Stripped Fairing Screw

10348 Views 22 Replies 15 Participants Last post by OzHonda, May 27, 2014

HoPMiX

Discussion Starter · Sep 21, 2011

Posted this in another topic so sorry for double post.
Went to install Yoshi sliders last night and started right side and worked my way around removing every Allen screw. Piece of Cake until the last one. Left side fairing. Stuck the allen in and it was too small. So i went up a size and it was too big, Started looking closely and I guess its stripped. I inspected again this morning and it doesn't look stripped at all. Maybe defective screw? I tried 3/16 and 5mm allen. Both just turn freely in there. Scrwe looks a bit torqued to the side like it was never threaded correctly. Any suggestions on how to remove the screw? That sucker is in there.

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

Nortley

· #2 · Sep 21, 2011

Try tapping in a torx bit or driver (they're cheap), one that's just too big to drop in the hole. You might need to grind the tip a little to get the right fit. The screw should turn out now, they aren't super tight. Now throw that old screw as far as you can.

HoPMiX

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 21, 2011

what one of my mountain bike buddies suggested as well. Sounds like a plan. thanks for advice.

Brian

· #4 · Sep 21, 2011

I hope it is not cross threaded, if it is from the factory you may want to warranty it.
If the wrench, torx does not work;
I would get a drill the same size or one size over the screw diameter. Then carefully drill the head until it just comes off. Remove the fairing. then if the screw is not cross threaded it should unscrew, otherwise put a good sharp pair of vice grips on there really tight and break it loose.

Macca

· #5 · Sep 21, 2011

Brian said:
I hope it is not cross threaded, if it is from the factory you may want to warranty it.
If the wrench, torx does not work;
I would get a drill the same size or one size over the screw diameter. Then carefully drill the head until it just comes off. Remove the fairing. then if the screw is not cross threaded it should unscrew, otherwise put a good sharp pair of vice grips on there really tight and break it loose.

I would be tempted to try a larger drill bit in reverse with a heap of pressure, might grab.

I did the same thing last week with one of my coloured aluminum bolts, It was soft and I just hammered the next size up allen key in.

Metalstorm

· #6 · Sep 21, 2011

A reverse direction drill bit or an EZ out is what I'd try first.

I think there might be a problem at the hardware manufacturing plant.
I had an oil filter cover bolt shear on me at 100 inch pounds of torque.
108 inch pounds = the 9 foot pounds stated in the owner's manual.

I was lucky in that it held on by a thread, just enough for me to be able to reverse it out before it became a two piece bolt.

pgkool

· #7 · Sep 22, 2011

Here is exactly what you need.

I would resist drilling the head until last resort.

Brian

· #8 · Sep 22, 2011

the allen button heads have a very shallow socket, on a good one I dot even use a balldriver.
I am all for left hand drills, I can get them and use them for broken bolts. A lot of people I know wouldnt know where to get one, or wouldnt buy one. many times once you get the head off, the screw backs right out. but He said it looked crooked. if it is cross threaded,you will need something to grab with vice grips.
I would always use a drill diameter smaller than the tap drill size for left hand drilling. You dont want to add damage to the nut side.

goldbergm6

· #9 · May 24, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

yo holy ********************.. my screws are on there SUPER TIGHT AS WELL!!

WHAT THE ******************** HONDA....

why do you use a MACHINE to put 50lbs of torque on a fairing hahahahha

i stripped mine as welll

Reactions: 1

goldbergm6

· #10 · May 24, 2014 (Edited by Moderator)

stripped fairing screw...

So i was trying to take off my fairings so i can do my first service and check the valve clearances... welll... i couldn't get passed taking off the first fairing...

The bolt underneath and closest to the radiator is the one i'm having problems with... BOTH sides are on like super tight and it's a Hex/allen key screw... Idk why it's on so tight, but i used a pair of pliers for torque and it STILL didn't come.. I was pulling so hard, that it STRIPPED IT!!

how do you people get this fairing off?!

commandodave

· #11 · May 25, 2014

HoPMiX said:
Posted this in another topic so sorry for double post.
Went to install Yoshi sliders last night and started right side and worked my way around removing every Allen screw. Piece of Cake until the last one. Left side fairing. Stuck the allen in and it was too small. So i went up a size and it was too big, Started looking closely and I guess its stripped. I inspected again this morning and it doesn't look stripped at all. Maybe defective screw? I tried 3/16 and 5mm allen. Both just turn freely in there. Scrwe looks a bit torqued to the side like it was never threaded correctly. Any suggestions on how to remove the screw? That sucker is in there.

So why did you not use the 6mm Allen that is the only fracking tool that comes in the USA tool kit?

5005

· #12 · May 25, 2014 (Edited)

I cant get the D-A-M-N Allen skew out on the lower black cowl. It the one on the brake side of the bike. I try every ******************** thing from drilling, ******************** drill wont even go though the skew. I have a 18 v drill, is that not strong enough?

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pooder7

· #13 · May 25, 2014

commandodave said:
So why did you not use the 6mm Allen that is the only fracking tool that comes in the USA tool kit?

HA!

The only fracking tool that comes in the USA tool kit is a FIVE mm Allen!

(Yeah; it wasn't really necessary to point that out ;^)

kadookoo

· #14 · May 26, 2014

Lefty loosey righty tighty?

Reactions: 1

commandodave

· #15 · May 26, 2014

Oops! I better not throw away the factory tool kit kit and replace it with one from my old Aprilia.

MotoMike

· #16 · May 27, 2014

2

To add injury to insult, the hex key which Honda supplied in the so called "tool kit" has a pretty poor fit in the fairing screws... and on top of that, the fairing screws on the CBR250R came out of the factory no less than 'gorilla tight'. I recommend tossing the Honda supplied hex key in the trash and using a properly fitting, quality hex key from Bondhus, or Dewalt...

.

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OzHonda

· #17 · May 27, 2014

MotoMike said:
and on top of that, the fairing screws on the CBR250R came out of the factory no less than 'gorilla tight'.

I had the opposite scenario. Used an 8mm spanner around the hex key as leverage / breaker bar. It was like they were loctited and welded in.

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Aufitt

· #18 · May 27, 2014

Quality 5mm allen key or socket head.

Don't use ******************** tools on motorcycles.

MotoMike

· #19 · May 27, 2014

Juzman said:
I had the opposite scenario. Used an 8mm spanner around the hex key as leverage / breaker bar. It was like they were loctited and welded in.

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... "no less than gorilla tight" means really, really tight. As if gorillas were actually working the assembly line. Big, strong gorillas.

But my point was that the hex key that came with the bike fits the screws poorly, which when added to the fact that the fairing screws are really tight, can make for a mess.

Reactions: 1

Arrethul

· #20 · May 27, 2014 (Edited)

First time I pulled my fairing bolts I had to use a 1/4" drive with the attachment to hex to get them out. Using a 1/4" drive gave me enough leverage to get in and get them out. The ones that are in the tightest are the bottom front fairing by the front tire. I now put anti-seize on all my fairing bolts so they come out easier when I need to. Half of my fairing bolts were rusted.
EDIT: 1/4" drive I meant as MotoMike corrected me.

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