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311 Posts
Call me when you get your bike back. I have some things I would like for you to try.
Hi Jett Tuning,

1) Where you able to stop Ari's race 250R from stalling ????
2) What is your theory/hypothesis on the origin of this dilemma.

Thanks for chiming in with your expert opinion. The doctor is in the house :cool:

3,226 Posts
seems that sendler is on the right track with ecu etc, going by my own
cut-out events, members reports here, plus similar situations experienced
and reported by members of other specific bike forums [other brands/models]..

while cut-out free many months now [despite riding the same route
2 to 4 times daily] she has cut out twice now in the last month or so
same situation; accellerate up my uphill street, only about 50m,
still in 2nd gear [could change up but about to stop], throttle off,
clutch in, glide into a tight arc - when it stalled twice still in the arc -
[when i then guide her back into the kerb to park]..

last time i had the presence of mind [from this forum influences]
to immediately check the tacho, which dropped to about half
way between 10 and 15 marks.. ie, engine still running,
but only just hanging on at those revs, when i used throttle
to keep it running.. ie, it wasnt a clean cut-out
rather a drop in revs to below its customary 1500rpm idle..

my hot cut-outs [as detailed here] were clean cut-outs
[or so they seemed] with immediate shut down of
engine.. without past ecu experience they seemed
like a sudden loss of ignition, like that..

mine is due for its 6mth service now, so will mention this
to the mechanic who seems competent and trustworty
[action m/cycles sydney] and ask for his opinion etc..

the only thing i had changed after the cut-out events
[10 or so] with fairly clear relationships to rapid accell
and then decel [esp involving a steep hill or soon after it]
was to adopt the practice [from advice this forum]
of always allowing her to drop from 2krpm to 1500rpm
idle [on the dial], every time..
[after buying her slightly used - 600km - and not getting
the owners manual with the bike], thus start/warm-up
was my old habit from past hondas, which didnt
always include a patient wait till she dropped to
the steady idle at 1500rpm..

on tolerances [someone mentioned], on another site [vulcan?]
a member who seemed conversant with ecu design etc,
stated something like; only tiny variations in tolerances
between ecu can make the difference between
this or that engine response [context stalling]..

2 Posts
Here's a fix that works:

First start up your bike then hit the kill switch when its idling where you want.

Then remove the right side fairing and disconnect the IACV plug. ( if you don't want to go to the trouble of lifting up the gas tank you can reach in there with two steak skewers and pop the plug off )

This keeps the idle air passageway fixed to a single open position and prevents the occasional stalls due to a closed throttle AND closed IACV.

I set mine to idle at 2000RPM

Side effects include:
Less intense engine braking
You can leave it in 1st gear, close the throttle and it will cruise around without stalling
Throttle feels like less of an on/off switch
You get a check engine light
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