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I'll agree synthetic may last longer, but I'd rather change mine every 4000km instead of 12,000 so that is a non issue to me.

but one question~
Why do you believe Synthetic is better at keeping contaminants in suspension?
 
I'll agree synthetic may last longer, but I'd rather change mine every 4000km instead of 12,000 so that is a non issue to me.

but one question~
Why do you believe Synthetic is better at keeping contaminants in suspension?
You can change synthetic at 4000km if you want to...

I don't think of synthetic oil in terms of lasting longer, just providing better lubrication and engine protection. I change my synthetic oil when I feel it needs it, and don't stretch my intervals to the max in any of my engines. Oil is way too important to get lazy or cheap-out on IMO.

Top quality synthetics have some advantages over conventional oil, especially when used in engines that only hold a small amount of oil and rev high. The cost difference when you are talking about such small amount isn't enough to worry about when compared to the benefit.

I'll let PolyOlefin answer the second part.


Jay
 
In my car I use Synthetic for 10k miles. Usually Valvoline Synpower. I plan to use syn oil in my 250 and just change it once per year and not worry about a thing.

Never hear of any oil breakdown on any forum in years. Syn oil or dino.
 
Are you planning to go with a 0W-30? Who makes a 0W cycle oil? I'm assuming you are planning on using a cycle oil and not an auto oil - right?
I should clarify what I said; I meant I would look for a 0W-30 or -40 once I'm confident the transmission was broken in. I'm not actually sure if one exists for motorcycles, but I'm eyeing Amsoil's 4-stroke 0W-40 for "powersport applications". It says it's compatible with wet clutches, but I'll have to investigate further.

Perhaps Renewable Lubricants has something suitable. RLI also formulates custom oils, though its prohibitively expensive... group buy, anyone?

I'd like a 0-weight because I plan to do some light winter riding, and I store the bike in an unheated garage... but only if the 0-weight has the right additive formula for a motorcycle engine.

Why do you believe Synthetic is better at keeping contaminants in suspension?
I suppose I was being somewhat misleading. I said this because synthetics (specifically Amsoil, which I use) are better at holding TBN. More/high-quality detergents and antioxidants are better at neutralizing acids and keeping them soluble, which in turn keeps the base oil from breaking down and failing to do its job.
 
from the archives...

I did not reember this detail, but i remember the article from back when Yoshia graced the hood.


'Yoshima started out running Castrol-R (castor-based) oil in his engines, but recently switched to AmsOil 10w-40 synthetic racing oil when he found that oil pressure under racing conditions stayed higher with the synthetic.'


From: 1977 Cycle World: Yoshima’s Business Card | SOHC/4 Owners Club
 
I put in Motul 5W-40.
good stuff been riding all winter here in Japan, 0 and below even and she starts up like a charm every morning and takes me to work.
I did wait until 3000km before puting synthetic in and did 2 oil changes between when I first got it and then. I got 5 liters of the cheapest car oil I could (1,500yen) and did the first change at 200km and the second at 1500km. new filters each time.
then when 3000km came around I put the good stuff in knowing the cheap oil and some hard riding (not so much heavy acceleration but more hard extended deceleration,dropping the clutch and letting the engine wind all the way down from say 7-9k revs) had taken care of the seals and rough edges..
 
Sorry for the bump but i recently noticed that my Honda ASC has been filling in mineral oil for everyone as they never stock FS at all. So ive clocked 10k kms now in over a year and i recently noticed this three days ago when i got my oil and filter changed that they filled in with mineral again.
Question is. Is it too late to switch to FS say after 12-13k kms of mineral oil use? This mineral oil for whatever reason does last long and even though i had clocked 5-6k kms since the last oil change the oil barely had any change in colour so i wont be doubting Honda's prescribed oil change interval in anyway. But my question remains. Is it too late for me to switch to FS at my next oil change at 15k kms?
 
Sorry for the bump but i recently noticed that my Honda ASC has been filling in mineral oil for everyone as they never stock FS at all. So ive clocked 10k kms now in over a year and i recently noticed this three days ago when i got my oil and filter changed that they filled in with mineral again.
Question is. Is it too late to switch to FS say after 12-13k kms of mineral oil use? This mineral oil for whatever reason does last long and even though i had clocked 5-6k kms since the last oil change the oil barely had any change in colour so i wont be doubting Honda's prescribed oil change interval in anyway. But my question remains. Is it too late for me to switch to FS at my next oil change at 15k kms?
Yes, there's no reason you can't.
Are you worried it might be bad to mix Mineral and synthetic?
Old oil comes out new stuff goes in, there may be some left over old oil floating around but it won't be a problem. There's such a thing as semi synthetic oil, that's mineral oil and synthetic in the same bottle.
 
