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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Motor Oil Myths and Facts
I was curious about my oil color because I have been using a high-end synthetic for only about 1,000 miles and the oil is already dirty. I found this to ease my stress and felt that it needed to be shared. Dark oil, under the right circumstances, is a good thing!


Tag: Dirty oil
 

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All true....for cars.

Most cars do not cruise at 6k
Cars have plain bearings with imbedding properties, ball bearings have no imbedding capabilites.
Cars do not run their clutches in engine oil.
Most important, cars do not have transmission gears shearing apart the oil's long chain molecules.
 

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I don't worry about oil at all. As long as you change it when you're supposed to, use the right oil, check the level once a week or so and top it up if it ever needs it, you won't go far wrong. The only colour change that I can think of that you really need to worry about is if your oil goes a milky colour. This would indicate that coolant is getting into it, meaning either a blown head gasket or water getting into the oil from somewhere else. ;)
 

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I don't worry about oil at all. As long as you change it when you're supposed to, use the right oil, check the level once a week or so and top it up if it ever needs it, you won't go far wrong. The only colour change that I can think of that you really need to worry about is if your oil goes a milky colour. This would indicate that coolant is getting into it, meaning either a blown head gasket or water getting into the oil from somewhere else. ;)


Or it gets a heavy smell of gasoline, which means you have a leaking injector...this will strip lubrication off of everything and deep six the motor...usually a rod or main bearing...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All true....for cars.

Most cars do not cruise at 6k
Cars have plain bearings with imbedding properties, ball bearings have no imbedding capabilites.
Cars do not run their clutches in engine oil.
Most important, cars do not have transmission gears shearing apart the oil's long chain molecules.
Thanks for input. Does the oil getting dark mean something else for bikes then? I would imagine that the same idea about suspending particles still applies, although with added properties in the oil for clutch function as well.
 

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The soot, or combustion by product issue would be the same. But this does not take into account particles from clutch and trans wear. Nor would a discussion of car oil consider the higher loads and shear forces in a MC engine. Also anyone who has drained oil will notice that it smells different than new oil, this is largly due to accumulated acids. As I have stated befor on this forum, I made my living for years repairing motorcycles, I have seen results of small particles of debri on internal engine parts. I know owners like to reference the owners manual intervals but this makes the assumption that the manufactures are free to exactly what is best for the machine, sadly this is no longer true. Manufactures are under increasing government pressure to reduce resource consumption and hazardous waste generation. You will no doubt have peopel say that they use extended intervals and never have a problem, but what they are really saying is that they have never had a failure. Without regular compression, leakdown, dyno tests and oil analysis how would they know if their engine is wearing a few percent faster than it otherwise would. I am not selling oil and everyone is free to do what they feel is best, but I can tell you I would never and most of the experienced mechanics I know would never run oil to the listed intervals.
 

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So GPZ550, going on your experience what is a good change interval? (note - genuine question absent of malice and sarcasm) I change mine every approx 4000km (2500mile)
using a quality motorcycle dyno oil. My bike is run pretty hard i would say. On a nice summer day 8+hrs of solid running time is not unusual. Much of it at hwy speeds and 5k to 8.5k rpm. So with that in mind is my change interval good for prolonged engine life?
 

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I don't worry about oil at all. As long as you change it when you're supposed to, use the right oil, check the level once a week or so and top it up if it ever needs it, you won't go far wrong. The only colour change that I can think of that you really need to worry about is if your oil goes a milky colour. This would indicate that coolant is getting into it, meaning either a blown head gasket or water getting into the oil from somewhere else. ;)
I'll agree. Honda built about 26 million engines in 2012. No offense to anyone here, but I'll be shocked if anyone else besides Honda has any meaningful information on what is required to maintain a 2012 or 2013 CBR250R.
 

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The oil in my dirt bike gets changed after a full day of fun, that's 8 hrs of flogging. It gets changed if it needs it or not & has never once let me down .
The 250rr is done every 3000km or 6 months
The 250r repsol hasn't had an oil change yet but will be done in April regardless of km
The car gets done every 6 months or 5000km
Some might say its a waste of money but all my toys look new inside ( yes I've looked ) no sludge or any other crap, yes if you add up the cost of servicing over 10 years it adds up bu as a mechanic I've seen plenty of people bring in crap that won't run because it hasn't been serviced.
At the end of the day I make money if people do service their toys & even more if they don't , you choose ;)
 

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Oil gets dark over time from oxidation, if it gets dark really quick after changing then maybe your previous drain interval was too long or the engine already dirty and the new oil cleans that up (getting dark from old junk in the process).

If the latter is the case it's better to shorten the interval and get the stuff out.

Also good to stick to dedicated 4T oil with JASO MA (or MA1 or MA2) next to the API S. specification. The majority of oil companies specifically develop oils for our bikes so that gears and clutch are evaluated too. This will require some adjustment from plain Car oils.
It's not that those oils won't work but wear can be higher or gear pitting can occur and clutch performance can suffer (very annoying).

Richard
 

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Guys, I changed my oil at the end of last season and stored the bike. I don't plan on changing it till the end of this season. I maybe ride 2000kms a season. My question is after I changed my oil, I started it and let it cycle through the engine, then turned it off and noticed the level lowered.....I get it, to be expected due to the new filter needing to absorb some. I added a little more, levelled the bike and checked the window again. Perfect, near the top of the full line. However, when I turn the bike on, the oil in the window tends to disappear. Is this normal when the bike is running? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
:confused:

Thanks!
 

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Guys, I changed my oil at the end of last season and stored the bike. I don't plan on changing it till the end of this season. I maybe ride 2000kms a season. My question is after I changed my oil, I started it and let it cycle through the engine, then turned it off and noticed the level lowered.....I get it, to be expected due to the new filter needing to absorb some. I added a little more, levelled the bike and checked the window again. Perfect, near the top of the full line. However, when I turn the bike on, the oil in the window tends to disappear. Is this normal when the bike is running? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
:confused:

Thanks!
Yes it's normal.

The only way to get the correct oil level is to have the engine warm, turn it off, and wait 3 minutes for some amount of oil from the top-end to drain back into the sump - and of course make sure the cycle is balanced perfectly level (not on the side-stand).
 
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