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i did already 64000KM on cbr250 with full syntetics, rebuilded the engine at 50000KM, almost no wear at all, was using motul 7100
now i using CASTROL power 1 racing, i am not going back to mineral after syntetics did very good job at preventing wear
Why are you rebuilding the engine at only 50,000 km then?
 
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99 percent of bike owners will never attain the milages necessary to reveal the advantages of a synthetic over reasonably scheduled oil changes with your basic 10-40 mineral, if in fact there are actually any such advantages. I think the only plus in the decision to change to synthetics is the illusion of peace of mind that it gives the bike owner, to each his own, whatever makes you happy. I know a guy who has a brand new Corvette, he uses Mobil-1 exclusively and changes it and the filter when the oil starts to appear somewhat dark on the dipstick ( probably around 2K miles ), if this isn't fanatical enough for you I might add that he trades the cars in every year for the new model, there is just no reasoning with that kind of craziness, but it's his money, makes him feel good---what the Hey!
 
I said previously that synthetic is superior, the point I'm trying to get across is the vastly higher price worth paying if you wind up getting the same end result from changing mineral based oil at reasonable intervals ---- unless you are an absolute maniac who constantly abuses and neglects your machine, the answer is probably no. A 50 cent steel cotter pin at the end of your axle is really all you need to keep the axle nut in place, you could probably have one fashioned from Titanium wire that would be infinitely superior to the former in every way possible way, but is it really going to show itself worthy of the extra expense for the average rider?
 
i did already 64000KM on cbr250 with full syntetics, rebuilded the engine at 50000KM, almost no wear at all, was using motul 7100
now i using CASTROL power 1 racing, i am not going back to mineral after syntetics did very good job at preventing wear
I've never heard of anyone rebuilding an engine with "almost no wear at all"... as I recall, one side of your piston skirt was completely gone, and your crankshaft needle bearing blew apart. Hardly what most would consider "almost no wear at all".
 
How Hot is Hot???

I know a guy who has a brand new Corvette, he uses Mobil-1 exclusively and changes it and the filter when the oil starts to appear somewhat dark on the dipstick ( probably around 2K miles.
All Corvette for the past few Years, comes from the Factory with Mobil-1 Installed in the Engine. It is the only Oil, that is specified to be used in the Engine, when changing the oil and filter.

Mobil-1 is specified, due to the higher than Normal, under hood Temperature.
 
I've never heard of anyone rebuilding an engine with "almost no wear at all"... as I recall, one side of your piston skirt was completely gone, and your crankshaft needle bearing blew apart. Hardly what most would consider "almost no wear at all".
I would be glad to see someone with 50000 km opening the same engine.
I saw some of this engines in my country which lived only 20000-30000 km on semi synthetic motul 5000

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Searcher, I was aware that Corvettes come new with Mobil -1 in the crankcase and that it is specified in the manual, that's not the fanaticism I was referring to. My point was that this guy not only changed the oil and filter ever 2000 miles ( with Mobil-1 ), but he only keeps the cars for one year and then trades in for the next year's model---that's a Fanatic! If I was getting a new Vette every year I'd NEVER change the freakin oil.
 
Sorry about the Boo-Boo!!!

Searcher, I was aware that Corvettes come new with Mobil -1 in the crankcase and that it is specified in the manual, that's not the fanaticism I was referring to. My point was that this guy not only changed the oil and filter ever 2000 miles ( with Mobil-1 ), but he only keeps the cars for one year and then trades in for the next year's model---that's a Fanatic! If I was getting a new Vette every year I'd NEVER change the freakin oil.
You've heard the Ole Saying, "Keeping up with the Jones's".

I would guess that he was one of the Jones's.

Lots of money and able to afford the latest on his Wish List.
.
 
I asked my dad about this, and he said he's run car oil in his '81 Honda CB900 for 32 years and never had a problem with the clutch.
Yes, but car oil has changed over the past 32 years, and now contains less of things that our motorcycles need (like zinc, I think).
 
Yes, but car oil has changed over the past 32 years, and now contains less of things that our motorcycles need (like zinc, I think).
Exactly. I ran car oil back-in-the-day also, but not any more.

I've stated this numerous times before, but...

Current auto oils are mandated low levels of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus) because the former levels eventually plugged the catalyst. The new levels are safe only if you have roller rockers/lifters - as current auto engines do.

The CBR is the only current cycle engine I know that has them, so auto oils won't cause the same type of cam/rocker damage in the CBR that they will in a typical cycle engine - but it's still not a good choice. If you use a 30-grade auto oil in the CBR you will have an oil with Friction Modifiers that can eventually build-up on the clutch plates and cause slipping.

A better low-cost option is diesel oils like Rotella and Delvac in 30-grade. Diesel oils are not required to have low ZDDP levels, and don't have Friction Modifiers, so they are a much better choice than auto oils for cycle engines.
 
I have been convinced over the years of the advantages of synthetic oil, backed up by studies that showed after 100k miles very little wear in the engines they tested. Synthetics hold their lubricating properties better than mineral oil. Minerals aren't bad at all, there are some outstanding oils out there including the honda 4 cycle. I used to run Mobil 1 car oil in my new 1991 Honda 750 Nighthawk. Nowadays I use the Mobil 1 4T racing oil. Much better for clutch and gears than the car oils.
 
Hi, I'm from Colombia and here the climate is tropical, in fact the lowest temperature is 10 ° c, then it is good to use a 15W50 or problems be presented? Thanks
I posted this in the other section where you asked -

Not sure the temp that converts to in Fahrenheit.

Don't use that heavy of an oil (50-weight) in the CBR. Use an oil that's 30-weight when hot.

If you can get Rotella T5 10W-30 or a similar diesel oil, I would use that.
 
In Columbia I would use 10w-40 , it will work well in your temp range. Any oil for a modern motorcycle without friction modifiers is fine, if you use cheap oil just change it more often. As noted above deisel oil will also be fine as it has great cleaning property's and handles high load & heat very well. As for mineral, semi- synthetic or full synthetic it's up to you how much you want to spend, all will work.
 
In Columbia I would use 10w-40 , it will work well in your temp range. Any oil for a modern motorcycle without friction modifiers is fine, if you use cheap oil just change it more often. As noted above deisel oil will also be fine as it has great cleaning property's and handles high load & heat very well. As for mineral, semi- synthetic or full synthetic it's up to you how much you want to spend, all will work.
I second this. The hot temps will like the 40 weight oil, and your bike will too. 30 weight will be fine as well, but the 40 will offer a bit more high RPM protection in the heat if you ride that way.

And most certainly do NOT use 50 weight. Way too thick for this little thumper. :)
 
Use a good quality synthetic or synthetic-blend 10W-30 (like Rotella T5) and hot temps aren't even a concern. With a water cooled engine the ambient temps aren't really an issue anyway. Synthetic oil can handle extreme oil temps without degrading or breaking down like conventional oil.

Lighter oil is almost always better than heavier oil - it moves through the engine easier and carries heat away quicker.

Aufitt was racing in very hot weather using GN4 (yuk!), and the engine survived. He eventually went to a synthetic 10W-40...after some prodding...but he is one of the few that might benefit from it. Almost everyone else can get excellent protection in all temps from a quality oil like Rotella T5 or cycle-specific synthetic Ester 10W-30 from Redline, Motul, etc. if you really feel you need maximum protection.
 
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