to sit nicely in place like OEM part, not mandatory, but I invested my time to do it properly).

Good option but can you get it at a more cheap rate?

 

[Tamir]

Good option but can you get it at a more cheap rate?

Sorry, I don't know, what I found at that time, and which I understand was in a good price, is the stator from AliExpress for 76 USD (including shipping fees).

 

[RodgerMillan]

Sorry, I don't know, what I found at that time, and which I understand was in a good price, is the stator from AliExpress for 76 USD (including shipping fees).

$76 is adorable