Use whatever you want, your frame will rust and crumble long before your motor will stop from an oil related issue other than having no oil at all. Well, maybe your seat will dry up and crack first.
 
I don't usually read the magazine but an article on motorcycle oil in the current issue of Mototcycle Cruiser magazine was brought to my attention and thought maybe some of the members here may be interested. The article is entitled "the Beginners Guide to Oil" and is in the current (March) issue. It addresses the synthetilc oil issue brought up here.
 
I changed to Mobil 1 4T 10W40 motorcycle oil at 588 miles. Not using synth during the break in is the oldschool way from when synthetic oils first hit the market that is still in vogue. Does anyone still think there is any important ongoing break in going on in a modern engine after 600 miles of normal 30 mile trips?
I just bought a used 2012 with a little over 2k miles. I am a retired auto tech and have owned countless motorcycles. My last bike was a Honda Shadow and I had the local Honda Motorcycle dealer do the service. That bike only had 200 miles on it when I bought it. Dealer used synthetic (not sure what brand) but they told me they used Synthetic all the time.

I just bought two qts of Mobil 1 4T 10w40 and am installing Honda oil filter, gasket and crush washer. I don't hesitate to use Synthetic. I own a Mercedes with 160k miles, Mobil 1 factory installed! I use Mobil one in that because that's what Mercedes uses. Motor is quite and powerful and runs perfect. Also owned a late model Saab and with it's GM engineered Ecotech 4 banger, also uses Mobil 1 from the factory. Friends of mine who drag race cars use Mobil 1. I use it in all my cars and trucks and think it's a great product. No brainer for me. Just don't understand all the overthinking here! (and yes I did research the Mobil 1 4T specs and additives and they have all the right stuff needed for the bikes. JMHO:cool:
 
I changed to synthetic oil at the first change at 600 miles. Mobil 1 4T has all the correct formulation for wet clutches. I work for Mercedes which ship with Mobil 1 in the engines and prohibits the use mineral oil. Ever! Synthetic oil is better. There can be no denying that. Better fuel economy and better engine longevity. It is also widely reported on other forums that motorcyle shift quality is improved with synthetic. The shifting of the Honda didn't change as much but my Ninja250 shifts much better after changing to Mobil 1 4T. Fuel economy went up 2%. The only disadvantage of synthetic is the price but with only 1.5 quarts needed per oil change in a motorcycle, the price difference is insignificant. I recommend switching to Mobil 1 4T at 600 miles/ 1000Km.
Yup, what he said! I use it in all my cars and trucks. My Benz came with from the factory. Saab cars came with Mobil 1 as well. My Dodge truck gained better mileage after switching to synthetic. My 04 Taurus going on 170k and can't hear it run and does not burn oil! Again thank you synthetic.
I am retired auto tech. Once had a Mercedes E320 come into shop with no oil pan due to driver hitting debris in road. He didn't know the oil pan was ripped off the car and DROVE it to the service dept. We ran tests on the engine after replacing oil pump and pan with fresh Mobil 1 and there were NO ISSUES with the engine! Case closed!:D
 
since there are many oil threads i will tack on my question here instead of starting anew

yes more oil questions. but first...yes search nazis i did that
and read most of the threads about the oil debate.

my question did not come up in the searched threads.

there is dyno oil, semi-synthetic and full synthetic.

i understand the merits and benefits and reasonings of both
dyno and full syn oil as that was much discussed in the search but...

what is the point of semi-syn oil? is it just basically a best of both worlds
type of thing?
 
Well, this is my first post here on the boards, so I first want to say hi to you all and thank you for contributing this very informative forum.

I just hit the 8,000 mile marker on my odometer and am finally switching over to synthetic oil. My powerhouse mechanic had recommended me to wait until 8,000 miles before using synthetic oil, so that the engine would have time to get seated well.

Anyhow, I just wanted to contribute what I was told. I now plan on using Mobil 1 4T..

At 8,000 miles now after 5 months and running better than ever!

Cheers!
 
In my opinion it would be more cost effective and better for your engine to use a quality brand non-motorcycle 10-40 mineral oil and change it more often, you could get at least 3 times the oil for the same money. Don't scoff at regular old ( non energy conserving ) oil, I have put hundreds of thousands of miles on various bikes and never used anything but, and have never had an oil related problem.. I have a friend that bought a Kawi FZ-1000 many many years ago brand new and never used anything but regular WalMart 10-40 in the bike, changed it and filter every 4000 miles, is approaching the 170,000 mile mark with no appreciable wear and still within limits compression tests. Really folks, who here plans on ever putting more miles than that on any bike. I think synthetic oil probably does more for the owner psychologically than it does the bike mechanically.
 
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