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Twisted Throttle Power Hub Install

6572 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  mattaiken
After looking at all the accessories I wanted to install and my need for everything to be neat and orderly, I decided to pick up the Power Hub. I'm a sucker for well thought out and designed products and this one does not disappoint. After looking for different places to install it I finally decided to lose some space under the seat for a few reasons. Firstly, the unit has to be reasonably accessible for adding accessories and changing out fuses if needed. Secondly, there was really nowhere else to put it because of the limited space anywhere else on the bike and weather considerations. With this in mind I then needed to place the unit in the compartment.

I know that I'll never need to carry a U-lock and that I still need to carry the tools. I decided that the rear right side of the compartment would be best and I would just need to modify the compartment a little. Using a flat razor i trimmed off the mounting bracket for the U-lock.

The Power Hub can be hard mounted or velcro mounted into place. I decided I would rather not drill holes through the compartment and that if I velcro mounted the unit it would be easier to add to or service if needed.

I then put the mounting base plate on to double check the clearance around the unit for the power and accessory wires.

The reason I oriented the unit such was because the way the wires will come into the unit it will afford me enough slack that when I need to work on it I can un-velcro it and put it on the seat for easy access.
With the unit positioned, I then needed to hook up the power wires for the unit. This consists of the negative, constant power and switched power. The Power Hub has a cool setup which allows you to hook up 6 different fused accessories and depending how you put in the fuse, have them either have constant power or switched power. The negative wire just bolts to the negative (black) post on the battery. The positive is hooked to the positive (red) post on the battery. The positive has an inline 30 Amp fuse built into it and as a precaution while I was hooking up and routing the wires, I took out the fuse so if the power line accidentally touched the frame it would not arc. I also made sure the key was out of the bike so as to not have any power on. The last wire to hook up was the switched power. There are many places to get this from but I was looking for something in the vicinity of the battery so as to keep a very neat install and not have wires running all over the bike. The wire I decided on was the headlight power that ran into the fuse box next to the battery.

The way the tap hooks up to the wire you need to position it so it does not put any strain on the wire when fuse block is reinstalled. I also ran the power and switched power lines in such a way so that the wires would not come into contact with the battery mounting bracket where they could potentially wear through the insulation and short out due to vibration.

I drilled a small hole in the compartment wall so I could zap strap the 30 Amp fuse in place. Then I drilled a hole in the front right of the compartment at the bottom so I could run the 3 power wires into the Power Hub. After positioning the wires under the ABS wiring, I shrink wrapped the wires together to keep everything neat and clean and also to give them a little more protection where they went through the compartment.

I then hooked up the power lines to the unit, installed the 30 Amp fuse, tested the power and installed the cover.

I now have everything in place to hook up my heated grips, lighter plug for charging my cell phone, and battery tender.
I hope this helps anyone who was looking into this unit.
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What a great installation sequence and photos - thank you Jme250RA!
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