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Discussion Starter #1
If you remove the rider seat, you can see both fuse box locations.



The fuse box contains 6, 10 amp fuses. 5 are in use and one is a spare. The flip top on the fuse box is labeled for each fuse.



To find the main fuse, you have to lift the rubber cap and gain access to the red plastic connector. Take note, the green fuse in the rubber holder (shown, pictured bottom) is a spare.





The easiest way I could find to access the main fuse was to remove the bodywork, gas tank and air box. The air box is very tight to the main fuse holder.



Squeeze the tabs in on the red plastic connector and remove it from the block. NOW you can find the MAIN FUSE. It is well hidden. See the main fuse and the spare in this picture?



What a PITA the main fuse is to get to! :eek: :D
 

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Discussion Starter #2
If you hooked up the battery terminals backwards, hooked up jumper cables backwards, shorted a metal object across the terminals, shorted the power/ignition wires on the bike, tried to start your bike off of a running automobile, or severely ****************************** up something electrical, I would check the main fuse (and other fuses) first. The FIRST step in troubleshooting ANY electrical problem is to check the fuses.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Glad I could contribute. I took the pictures with my cell phone camera so they are not the greatest, sorry.
 

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Glad I could contribute. I took the pictures with my cell phone camera so they are not the greatest, sorry.
Pics are fine...don't think you were trying for something to hang in a museum...lol...Thanks for the info...I'd never bothered to look for them...figured it would be obvious..it wasn't...thanks again.
 

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It is hard to believe that that is the best location the designers could find for the main. It is nice that they give us a spare fuse, but it is hardly a roadside repair.

I can't wait to check this out when I remove my airbox for my shock swap.
Relocation would be nice, but with that harness on both sides of it, I am doubtful.
 

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If I was in that far into it at home, I would get down and dirty and splice extra lengths of wire of suitable gauge into both ends of the harness, and get that fuse box the hell outta there!
 

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If I was in that far into it at home, I would get down and dirty and splice extra lengths of wire of suitable gauge into both ends of the harness, and get that fuse box the hell outta there!
Yeah why they don't make them easier accessible is beyond me. Think they'd rather you just take your bike to the dealer when you have an issue so they can take all your $$.

Great topic though, glad to see it bumped again. May need it some day!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The 10amp fuse box was not hard to get to.
If you can find a better way to get the main fuse out than removing the air box post it up. I never took the chance to read the service book, how do they suggest replacing the fuse?
 

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I replaced the main fuse without removing anything besides the seat. It can be done, there's just a lot of friction. Patience, and wiggling. Lever one side up, then the other.
 

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I replaced the main fuse without removing anything besides the seat. It can be done, there's just a lot of friction. Patience, and wiggling. Lever one side up, then the other.
I just removed the airbox cover and put a butter knife on one side of the fuse cover, wedged it up one side and did the same for the other. Worked like a charm with minimal damage.
 

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I replaced that main fuse, By removing the battery, Removing the main fuse box from its rubber holder and turning it sideways, using plyers to under extremely hard clip.. took me about 10-15 mins of fighting it.. but I sure didnt remove all the parts.. :p Not saying my way is the right way.. might have been mickey mouse but I got it done :D
 
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