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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to hold a shim with tweezers and it bolted away, sounding like it clinked into the engine. Well fook me. First time in a lot of valve adjustments over the years -guess it was bound to happen.

Looks like if I take off the clutch cover I can see if it came to rest under the camchain: any other tips (other than don't drop the shim next time)?
 

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I'd double check the floor and such before opening up the engine. The shim could have just bounced off of the engine.

I use a strong magnet to remove shims and re-install with my fingers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have the magnet on a stick and did multiple fishing expeditions around the head and down the chain-well to no avail. Presuming it went down a hole but dunno which one yet.

Now that the lighting is better going to search the floor again, but I think I heard the sounds of steel on aluminum as the event unfolded. I fear the worst.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Found it. Got the clutch cover off and there it was, on the forward-most shelf, under where the water pump would be.

Cheers all! I got some help to take the tank all the way off (just pulling it up and back wasn't enough for me and my meathooks) so I'm back in the game. For now.

Gonna leave the clutch cover off for the time being tho. ?
 

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Good for you. Take your time reassembling the engine and remeasuring the valve clearance. I always check the clearance again after adjusting. I call it a safety check, so I'm sure that I didn't screw anything up.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Absolutely. My latest (first) pass at calculation was either clearly wrong or my modified feeler gauges weren't feeler gauging per my instructions.

So I'ma try it again this evening whilst the kids do homework.

CBR250R: Dream to ride and operate, nightmare to work on. I used to do Kawasaki 750 4s with shim under bucket that I'd have done well before this. If I can think of a way to chuck the plastics and put a not-stupid QD for the fuel tank I'm going to execute.Coz this is maddening.
 

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It does suck to do; but, it only has to be done every 16,000 miles. The worst part is getting all the way in there and finding they're all within spec. "Welp geez! You could have just told me you were fine before I dug a hole to China!"

I actually considered "upgrading" (although briefly then came to my senses) to a CTX700 for that very reason; still fuel efficient, torquey, but has screw-type shims and all you really have to do is drop the radiator and you can get to pretty much everything at the top end because of how low and forward slung the engine is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It does suck to do; but, it only has to be done every 16,000 miles. The worst part is getting all the way in there and finding they're all within spec. "Welp geez! You could have just told me you were fine before I dug a hole to China!"
TRUTH.

I'm over my snit. She runs solid, doesn't clatter now and is as fun to ride as I recall, even commuting.

I was a 'little bike' guy when I started back in the late 70s and I imagine what it would have been to have such a competent bike available back then, or at that stage in my riding. I had to upsize because thats where the brakes and solid frames and all were, not because I wanted power. To be able to buy a solid rig like these things right out of the gate? I'd never look for anything bigger. These bikes are the shiznit.
 
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