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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this one has been clawing my head with major ''how the f...'s'' for hours now. Here's the gist:

I got a new Xenon bulb from my dad, actually 3 Xenon bulbs with their own ballast kits, and decided, hey what's better than an LED? A free HID! And hurriedly went for an install. It's a bulb with a 12v/35W ballast. The bulb has a rotating metal housing for the highbeam setting.

Now here's the fun part...

I plugged it in to the cbr250r headlight plug (green, blue and white wires). And... it worked! Or so it seems. The light turned on, bright and definitely way better than the Halogen one I previously had. Using the upper highbeam signaling switch the metal housing in the bulb rotated, it worked! And then the strangest thing happened. I press the toggle high beam switch and... the light turns off, like a ghost... How??? Un-toggle and the light turns back on again!

So for now it is a strange upgrade, the light is still worth keeping considering what an upgrade it is, and if I ever really need highbeam I can just use the signal button, but how the hell does the toggle make the light turn off? If anyone can figure out the mystery of this one gets 100 internet cookies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Before anyone asks, i've tried using different combinations of ballasts and bulbs with the exact same result, iv'e tried rewiring and even said **** it and connected two positives out of spite (rip fuse+ hey now I know how to fix a fuse with wire in an emergency)
 

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  • The main light switch always connects only one lighting type, if the low beam is on then the high beam is off, and vice versa.
  • The passing button connects the high beam light, while the low beam light is still on (which causes a heat load, therefore it is forbidden to drive with a passing button that is constantly pressed, just to get additional lighting).
  • The passing button has no effect when the main lighting switch is already in high light mode.
In your case there are two other electricity consumers:
1. Main bulb.
2.
Type of electric motor. What kind of electric motor? What makes the electric motor to stop? Or how does the electromechanical mechanism work there?

If we understand what's going on in your gadget Xenon bulbs it might be easier to guess why it goes off when the passing button is pressed. Maybe you made a short video for us? Or leave us a link to your gadget? Thanks.
 

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I press the toggle high beam switch and... the light turns off, like a ghost... How??? Un-toggle and the light turns back on again!
I am guessing that you activate a protection circuit witch is on the electronic card of the motor (to prevent the motor from receiving another movement command in the same direction).
The motor and the bulb sit on the same power line.
 

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Also how long does it take for the motor to change position?
 

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Here's a video of the Issue: LINK
OK nice. But I'm missing in the video, for interest and curiosity, a vid of what the motor moves that causes the shift of the light from high to low.
Back to your question, I thought your electrical connection looked different. I am immediately attaching two charts... just a moment:
Handwriting Rectangle Slope Font Line
Handwriting Slope Font Rectangle Line
 
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In my opinion, two commands in the opposite direction direction activate electronic protection that causes automatic disconnection (automatic fuse that pops out).
 

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It should be 2/3 (high) and 1 (low).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That would make sense, so 3 electrical paths inside the bulb.

I always thought it to be 2, especially considering this lightbulb uses a rotating "dish" to activate high beam (spreading the refracted light, it doesn't change the amount of light the bulb produces).

I tried showing the mecanism in the video but the Xenon is too bright and you can't see the actual dish rotating.

Basically the noise you hear when it switches from low to high in the video is a dish rotating clockwise around the Xenon pocket until it's under it instead of on top of it which changes the refraction of the light "upwards".

This mean that high should effectively be (rotating dish + light ON). In the signaling step this happens, but in the toggle button step only (rotating dish) happens (you can hear the noise of the dish rotating even as the light turns on and off), that's what that cool mechanical clunk noise is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I believe when we set up the connection between the bulb and the ballast there were 8 wires. 2 for the rotating dish and 2 for the light (as it was tested during troubleshooting) on each the ballast and the bulb.

The ballast then connects directly into the triple headlight socket (blue white and green wired) through an adaptor.
 

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Your wiring is incorrect. It could be that the purchased connector (A 3-pin connector that simulates the connector found on a standard light bulb) is wired differently than what we need at CBR250R???
Starts at 2:56
 

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Don't connect wires randomly, try to figure out how it works, then go fix the wires. You need a little more patience.
 
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To change the position of the 3 pins in the connector you don't need to cut any wire. There is a plastic pin that needs to be moved inside the black plastic hous and the contact comes out of its black housing along with the wire soldered to it. Take out all three, and put them back into the black plastic hous in the correct order.
 

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You might be trying to get it to work without the controller (just the blaster), because you need the controller too.
 
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